Aussie048

Onto the thickstuff.  I have learned over and over that reading and studying only take you so far - it is the creation of an accurate 3D model that really brings things to life.  And this was reinforced again here.
 
I had never really associated the thickstuff planks with anything other than longitudinal support.  As I once again read over the available material it finally clicked:  The thickstuff planks correspond with the futtock joins of the frames.  This had escaped me primarily because half of these joins were never visible being on the other side of the frame.  It makes perfect sense and brings additional order.
 

 
Now I understand the ramifications of how I defined the frame joins at the beginning.  At first glance I would say my frames have their opposing joins too close.  However, I will invoke my American made cargo ship edict which lets me bypass all normal building standards.  I have learned something I did not know before.
 
The hull is at its widest near the forward part of this cross section and slightly reduced near the aft.  I decided not to reflect this change in the thickstuff planks themselves, keeping them straight and rectangular.  
 
The lines penciled on the internal hull represent the berth and gun deck locations.  Next up is the limber and garboard strakes.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
mark

The task for the day was a Keel Rabbet.  The difference for me is that this rabbet is more than for looks.  I actually need a garboard strake to fit into the rabbet and given the cross section you get to view the results on two ends.
 
So....off I went.  I did drill through the keel, the frames and partway through the keelson at each frame.  Four of these holes where then drilled through the false keel.  Adding trunnels through the whole assembly made it very stiff.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty happy with the results.  Now I get to start working on stuff that will for the most part be seen!
 
mark

It has been some banner time in the workshop the last couple of days.  I was boresighted on getting past the frames so this afternoon I was back at it, this time for the internal fairing.  To borrow a phrase "Say hello to my little friends"
 

 
Cabinet scrapers are very effective in removing wood on the internal hull.  Supplement that with some final sanding and you can do a lot without a lot of sawdust flying about.  More evidence of my activity is the current state of my rough worktable:
 

 
Definitely needs some cleanup tomorrow, but a tidy workshop does not show progress!  At the end of the day I can stand back and look at my hull with keel and keelson on (but not yet attached).  Still need another hour or so of refinement but I am happy with the progress and I can see the finish for this part of the project:
 

 
Tomorrow probably switch to the Lady Anne for awhile.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks Marc, very useful

Here is picture



If you enlarge area near chain, you can see some square structure

Interesting.  I'm trying to find it in old photos.
I did notice that the restored cutty in your photos has the foot rope attached to eyes on the jib boom ring.  Those eyes are not in old photos, so they must have added it.  Was it originally there instead of beside the bowsprit as it was for the past 50 years? who knows. The fun of history.
 
This photo isn't great but you can see that the eyes aren't there.  The support doesn't look like it is there (could be painted black in the photo).  It isn't on Campells plans or in Longridge's book.
 
I also noticed that the photo you posted show the jib boom guys set up with what look like deadeyes.  Old photos have them set up as hearts and lanyards as does Campbell's plans.  Interesting to see the differences.  No telling what she was actually like back in 1870
 

Jibstays properly installed. Come on Constructo...get with the program

I've got the jibstays half done. I knocked my model crooked in its cradle so it looks like she's charging on a larboard tack.

I'm stopping rigging the square sails while I rectify the Constructo omission of not telling me I needed jibstays. I should have known better since I sailed for several decades on modern fore & aft rigged boats. They all had jibstays.
 
I placed a rubber absorbent mat under my work area to "catch" fallen tiny hanks. I dropped most of them and it caught all but one. Goodness knows where all these little dropped parts disappear to.
 
Now that the brass hanks are on the jibs...I shall attempt to install jibstays.

Here I'm practicing making a splice to a stay. The rigging plan calls for most braces to be rigged with a block and a line spliced to a shroud.

This will be the last posting for the build log. I was able to get the ship installed into the display case. The Connie is now in her berth. I cut the pedestal out of the spar material. I chose to leave the back side rough. It still shows the wear as well as paint from when it was part of a spar on the mighty ship.
 

