jre8655

Progress has been slow, but the hull is now primed and sanded.  I applied the first coat of primer, sanded this down to the planking.  A second coat of primer was applied and finish sanded smooth.
 
The poppets were then glued to the bulwarks and sanded flush with the top of the bulwarks.
 
Those of you that are either building this particular model, or plan to, need to watch out for this next bit.
 
After the cut is made to the stem for the bowsprit; the instructions call for the gunwales to be glued to the top of the bulwarks.  I went right ahead (all fat, dumb, and happy) and glued the first one in place.  Then I aligned the second one, at the stern, with the first one and glued it in place.  The two gunwales did not exactly align at the bow however, and I didn’t think that much of it because I could just do a little cutting and finishing to produce a nice alignment.
 
I was double checking my glue joints when I discovered that the pre-cut holes in the port and starboard gunwales do not line up.  The two parts have been cut differently.  Measuring these holes I found them to be off by about two millimeters.  It was significant enough that had I not corrected the problem all the rigging would be askew when finished.
 
After making the measurements, I plugged the holes on the starboard side and re-drilled them to match the port side.  The plugging was easy; I just used the tapered ends of some round toothpicks.  These fit very nicely into the holes and sanded smooth.  Doubt you’ll even see any trace of them after painting.
 
I tried to show, in the photos, how this misalignment looked before and after correction.  The last photo is a combination of a photo before the fix and one taken afterward.  Hope this helps.
 
So, what did I learn?  Two identical pieces probably aren’t!!

Stayed up late last night and applied a coat of Elmer's Wood Filler to the hull.  I thinned the filler down somewhat so I could get a into all the crevices between the planks.
 
Application was done using two different spatulas and then my fingers to achieve the concave curves.  I'll give this a chance to cure completely then begin a final sanding.

I had a chance to get the planking done over the three day weekend.  Adding the filler blocks between the bulkheads really helped.  I was able to ensure that the planks were glued along their entire length.
 
Most of the sanding is done.  Still a little more to go.  I'm not too concerned with the gaps between the planks right now.  I'll fill those in with wood filler to get a nice smooth surface.

Tim,
 
Thus far I think the kit itself contains very good wood.  The instructions are easy to follow.  The only problem I've encountered is the one with the stern reinforcement blocks being misnumbered on the parts sheet.
 
There is an addendum which adds a strip of basswood onto the bulkheads at deck level to fill in the notch cut in the bulkheads before installing the bulwarks.  I'm not sure why the notches were cut into the bulkheads because if you do install the bulwarks without this filler strip the planking will not butt up to the bulwarks properly.  So someone at Model Shipways caught this error and corrected it in the instructions.
 
I have installed the basswood filler and the bulwarks and begun the hull planking.  This is going slow because of some family medical issues, but is progressing.  I figure if I can at least get one or two planks installed in the evenings I'll still be getting it done.
 

Moving along slowly.  I have been away from the workbench for a while because of family needs.
 
I was getting ready to start planking the hull when a thought struck me.  I felt uncomfortable with the wood supplied for the planking.  It just seemed to me that it was too flimsy and would give too much spanning the bulkheads.  So I decided to glue filler blocks between the bulkheads to better support the planking.
 
I have completed these filler blocks and shaped the hull.  I’ll add some wood filler to round out the sharp curves and fill in any holes then begin planking.

Experienced a break in progress, but am now continuing construction.  Glued the decks onto the top of the false keel and bulkheads.  I had to trim a bit of the decks to ensure they conformed to the shape of the hull as dictated by the bulkheads.
 
Following the instruction manual, I laid the first deck plank down the center of the decks then proceeded to glue the remaining deck planks.  Looks nice, but after finding some posts pertaining to deck planks I discovered that one plank wouldn’t run the entire length of the deck.  I’m not too keen to cut all these planks off and start over.  Besides, I don’t have enough to accomplish this.  I’ll leave this one as is and make a note to myself on the next build.
 
 

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
<
 
All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
<
 
All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
<
 
All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
<
 
All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
<
 
All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

I’ve attached all the standing and running rigging to the sails and am ready to begin attaching the sails to the model.
 

 
I opted to begin with the Fore Sail.  It just seemed to me that this was the logical sail to start with because I have to get in pretty close to tie the Mast Hoops to the sail.  Looks like it’s all coming together.  At least this one.  All in all, it took the better part of two hours to get this sail in place.
 

 
I’ll move on to the Main Sail next.
 

I’ve attached all the standing and running rigging to the sails and am ready to begin attaching the sails to the model.
 

 
I opted to begin with the Fore Sail.  It just seemed to me that this was the logical sail to start with because I have to get in pretty close to tie the Mast Hoops to the sail.  Looks like it’s all coming together.  At least this one.  All in all, it took the better part of two hours to get this sail in place.
 

 
I’ll move on to the Main Sail next.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

The masts are ready to be glued into the hull.  In one photo I have of the Bluenose I found that there is a collar (Boom Jaws Rest) on each mast.  The kit includes 20 brass rings (10 for each mast) to secure the Main and Fore Sails to their respective masts.  These rings were placed on the masts then the Boom Jaws Rests glued in place.  This really helped prevent the rings from dropping all the way to the deck and in the case of the Main Mast they would have rested inside the Fife Rail.
 
With the masts in this configuration I set about epoxied them into the hull.  On this model there is no rake to the masts so they are set perpendicular to the deck.  I cut some cardboard braces to size and secured them to each mast to hold the mast at 90 degrees while the epoxy set.
 
I believe I’m ready to move on to the booms, gaffs, and jaws.

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

Finished the display stand this afternoon.  It does have the desired look I wanted.
 
When the Admiral saw it she remarked, “It looks like what we saw in San Diego where they’re building that ship.”  She was referring to the San Salvador that the San Diego Maritime Museum is building.  So even she thinks it looks like a dry dock.  That’s praise enough for me.
 
What I discovered in building this was that I managed to get both sides of the hull very close in contour.  All the support pieces on the stand are identical Port and Starboard.  That pleased me.

Our San Diego vacation has produced what I can only hope is a future ship modeler:
 

The Holidays, with all the family activities, do not lend themselves to model ship building.  Throw in a week-long trip to San Diego, a birthday for our granddaughter, and things very rapidly come to a halt.  I’m not complaining.  It’s been wonderful having all the family over for the various celebrations and I’ve been able to get in an hour or two of building every couple of days.
 
As stated in a previous post, after the seams were sewn in, I painted the hems with a 50% solution of white glue and water.
 

 
The result was that the sail cloth took on the texture of light construction paper.  I used a dental spatula to score the hem fold lines.  This made for a very nice, sharp crease in the cloth.
 

 
The crease made it fairly easy to hold the hem fold while sewing and the result was a very nice hem line.
 
<
 
When I finished the hems I laid out all the sails and discovered that the Main and Main Topsail didn’t match up where they will be secured to the Main Mast Gaff.
 

 
I had to recalculate the two sail patterns then completely remake these two sails.  They now align where they should.