Hollander-jan

Hello to all off you. After a verry long period of not feeling good Iplan to take up the build off my ship. Have to get in to it again and make myself  again familiar with the plan. This will take a week or so. My planning will be "take it easy" all the parst are in good condition but have to sort them out and see where I can get back in to the build again. I hope that all off you will give me advise when I come to questions and problems with the build for now I hope to see you on my log again as I get posts off my progress.
 
Jan

Hello tkay11 here I am back. How are you?  after more than a year. planning to take up where I left off. I will take it easy and get all the stuf and tools in good shape before restart the build. Have to get in to it again. I hope to speak to later on and off course all the other Sherbourne builders good by for now.
 
By the way you made good progress on the build have to look in to more in detail. Looks verry good.

Wonderful news, Jan! I hope the health problems are now over. It's great to see you back. As usual, there's no rush, so I look forward to seeing your progress when you have the time.
 
Tony

Hello to all off you. After a verry long period of not feeling good Iplan to take up the build off my ship. Have to get in to it again and make myself  again familiar with the plan. This will take a week or so. My planning will be "take it easy" all the parst are in good condition but have to sort them out and see where I can get back in to the build again. I hope that all off you will give me advise when I come to questions and problems with the build for now I hope to see you on my log again as I get posts off my progress.
 
Jan

Hello tkay11 here I am back. How are you?  after more than a year. planning to take up where I left off. I will take it easy and get all the stuf and tools in good shape before restart the build. Have to get in to it again. I hope to speak to later on and off course all the other Sherbourne builders good by for now.
 
By the way you made good progress on the build have to look in to more in detail. Looks verry good.

Hello to all off you. After a verry long period of not feeling good Iplan to take up the build off my ship. Have to get in to it again and make myself  again familiar with the plan. This will take a week or so. My planning will be "take it easy" all the parst are in good condition but have to sort them out and see where I can get back in to the build again. I hope that all off you will give me advise when I come to questions and problems with the build for now I hope to see you on my log again as I get posts off my progress.
 
Jan

Hello to all off you. After a verry long period of not feeling good Iplan to take up the build off my ship. Have to get in to it again and make myself  again familiar with the plan. This will take a week or so. My planning will be "take it easy" all the parst are in good condition but have to sort them out and see where I can get back in to the build again. I hope that all off you will give me advise when I come to questions and problems with the build for now I hope to see you on my log again as I get posts off my progress.
 
Jan

Here it is, my belaying plan. It started with George Bandurek’s list, and then I tried to match it with Petersson’s drawings. There were big differences not only in the kind of rigging, but also in the use of terms, so I decided to draw a picture. I photoshopped Petersson’s cutter into something resembling my Sherbourne, added some sails and rigging details or moved them around; and gave each part a name. 
 

 
Doing that in two languages made this a true Babylonian task. But this was necessary to clear my brain and complete the rigging list.
Sherbourne Rigging_v2.pdf
This list was then used to draw a belaying plan for my model. I was very relieved when I saw that there are even more belaying points than necessary! As I’m still unsure whether to make (furled) sails or not, the amount of lines might be reduced later.
 

 
Of course, one can always add more lines… But these are the parts that Petersson shows in his drawings, minus the Burton tackles. It took quite some time to make these plans, but it was the only way for me. I cannot do that in my head alone. And it was also a test: Petersson doesn’t show a belaying point for the forestay, and his cutter has a modern windlass with many belaying pins, therefore I had to find alternatives.
Peterssons cutter is shown without sails, and I’m confused with some details: He shows a topsail bowline. Can this be right? Do topsails have bowlines? In my list at the moment I have bowlines for the lower sail (on Petersson’s model there are bowlines (?) coming from the topyard). This is hard to decide for a mere landsman.
Consulting the plans of the Pickle online was very helpful – it seems that Caldercraft’s younger kits have generally thinner ropes (the main shrouds are only 0.75 mm instead of 1 mm in Sherbourne’s plan).
I present this plans in the hope to start a discussion; I guess they have many errors and mistakes. Any comment is very much appreciated and welcome, and will help me build something that makes sense (at least, that’s my ambition). 
 