 
I spent quite a bit of time researching LED lighting. The top of the case was only ⅞" thick and most of it is glass. I wanted LED lighting that would accurately produce the colors of the ship and be bright enough to allow everything to be seen well. The high CRI led's from Flexfire worked perfectly. They also do not produce much heat which is important in the contained environment of the display.
 
I had a number of goals when designing the case. I wanted black walnut to match that in the ship. I wanted to minimize the size of the surrounding frame to maximize the view of the ship. I wanted a glass top, and wanted the case lit. 
 
By utilizing ¼" tempered glass, I was able to use the strength of the glass to augment the rigidity of the frame. The glass is glued in with a GE Silicone household glue. This provides the holding power required and the give needed to allow for any seasonal movement. I also used low iron glass which is the most optically pure on the market.
 
The display case bottom contains a hidden compartment that is large enough to hold the full set of original plans, printouts of the CAD drawings I used for the ship's boats, and a full bound copy of the build log. 
 
It has been a fun and rewarding build. Now on to my next ship, a scratch build POF of the Brig Eagle. Thank you all for all of the encouragement, technical and mental support during this build.
 

Here is the remade mullion of the correct size:
 

 
I trimmed the ends off the mullions and fit it into the window opening, then glued it in. After it dried, I removed the paper from the back of the window, which was easy because it was only glued to the outer frame and I could scrape off any excess glue with an X-Acto knife. I then sanded the front and back by sliding the window over a sheet of sand paper, medium on both sides and fine on the front. And here it is in the opening:
 

 
Here is the first window I made:
 

 
And the rest so far:
 

 

 
I am finishing up the last window now. I am going to paint these white to match the white trim that I will be putting on the transom. I am pretty please with how these came out, as I have had trouble making similar pieces in the past. The paper backing was the trick for me for these, so I figured I'd share the technique.

Thanks guys. Luckily Captain it was only five pintles and gudgeons. The sixth strap is just on the rudder itself so it was breeze to install.
 
Onto the transom. I started by making the window frames and mullions (I think that is what the inner frames are called?). I decided to make the outer frames from 1/16" square wood, as I knew I would have problems using 1/32". I did use 1/32 by 1/16" for the mullions though. I hope the outer frames don't look too thick. I took pictures through the whole process to document how I made them which I will provide here.
 
Since I am completely going away from the plans for the transom, I started by making manila templates of each window opening. I made sure that these were a good fit and did not leave gaps in the openings.
 

 
I then cut the four outer frames and fit them into the window opening.
 

 

 
I then traced the template onto a piece of paper and cut it out to use as a plan for the window. I cut the top flush with the top edge so that I could push this up to the edge of the metal tray that I used to glue these up. This tray comes with magnets to hold parts while gluing and a lip all the way around to push parts up to. I like to use Lego pieces in the tray because they have nicer square edges than the magnets. I removed the outer frame pieces from the opening and put them in the tray on top of the plan. I then glued each piece to the next and to the paper itself. This helped me get the frames square and held them together better for the next steps.
 

 
While that was drying, I made the mullions. I first traced the template of the window opening onto a piece of paper and divided the sides into thirds. (I bet a bunch of you are screaming at this point - Tom stop! That isn't right!).
 

 
I then transferred those positions to four pieces of wood for the inner frames.
 

 
For the first window. I filed notches half way through the strips at those locations, so that they would fit together like a grating. For the rest of the windows, I got brave and used the Brynes saw with a slitting disk to make the notches, which turned out to be a much better way to go. I am using that saw more and more now that I can see what it can do.
 

 
I used a metal clip as a holder for the strips and held two at a time, which ensured that the notches would be the same for both pieces. I set the fence the correct distance from the blade and made sure the two ends were even to run along the fence. I also made sure the strips were flat to the saw table and not the clip riding on the table.
 
OK, here is how it came out after gluing them together.
 

