harvey1847

This is the framing for the lower gun deck.

The orlop deck planking is European beech wood and is shown on the starboard side the port side will be left open to show the framing on all the decks.

This set of photos shows the orlop deck framing and close up shots of the wellroom and shot lockers.

Hi Daniel,
 
The starboard side of the model will show the decks with the guns and ironwork and the port side will just show the framing. It is an easy way to cut the work in half. LOL
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Mike

These photos show the well room and shot lockers installed in the model.

The pumps consist of two chain pumps and two common hand pumps before they were installed I installed the beams and framing for the orlop deck.
 

The next few photos show the installation of the wellroom. The pumps set on the lower gun deck and the wellroom passes through the orlop deck. An access door was added at the orlop deck.

A few more photos of the well room assembly.

These photos show the well room and shot locker assembly.

The wellroom and shot locker sides are made from basswood with Yellowheart for the internal framing. I made the louver supports out of boxwood and the louvers out of mahogany. The well has an internal ladder made from Yellowheart which will only be seen in these photos.

The platforms and mast step as installed.

The platforms and mast step were installed next. I used beach wood for the platform planking

The floor riders, first and second floor riders as installed.

I used 20 gauge copper wire to simulate the through bolts.

The frames have all been cut out and I did a little more work on the keel.

Thanks Piet.
Jan what can I say, the MSW Oracle didn't answer and I went forward taking a 50% bet I got it right 
 
Meanwhile, more knee's opposing knee's gratings and so on. Everything is loosely fitted  before marking the mortices for the ledges. Doing tasks in batches certainly speeds things up.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

On A model of this type of exhibition the deadeyes need to be parrallel. With sails, or as a waterline model weathering could be appropriate. The ship is pretty much as launched. I'll explain later.
 
The plastic card is about 1/16 thick, enough to keep the pins from bending.
For the  lower deadeye method I'll back up a bit as it's a part of the rigging job.
After the channels are put on I made a full set of crappy dummy masts using dowels. I just glued and taped the doublings together. I glued wooden strips at the bolster location to hold the shroud and backstay at their location on the masts
 
The plans gave me the location for the deadeyes on the upper channel. I cut a slot to take the chain plate.
I then used the thread tied to the  doubling to locate the angle on the lower channel and hull. I marked it with a soft pencil.
The spacing and angles of the chainplates were on the plans, but I didn't want to chance trusting it.
 
Now I've used the actual mast the same way to mark the plastic cards. On the card I drew on the level of the top edge of the deadeyes. Wire is tied around the chainplate under each deadeye to hold the card in place on the channels. I held each deadeye in place as I drilled the holes through the card. The wire should be a push fit into the plastic. The wire needs to be stiff.
 
Then the shrou seizings each. I used # 80 Egyptian cotton for the seizings.
 
I don't know exactly what is correct for the lanyard color, but went with the same color as my running rigging. I looked at photos of the Cutty Sark.  Photos of other ships were used too. As far as remaining  parallel I figure usually as each shroud or whatever stretched it would be about the same for each group. On these ships they must have been tightened frequently.
 
The shrouds and backstays wrap in opposite direction on the deadeyes on each side, To the stern on starboard. To the bow on port.
 
If anyone needs clarification let me know.
 
 
Now about appearance as launched...Many clippers sold to British companies were sailed over un-coppered. It was done over there. The Lightning went over with a copper color painted bottom.
Now wouldn't that be confusing. It would need to be displayed in a location that would be concerned with a certain fixed time in history. I felt that most buyers would expect a sheathed bottom, and view the paint as a giving up on  a difficult part of the build. How out of place it would have looked in paint! I know I wouldn't want it!
So, is she built to be how she looked as a new ship after being coppered in Britian? Yes, but... They also heightened her masts and added yards. How did the rigging lead? Who knows, there sure isn't any room left on the channels. Add more channel? Who knows! A person could lose ones mind!!! 
 
