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ulrich

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  1. ulrich
    Hello, Everyone, I am starting to tackle the standing rigging on MS's Willie Bennett. The kit supplies 2 sizes of steel wire for the shrouds, Topping Lift, Head Stay and Fore Stay. I have no experience in using wire for rigging and would like to ask for help, tips and advise with this issue. My main concern is in regards to seizing, stretching, fraying and other possible problems. Should I use rope instead of wire? Thanks for your help. Kind regards, Ulrich
  2. ulrich
    Thanks again, Russ. It will be laying on deck after winding it around the drum. Ulrich
  3. ulrich
    Thanks, Russ I kind'a thought that. So, is the end of the chain just laying around on deck or hanging down off the warping heads or is it fastened to something? Regards, Ulrich
  4. ulrich
    Hello you'all I am working on the Skip Jack Willie Bennett. A mystery, I haven't been able to solve is: where does the anchor chain end up being secured to? Does any one have the answer? Regards, Ulrich
  5. ulrich
    Hi, Steve J, I have build this model many years ago. It is a nice kit not too hard to build (I was a beginner than). The issue I see, is with the scale of some of the decoration used for the rails. They determine how high the rails will be (as I remember). Looking at them now they seem too short (especially the entire fore castle, the rail around the companion ladders etc.) There are a few photos of a dutch Man of war from the Hohenzollern Museum in Berlin in a book: Classic Sailing-Ship Models in Photographs by Morton Nance, Plates 23, 24 25 and on the cover. I also believe the kit is based on this model. Regards, Ulrich
  6. ulrich
    The first one was an Aeropiccolo brand that "broke" at the bottom of the shaft due to its "vent" holes and its flimsy construction. I guess, I put too much pressure on it while bending or "ironing". The second (ME's current version) lasted for quite some time, it all depends on how often and how long it is in use and how long it stays heated up. I think the resistors will burn out just like with light bulbs? My current tool (ME) is still doing fine but I believe a temperature controller would extend its life. I also have made my own stand for it using wire fastened to a wooden base. Regards, Ulrich
  7. ulrich
    Hi everyone, I have been using ME's plank bender for many years. (my 3rd one due to burn out). Besides doing a good job in bending planks, I also use it to "iron" the second layer planks onto the first not needing to use clamps, nails etc. I do use 2 types of glue to do this: CA glue in small drops at stress points(front end, severe bends etc.), wood glue (very thin) for the rest of the plank. Any discoloration of planks is easy to sand off, excess glue is wiped off quickly with a damp rag. Kind regards, Ulrich
  8. ulrich
    Hi you'all, the above drawing of the copper "belts" is very similar to Longridge's description in his book "Cutty Sark",which I have used building my model (Mantua). He also writes that the upper plate overlays the lower plate, the front overlays the back plate, thus starting the process of coppering a the keel and stern. This method was used on merchant ships, whereas the lower plate overlapping the upper plate was used on war ships, this according to Longridge. Other sources describe the later method also being used on merchant ships. Confusing!! Does anyone have a clear understanding on this issue? Regards, Ulrich
  9. ulrich
    almost unreal and for sure unsurpassed to see you create such a master piece. Regards, Ulrich
  10. ulrich
    Hello Karl, again, your work is just awesome. Only a few models (and I have seen a few) have shown this level of perfection. Wonderful work! Looking forward to following your build. With kind regards, Ulrich

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