 
I put that aside to dry and took the outer frame off the gluing jig, trimmed the excess paper from edges, and fit it to the opening. I had to do a little sanding of the edges to get a nice fit, but this is where the paper backing really helped hold it together as I sanded. And here it is in the opening.
 

 
And here is where all you guys screaming above were waiting for. I went to fit the mullions to the outer frame and said _ Oh s**t !
 

 
I forgot to allow for the outer frame when dividing the window opening into thirds.
 
So, I added the size of the outer frames to the paper and then divided the remaining area into thirds and remade the mullions. Now, this would not be so bad, except I did the same thing on the second window! Duh!
 
Continued in the next post...
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tim - I like your idea of using Styrene too. I think that should work nicely.
 
Thanks everyone for the likes.
 
I did complete the rudder, for now, and attached it to the hull. I am going to wait to install the rudder chains until later so I don't catch anything on them while I am working on the transom.
 
Here are a couple of tests for simulating the bolt heads in the pintles and gudgeons. I tried dots of black paint and dots of CA. I ended up going with the CA after all, as it really did have the look I was going after - subtle but there. The black was much too pronounced to me.
 

 

 
Here is the competed rudder with the pintles glued on and the simulated bolt heads added. I used medium CA to glue the pintles on and in a few of them I had to go back later and add more glue to get the ends to stay down. I found that I could use thin CA with a narrow tube on the bottle, and get just enough on the edge of the pintle to wick into the joint. I used metal binder clips as clamps for the pintles.
 

 

 
Then it was time to add the gudgeons.  I added these one at a time from the bottom up, since the bottom three where pretty much straight, not crazy bent like the top two. I used the rudder to get them at the right height and angle, but I had to make sure that I could get the pintle to fit over the gudgeon with both the rudder and gedgeon held at the same angle as on the ship, otherwise I would not be able to remove the rudder after gluing each one on. Getting the top two gudgeons to fit nicely took a while and they are not exactly right, but I can live with them. These were especially hard because there is no good way to clamp them, so I mostly just did each side separately and held them with some piece of wood by hand until the (medium) CA dried. You can see in the picture below that I used a thin strip of masking tape to mark the height and angle of the gudgeon before I glued it on so that when I applied the glue I could get it in roughly the right place and still have time to place the rudder in this gudgeon and the previously added gudgeons to get the final location. A couple of times I had to go back and reapply the glue because I didn't get the rudder in place in time.
 

 
And here is the final result, with the CA spots to simulate the bolt heads on the gudgeons and chain iron too. What is hard to see in these pictures is that I also added a piece of manila folder that I cut to fit over the rudder hole in the counter with a hole in it for the rudder post, to simulate a rudder coat. I slipped this over the rudder post before the rudder was installed and then slid it to the counter and glued it on with white glue, then painted it black. It covered the odd size rudder hole nicely. I tried other things to make the rudder coat out of, like foil and even Sculpey, but I liked the simple look of the folder material the best.
 

 

 

 
Now it is time to work on the transom, so framing the windows will be next.

I got some shots of the cannon on deck, this is my trial cannon so the finish is not what I will end up with. The cannon will be black.
 

 
The eyebolts are too large, and I may make the back wheels a little smaller yet.
The cannon looks to be a tight squeeze next to the hull, but other viewing angles it looks smallish.
Still playing with cannons for now and working on the rig to attach them to the deck.
Pumps are still to be done yet.

Jack, Frank, Geoff and all of you....thanks for the support & help. 

To demonstrate hornet's post above, you can't get this kind of effect with paint (unless you're a VERY good painter) :
 

 

 
 Danny

I try not to, but wood is forgiving medium for fixing mistakes.
 
Not in my other Profession, 25 years of tattooing and that medium does not like it when you make mistakes, it complains.