I build everything for sale so need to take things like this into consideration I make my living doing paintings,sculpture/moldmaking, and scale exhibition models. The last few years mainly the models.
 
Bruce

Greetings to Freek, Ian, Daniel, mark and Elia, thanks for dropping in.
 
@ John (Lad), Yes, that is also my thinking.  It certainly looks like a small Hall type anchor and most likely an auxiliary anchor relying on the mushroom anchor that drops down from the bottom of the keel.
 
@ Daniel, That's a great idea making a collage of these pics.  I want to make a nice folder or binder to put most of the photos I have with the plans and a historical narrative on the O 19 and place it with the finished model.  The purpose of the "teeth" at the bow and stern parts are to function as net and cable cutters.  They are supposed to enable the sub to cut through security nets of enemy harbors that are suppose to prevent subs or surface ships from entering.
 
@ Freek, Thanks for photo of the K XVIII in it's build dock.  It clearly shows the place where the anchor is stowed.  I don't think that the K XVIII had a keel drop-down anchor as the O 19 and O 20 had.  It also looks a little larger and is at the starboard side  The picture in my previous post with the O 19 surfacing, and a few others I have, it appears that the O 19 and O 20 had some extra metal in front of the anchor opening as fairings.
I now vaguely remember having seen a photo of an earlier sub where the bottom of the anchor is clearly visible on the side.  I guess I could go back to the picture archive of the KM and search for it.  However, at this point I'm pretty well convinced in how to shape my anchor.
 
Not much activity in the shipyard, I had to run a few errands.  I was also hunting for a few previously marked angle pieces for the bow net / chain cutter.  I Put them with other "to do" things but they got moved underneath some of them and overlooked them.     
I did cement the rails on the beams above the deck launched torpedo tubes. I got sick and tired at looking at that open hole in the deck    And it emptied the "to do" shelf some so I won't loose them again    Now I can also add the missing decking and make the hatch doors between the tracks.  I just don't want to think about all the hinge pieces I still have to make 
 
I also did some "Googling" to find model anchors.  The one in the top of the pics of yesterday's post I found at a place in the UK, "cornwallmodelboats. com.  I think it's probably the best illustration to model my anchor on.  Should not be too difficult.  
So, now I have pictures and drawings for the anchor and the propellers, great - - - what else do I need - - - plenty!  The deck gun and the two AA guns to start with.  I do have a few nice photos of the deck gun so that should not be a big problem to model.  Next I have to find some good pics of the AA guns.
 
Then back to sketching the draft working drawings for the con.  It's all a slow process.
 

Here is a nice photo of the O 19 dockside in Alexandria, Egypt.  As you all can see she did not yet have her teeth yet, these were added later on.  This was sometime June 1939 when my father sailed on her when she was on the way to the NOI (Netherlands East Indies).  Oh, I still remember the stories my father told us about that voyage.  One was how they caught a shark in the Indian Ocean and he brought a few teeth with him to show us, and they were sharp!  How do I know?  I cut myself, that's how and my father was laughing. 
This one is for your collage Ian, hope you like it. 
   
Cheers,

Epoxy, before it sets up, can be removed using isopropanol or methanol.

Peleng-i Bahri. finish the lower balcony

Hello Shipmates.
 
Another small update.
 
The pumphouse with the shot lockers in place BUT not glued because I will trim the height after fitting the Orlop deck into place.
 
Front view.
 

 
 
 
Other side still the front.
 

 
 
 
View from the rear.
 

 
 
 
Shot lockers lids raised.
 

 
 
 
The next two photos are prepping the Orlop deck construction.
 
The mill I used is a Proxxon .
 
 
 
These are only test joints on some scrap timber.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
That’s about it for now.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
 
 
Regards Antony.
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 20 – Keelson/Forward Deadwood
 
 
American Clipper Note:  In the last part I mentioned Flying Cloud’s record on her 6 passages around Cape Horn from New York to San Francisco before she was retired from that service.  These averaged 116 days - 102 days if the last 185 day trip, during which she was dismasted, is discounted.  In her long career Young America made the passage 20 times from New York, three times from Liverpool and once from Antwerp, with an average of 118 days per trip – her best from New York being 102 days – her worst, 142 days from Antwerp against persistent headwinds.  Her best from Liverpool was 99 days.  This was a stunning 30 year performance.
 
