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Kris Avonts

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About Kris Avonts

  • Birthday 05/30/1956

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    Geel, Belgium

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  1. Hi Tony, Glad to see that you made such nice progress on your schooner. Sorry I didn't post some updates of my efforts to create a hull for a 74-gun ship. But last week I finally succeeded in making several surfaces that represent the hull quite well. Only at the stern it still has some 'wrinkles'. Maybe it is good enough to start lofting timbers. Here is the framework of stations, waterlines and other guiding lines made from sketches. And next you can see what the hull looks like based on the above frame. So, after all, it is
  2. Hi Kiyoo, This looks a nice and elegant way of creating the required lines for frame timbers. I'm however quite surprised regarding your effort estimation as you have given in reply to Druxey's question. If I look at my own efforts, I would rather spend months instead of days to reach that state. Well done! May we also get a clue about the specific drawing software (both 2D and 3D) that you are using? I'm a fan of FreeCAD, mostly because it is 'free' in every sense. best regards, Kris
  3. For me, it looks like a smart variation on the impossible dovetail joint. Anyway, it is fine craftsmanship. best regards, Kris
  4. Hello ASlrWnt2C, As a first indication you can take a look at this picture which is part of plate IX in William Falconer's dictionary. The middle gun shown is run in as far its breeching lines allow. Maybe that can help you further. best regards, Kris
  5. Now let’s go for the last mile of this thickness sander. The drum or roller is massive beech and has only 2 centred holes of 6 mm at its ends. So it must be supported from both sides by a 6 mm steel axle. I mount these 2 axles with a flanged bushing in the MDF side plates. The 2 holes (26 mm diameter) for the bushings are drilled in one go on the drill stand with the side plates aligned. Each bushing holds 2 bearings so that there is almost no play on the 2 axles. The next picture shows the side where the drive of the drum is done, shown from out- and inside.
  6. On we go with finishing the height control in this part. The bevel gearbox I used was bought at Conrad and they have the next data sheet on their website. datablad-222355-mfa.pdf As you can see in the picture it has some annoying bolts and nuts that stick out from its body. I remedied that by drilling counterbored holes at both sides of its body. The screw heads just fit in and the nuts are melted in with a soldering iron. After mounting all bolts again, the sticking out parts are ground off. Then it was easy to mount it on top of the gearbox with 2 pieces of MDF (s
  7. Hello Bob, Yes I can access that article. It's of a more classic design but well adapted to the lathe. Certainly enough power to sand wider pieces of material. The popular mechanics article, I also discovered that some time ago. It is still inspiring for its straightforward and simple construction. thanks, Kris
  8. Hi Jaager, the 4 degrees of freedom actually reduce into just 1 degree of freedom by the gearbox construction. That will be shown more clearly later. Let’s go on because it still doesn’t look like its going to be a thickness sander. Adding the side plates (also in 12 mm MDF) will help to imagine what the final tool will look like. Here is a model that shows both side plates. The plates are asymmetric because I wanted to integrate the motor in the left plate. The motor is a brushed DC motor of the ‘pancake’ type. It is shown next.
  9. Jaager, this is going to be a 'mini' sander. But I will take care with the wood flour and provide an adequate dust extraction solution. In this part I will show how the basic construction is made. The idea is to have the height table mounted on 4 spindles. Turning the spindles will move the table up or down. This can only work if all 4 spindles have synchronized movement and depend on just 1 height control. As spindles I chose to use a lead screw type known as TR8x1. This has trapezoidal thread with 1 mm pitch. I ordered 4 screw/nut combinations of 200 mm in China (12.5
  10. OK Bruce, you may take the front seat. For wooden model ship building you often need small pieces of wood in different thicknesses. That inspired me to develop a small drum thickness sander that would be easy to build and operate. My requirements list is however long: stiff drum to carry standard sandpaper material (no sleeves) easy mounting of the sandpaper on the drum (no gap in the drum) wide choice of grids easy drum exchange drum drive with variable speed support table that can be moved up and down while staying parallel (
  11. In this topic I want to report on my effort in building a thickness sander. The last few months I spend some time finishing a second attempt that finally met with my requirements. But before I show the final result, I want to tell the story of the first attempt and comment on its construction and what I learned from it. In 2010 I decided that if I ever wanted to start a scratch build, I definitely needed a thickness sander. I got the chance to have a machine part available that seemed ideal to be converted into a sanding drum. It is an aluminium cast piece with bearings
  12. When looking at the deck pictures, I almost forget it's a model. Fantastic detail and superb metal work.
  13. Hi Tony, The micrometer shows no play nor backlash, so it should be precise up to 0.01 mm. I paid much attention to mounting the support very level both horizontal and vertical. In order to make the fit between the proxxon body and the support almost perfect, I filed the rounding by hand. But that was not perfect, a little tilting was still possible. So I decided to use some metal epoxy glue on the edges of the support and stretched some plastic kitchen foil over the proxxon top. After positioning the support on the plastic, I checked with a level tool and
  14. I have an MB200 drill stand from proxxon and I mostly use it for precision milling work. As a drill stand it only has a handle to do the setting of the depth that is indicated by a mm scale. For small depth settings below 1 mm it becomes difficult to adjust the depth to the wanted value. So I decided to improve the MB200 and fit an auxiliary depth feed screw on top. AS depth feed screw I use a micrometer head with 13 mm range (bought in China for 9 euro’s, but works very well). All the other parts to fix it on top of the MB200 are aluminium that I had available (piece of 40x20
  15. Hi hyw, That's a nice piece of machinery. Based on the size of the square (250x160) I estimate the sanding disk to be 125 mm in diameter. The table is 200x100 mm (?) and sits on a linear guiding rail, but how do you tilt it? And a last question: this seems to be a 3-phase AC induction motor with frequency converter, but what is its power rating. It looks quite heavy for working with wood pieces of the size most used by modellers. Anyway... this is well done. regards, Kris
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