I know I said it would probably be a few days before I updated this again, but I finished the new ship's base today.  I still will be adding the poly/oil to it along with the display case. Anyway, since I was updating, I thought I could also show the case after the first two coats of the poly. It really brings out the colors and wood grain. Also, there is a shot of the glass waiting for the case to be finished.
 
I also started working on the LED lights today. I wired the power supply to the controller and tested it.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Another small update;
 
I have been working on the beams for the top deck and the knees for the gun deck.
 
There sure is a lot of knees, this is only some of them.
I work out there shape in illustrator (it is good for keeping measurements consistent)
I print these and stick them to 2 pieces of lime wood that I have edge joined (I do not have correct size wood so I have to compromise) 
I then sand these with dremel sanding drum in shaper table, and finish with files and knife.
 

 
I find it easier, but much more time consuming to paint things before they are fitted then just touching up as necessary.
 
 
 
 
Here is a picture of the top deck, just sitting there for the photo. It does fit in but is a tight fit past the ribs.
I still need to fit the smaller beams and some horizontal knees.
 

 
 
After I have all the knees fitted and wall painted white I will need to finish the pumps and cannons before I can fit the top deck.
I still want to look into the riding bitt and get that to look more original.
It is very close to the pumps so clearance may be an issue, but I think I will be able to come up with something that will look suitable.

I was able to get the display case construction completed today as well as the sanding and staining. I know there is debate among woodworkers about the efficacy of sanding beyond 220 before finishing, but the Sam Maloof finish called for sanding through 400 and burnishing with steel wool prior to applying the Poly/Oil. Since I had them, I chose to sand through 600 grit using my random orbital sander. I also think it is wood dependent. If this were soft woods, trying to sand beyond 200 would prove useless. However, the walnut seems to do well with it.
 
Then I applied the stain. Tomorrow I will start applying the rub on finish.
 
The photos below show the case dry assembled. I will not glue the case together until all the finish is applied. Then I need to move it out of the workshop and upstairs before I put it together. I think it would be too heavy and cumbersome to move much once the glass is in it. I will do the final assemble a few feet from where it will be set.
 
This shows the construction of the case bottom. The cross supports were primarily to hold the sides in square before the top of the platform was installed. They are white pine so they do not add much weight but a lot of strength to the construction.
 

 
The plywood being glued here is the hidden shelf that will contain the plans and build log - that way they stay together with the ship. I wrote on the plywood in big letters that it contains the plans and log so it will not be missed.
 

 
Here is the dry assembled case. You can see how the glass will be inset now. The front of the case is facing outward. I am beginning to see the Connie's new home taking shape.
 

 
You can also see that the colors are now even. The lighter colored sapwood is no longer evident. 
 

 

 
You can see the groove for the access door in the back. There is a matching and a bit deeper groove in the top. 
 

 

 
This will probably be the last post for the case for a week or so. I think ti would be really boring to post pictures of paint drying! I also have to create the new walnut base for the ship. Once I get that done and the ship mounted on it, I will post that. I will also post the assembly of the LED lighting. Since it is custom it will require a bit of soldering and fitting.

Here it is broken down. Below is the top and access door frame. The door frame pieces are the 4 to the left. The aluminum channels will be for the lights. You can see the routings in the top necessary for the glass and all the other fittings. When all this comes together, everything will be flush with the bottom.
 

 
The small diagonal channel will be to carry the wire from the corner post to the LED channel.
 

 
It is a bit hard to se here, but there is a small channel to the left. You can see the walnut insert covering it. This runs on the top side on the opposite side of the previous photo. This connects the two LED strips on either side of the top.
 
 

 
This provides a nice photo of the LED channels. There is a diffusion cover that snaps in the channels over the LEDs.
 

 
This shows the top of the corner post showing where the wire exits the post and will enter the diagonal channel shown above.
 

 
This shows the bottom of the same corner post. The bottom post extends down through the base and is supported by blocks on either side where it will be glued. The wire will be led through the base and out the back to the dimmer control and power supply.
 