Gregor
 
Edit: Errors corrected (foresail should be behind staysail, bowline at topsail), new Rigging plan and drawing.

Tony compliments on a very nice piece of work. Looks realy good and much worth the effort and all the hard work and dertermination.
 
job well done!!
 
Jan

Ebony cannon
 
Well, after turning 8 barrels from boxwood (I had decided that it would be overkill to try casting from resin, and it did only take a day to do) I did decide to follow Nigel's suggestion and turn the cannon in ebony after all. It seemed to me that boxwood allowed a little more accuracy, but the appearance after painting wasn’t as nice as that of ebony.
 
I also decided to make the carriages at the same scale as for the 3pdr cannon. I won’t go into the process of making the carriages smaller, as I used the same techniques as for the 3.5pdr carriages that I made last time.
 

 
To make sure I didn’t go off the line too much when drilling out the bore, I used BluTak (a kind of putty) to act as a depth gauge.
 

 
Holes for the trunnions
 
I had not covered in my last posting how I drilled the holes for the trunnions. This had caused me to think a while because I needed to drill a horizontal hole through a barrel that has a changing diameter along its length.
 
In the end, the answer was simple. Using the CAD drawings I found that in order to lay the barrel so that the centre line was perfectly horizontal, I’d need to raise the edge of the muzzle swelling by 0.45mm. So I rested and held the barrel on a plank with some BluTak and placed the muzzle on some feeler gauges that combined to a depth of 0.45mm.
 
This assembly was fixed to my x-y table and a 1mm hole drilled through so that the top of the trunnion went through the central line of the bore. You’ll note the faint pencil mark in front of the reinforce ring that shows the centre line of the barrel.
 

 

 
The trunnions
 
The trunnions themselves were again made from strips off a bamboo chopstick pulled through a drawplate to 1mm diameter.
 

 
You can see the different barrels from ebony, boxwood and painted pear when compared to the original barrel below.
 

 
Finally, you can compare the carriages and barrels as they went through their evolution. (For those with questions about the acrobatic abilities of the captain, he is not standing on the barrel, but is behind).
 

 
Should you ask whether it was worth it to make a small difference to the size of the cannon and their carriages, all I can say is that they now fit the cannon ports much better. That as well as the fact that I've improved my skills slightly as a result of all this fiddling around.
 
Now I will be working on the rigging for the cannon, and I've started to plan for the belaying pins and racks.
 
Tony
 

Hoi Gregor,
 
Thanks for mentioning the book  “Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft” i have downloaded a copy. Had a quick look and this is good stuf later on I wil read it thanks a lot.
By the way your doing verry wel with the ship. 
 
cheers 
 
Jan

The mental fog is lifting slowly; important puzzle parts are coming together. I’ve spent a lot of time reading logs and books about rigging. Finally I could lay my hands on a copy of Petersson’s “Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft”, which I had seen mentioned before. Beautiful to look at, but more importantly to me it’s like a Rigging Guide for Dummies (that’s meant as a compliment to the author). It answers in many drawings the most important beginner’s question: “What happens if I pull this string here?”
I’m really glad now that I copied (almost blindly) Dirks pin arrangement, it’s almost exactly the one from Petersson’s book, and I was very happy to see that Petersson’s cutter is the same one (from the Science Museum in London) as the one in Goodwin’s Alert book, around 1785. Details of this kind of rigging can also bee seen in John’s beautiful, much younger cutter Stag.
 

 
Although I know from our discussions and from the NMM plan that the historical Sherbourne had almost certainly an older version of rigging (there is a spread yard listed on the plan) like the one of the cutter Hawke from 1777, I wanted to give my Sherbourne a modernized rigging for her Second Life. It’s not historically accurate, but it’s also no anachronism. The earliest picture of this kind of rigging arrangement I could find is again the Fly from 1779.
 