 
Here is the base along with the four corner posts. The light color in the channel to the right will be darkened by the stain. This will be the drop in channel for the back access door.
 

 
 

It has been awhile since I updated the display case. I thought today would be a good point. Since the last update I have been cutting, shaping and joining the various pieces that make up the case itself. Since the glass, LED lighting, and access door are all inset into the frame and base the joinery has been fairly complicated (at least for me) so I have taken my time in measuring and remeasuring before I cut anything. I really do not want to have to run out to Manassas and get anymore Walnut because I screwed up a measurement. So everything is now cut out, shaped, and joined. Trust me, I have made a LOT of sawdust!
 
I also spent time cutting the channels to run all the lights and electrical cords through. They will run up from inside the base through one of the corners into the top.  There will be aluminum channels with the LED lights mounted in them inset flush to the top. 
 
The next step is to continue sanding on all the pieces then once I get beyond 220, to stain everything. I also still need to add some support blocks within the base so I can glue the corners into it.
 
I assembled everything minus the glass and lights today for the final check before I started sanding and staining. Once everything is sanded and stained, I can apply the Poly/Oil finish.
      This shows the underside of the top. You can see the top of the access door frame as well as the channel for the LED lights. The access door will be lifted into the upper slot, then lowered into a slot on the base. Once it is installed it will be flush with the rest of the case frame. Incidentally, you can also see the color variations within the walnut. This is one of the reasons a stain is good to treat the walnut and even out the color. The other being walnut tends to yellow as it ages so the stain keeps the color consistent as it grows old.  

One more thing I forgot to include in my last up-date. Here is the most useful modeling tool I have been using lately.
 

 
My old snow blower of 25 years died just before the blizzard last month and I was fortunate to find this one in Home Depot the next day. It has been the most useful modeling tool because it has gotten me back to modeling in half the time of the old snow blower.
 
I actually had to snow blow a path around the house yesterday so the oil delivery guy could get to the filler tube. First time I ever had to do that.
 

Yeah, George, my kit is only a few years old. I am not sure when they started adding the replacement parts.
 
After the pintles and gudgeons, I made the chain iron. I used a piece of brass tubing that I soldered two eye bolts in one end. I bent the eye bolts so they both fit side by side before soldering them. I cleaned up the excess solder then cut the tube to length and filed the end flat. I bent the same brass strip as I used for the P&Gs and then soldered it to the brass tube. Since this piece goes on the black part of the rudder, I cleaned it up a bit then put it into some Brass Black to see what would happen. The silver solder blackened nicely, as did the brass, so I was very happy.
 

 
It was then time to get back to the copper sheathing, since all the paint had been applied, including the area around the rudder hole. I first marked out the top edge of the of the final line of plates using masking tape, which I made sure was absolutely straight. It showed that I had some areas that were more than 3 rows wide to complete. So, I took off the trimmed plates from the last two rows of plates in the previous section and left the full width plates. I left the plates at the back of the rows up so that I could slip the new plates under them. I then marked down from the final edge for each row of the dressing belt plates, which showed the gore line at the top edge of the previous belt. I filled in the rows with whole and partial plates to the new gore line.
 

 

 
I then completed the three dressing belt rows. I did start the bottom dressing belt at the stern post, instead of near the turn of the stern that the plans show, so I trimmed off some plates from the previous belt there. I also used smaller plates around the sharp turn at the stern to make the curve look better. As I added the plates in the final row, I matched them up with the edge of the masking tape, and pulled back the tape as I went along, to make sure no plates were over the edge of the tape and to check the edge for straightness. I was really pleased with how straight the edge came out.
 

 

 

 
I have since transferred the top edge of the plates to the starboard side and marked it with masking tape, but have not started removing and adding plates yet.

I'm back from whale watching and started to make neat the rigging I have already installed. It's very dificult since my fat fingers barely fit in the deck area anymore. I'll neaten up what I 've done before installing any more yards and sails.