 
Fly’s rigging shows crosstrees and futtock staffs for the topmast shrouds, while the nameless cutter from around 1785 (the hull! the rigging might have been added later as it uses many more metal parts and hooks than older ones) only has one rigging spreader.
I assume there existed a wide variety of rigging methods used in cutters at the same time. Crosstrees without futtock staffs can be seen also in the Trial, around 1790, and then many more in younger vessels.
 

 
Of crosstrees there are also different shapes, mine come from Jotika’s Pickle, and are slightly rounded, which I like. But there are many drawings of straight crosstrees in cutters and other vessels.
So for the first time I can see my Sherbourne as a sailing caft.
 

 
Gaff and Boom are not yet ready; it’s too cold outside at the moment. But I have made mast and yards. I simply borrowed my neighbour’s electric drill from his power tool collection, sat in the sun on the roof before it went AWOL and let the spars slowly rotate through two files and/or sandpaper, always checking with plan and caliper, while I gave my fingers time to cool down.
 

 
The yards are made quite simply: Following George Bandurek’s suggestion I made the battens with paper (two layers of sticky labels); the clamps are leftovers from my gun project.
And finally the kit’s original guns came to glory again: I sanded down one of the original wheels and put it on the topmast.
 

 
Cheers,
Gregor

No, Tony, I don’t think the laser beats the classic method at all. It went well with this method, and it was fun being student again, but for a better result there would be a lot of designing to do. The burn marks also forced me to use paint, the wheels should be cut bigger so you can sand down the winter profile…
But for the moment I’m quite pleased, the new guns fit in nicely. It was fun to use scrap parts for things like quoin handles: again I used leftover stems from 0.3 mm eyelets and a tiny drop of PVE glue. The eye bolt on the back of the rear axle will be added together with the double block later. Here a few Sunday evening pictures.
 

 

 

 

 

 
As you see, I left the wheels unpainted; the plywood can still be seen. I have a cheap excuse for that: I show dowels that hold the parts of the wheels together, after all. Ok, Goodwin’s Alert shows only halves and not three parts…
But the pins to prevent the wheels from falling off defeated me utterly – I can live with that.
Cheers,
Gregor 

Hi Eamonn,
 
ofcourse you cab have the addres http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&cat=news they do a swift job you order - they mail they have the
order- then when they post it - all within 5 days in my case. 
I just made one for practice yesterday and finished it today here are the pictures notice the wheels. they still need some sanding, comes all right.
 

 

 

 
Have a nice weekend 
 
Jan

The top rail is on here are some pictures of the weight I put on to get the two glued on in one go. The are fixed with two nail on each side. Spot on and no glu stains on the ship. Used pva as a glue.
 



 
BTW the rudder broke of  have to do it again.
 
Jan

Gregor,
 
If you bought your guns by RB in Poland did you get not carriages with them? I bought my gun there also (see my log) and they came with very ok carriages.
 
 
 
Jan

Take Care Jan and We'll See You In A Few Months Ok!
 
Best Of Luck
 
Eamonn

Thank you all for the well wishes it is great to read them. Today I have put all the stuf and the boat, tools and so on in an ordened fasion in the drwawers of my desk and on shelfs in the study, the boat is in plastic because of the dust.   I hope to be back in the autem but I am not sure. I wish you all the best and happy building.
And thanks again for all you well wishes.
 
be seeing you on MSW.
 
Jan

Thank you all – here some news: Finally some progress with the guns! Because I’m still resisting the temptation of buying dust-producing machines like mills and lathes – I usually do the heavy sanding outside of our apartment, peacefully on the roof – I had to look for alternative ways to make new gun carriages.
A jeweller’s saw and files didn’t work successfully for me. Then I found out that our local technical university has an open lab policy: You can use their equipment like laser cutters and 3d-printers for a very tiny fee. For preparation I had to download a manual and a template file, and then show an assisting student that I know what I’m doing. Preparing the drawings with Adobe Illustrator was easy for me at home; I’m using this software often. A big help were Chuck’s drawings of a twelve-pounder gun (sadly his smallest guns are six pounders). 
Once there, it was like printing. That is, you have to tinker with the settings like speed, frequency and heat of the laser. Working with cheap plywood, I saw smoke and flames. But after an hour, my allotted time, I went home with more than enough carriage parts (many of the very small things were lost to the ventilating system because I forgot to draw small bridges…).
At home (smells of burning wood and adhesives in my study) I had to admit that drawing is easy, but constructing is more difficult – while I tried to reengineer Chuck’s design I made some mistakes – I started with Chuck’s drawing, hence the layout, and tried to make the parts fit. But simply make something smaller doesn’t work very well; tiny differences in thickness of wood have great impact. In the end I did not use all the parts, sanding, cutting and filing was necessary to make the parts come together. If it were not for the interesting experience with the laser, I’d like to buy the kits from Chuck’s, where my blocks come from. For four-pounders I would suggest a new, simplified design.
 

 
I recycled the axles from the kit’s guns. The cheeks came out well, also the wheels. In the following picture you can see the limits of this method: my wheels look like winter tyres in this magnification. More time with the laser and better wood would surely produce a better result.
 

 
The best thing was, the laser could cut and scratch at the same time (red and green lines were prepared in the drawings); this gave me the markings for all the small holes to drill for the eyelets. It was even possible to cut out the holes in the wheels (1 mm).
My guns are still four ponders, but I’m quite pleased with them so far. Since the guns were the first things I made when I started in summer 2012, they are proof of some progress.
Cheers,
Gregor
 

Thanks very much, Michael. I've followed your Bristol Cutter for a long time now in total admiration, so it's very encouraging to hear that you've liked some of the ideas in this build. The idea for the yoke came because I just couldn't think of another way to make the holes on either side exactly in line with one another so that they could have a rod passed through them without sticking.
 
However, I would just like to say that such ideas probably only come after studying the ways builders such as yourself approach problems. There seems to be a definite way of thinking about tools and materials that builders have, and a lot of my enjoyment of this hobby has been picking up this way of thinking and teaching my hands as well as my brain this new language. And the simpler, most basic and easy the solution, the more elegant it seems!
 
Tony

Gregor,
 
Look at it in the way " a man has to do what a man has to do " And it is done well, so they maybe think your crazy but tell them I am building a boat.
 
Ship Ahoy  
 
Cheers and congratulations job well done.
 
Jan 

I have completed the rigging of the carronades, I’m now certified insane at home. It was kind of fun, and I’m no longer afraid of rigging the long guns when the time comes …
 

 
Both carronades got a full set of five tackles, with a single and a double block (2mm from Chuck’s Syren Company) and 0.1 mm thread. They still look quite big beside these 12 pounders.
I guess they weren’t used all at the same time. Here they are laid out for inspection. The rope’s ends are not cheesed down; I choose to tie them as shown in many pictures of museum replicas.
 

 
The stress on the timbers we have discussed lately will have to be compensated with modernised pumps. They come from Caldercraft’s Pickle; I bought them way back when I thought I would never solder anything myself. I like the metal parts that came with the mini-kit, but took a bigger dowel to make the pump case octagonal with a file.
Cheers,
Gregor

Great to see that it will work out in the end Tony. Very nice work and well thought out. We can all learn from your way to get to things, together with the determination you have. Great to look and even more great to read all about it well done.
 
Jan

Jan and Kester,
I think you are both totally right, technically and historically. It was a fun project, after all, which I enjoyed very much, together with this discussion.
But who knows, maybe my Sherbourne is much stronger than others, breathing fresh mountain air…
 
Gregor

Gregor,
 
This thing about your lovely carronades is just for the fun of making arguments not for historicaly right or wrong. You do what you want to do and in my opinion you do it very well and it all looks good. We all live now and nobody can tell exactly how this particular ship was armed, because there are no records. And beside that it must have a hell of a job to manage it and at the same time  to do the difficult thing of sailing it and fighting and chasing the bandits.
You keep doing what you think is nice and we all be pleased with the way you do it because there is no doubt about that.
 
cheers
 
Jan