So, back to the model.
 
The remaining frames forward consist of half-frames and cant frames that bolt through the keelson and deadwood.  Since the keelson is bolted atop the square frames, they must be installed first.  So, with all of the forward square frames installed, the forward part of the keelson and the forward deadwood can be constructed.
 
In the last part I showed a picture with two strips representing the two tiers of the keelson.  The forward section of the lower tier – the keelson proper – houses the forward model mounting bolt.  In the first picture a 4-40 nut has been filed down to fit a mortise in the keelson and is being epoxied in place.
 

 
The next picture shows the mounting bolt screwed up through the keel, filler and into the nut in the keelson.  It is protected from screwing in further by of the larger diameter shoulder butting against the bottom of the keel.
 

 
The above picture was taken after installing the first section of the keelson.  Before that could be done it had to be fitted to the apron at its forward end.  At its aft end there is a large scarph joint with the next segment.  Both halves of this joint were made before setting the forward segment.  The joint is shown below.
 

 
In all keel and keelson joints the face of the joint slanted downward in the aft direction.  This is one good reason for installing the keelson from fore to aft.
 
The next picture shows the lower keelson being glued over the filler and the forward square frames.  The picture shows the joint with the second lower segment, but that piece is still loose in the picture.  The wet spots are from washing off excess glue.
 

 
The installed piece was then “bolted” down into the keel with copper wire bolts.  That process is described below.  The bolts have been filed off flush in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the first section of the forward deadwood being fitted.  The pattern is still attached.  The keelson and the deadwood is sided the same as the keel – 16”.
 

 
The last picture shows the insertion of the copper bolts to secure the piece of deadwood.
 

 
This piece has already been glued in, but the process being used for the bolts will also add strength to the model joint.  First holes are drilled at a size that will allow a slip fit for the 22-gauge wire being used.  This wire is pre-stretched to stress harden it.  The holes in this case are about 1” deep, so the bolts are about a scale 6 feet long.  The bolts are dipped in 5-minute epoxy and pushed into the hole.  They are then moved in and out, removed and dipped in epoxy again, reinserted and again moved in and out.  This distributes epoxy throughout the hole.  These bolts will not come out.  When the epoxy hardens the bolts are clipped and filed off flush.
 
As additional members are added, they are bolted in a similar way with bolts as long as my drill bits permit.  Later, additional bolts will be driven like this, through the forward part of the stem into the apron and deadwood.  The keelson bolts are installed in like manner.
 
In the next part, the forward upper tier of the keelson and the remaining forward deadwood will be constructed.
 
Ed

Greetings to Elia, Popeye, Banyan, Sjors, Anthony, Ian and Boris and thank you all for dropping in.  Did you get enough beer and popcorn?  Sjors was buying   
 
@ Ian, you know, our daughter is still talking about it and planning to build that railroad.  She and I designed a nice little mining and lumbering layout, with a small river loading dock! 
As far as the mine issue goes, it's really tempting but let me get my head wrapped around drawing up the plans for the con first, then we;ll see - - - - or sooner 
 
@ Boris, yes, thanks for sending these, they are great and add to my collection.  I have send you also a few pics I found in my files and the digital pics Remco send me from the Navy Archive.  You could machine them from copper or wood or sculpt them from Sculpy.  I'm waiting for the copper that Paul mailed to me and will try to use that.
 
@ Popeye, thanks for looking.  Remco also came up with an idea and we are looking into that as well.  Fortunately there are only a few letters and numbers I need    The small ones at the bow for the load levels are the ones that can be gotten from model railroad places.
 
Well, today was also a day away from the shipyard.  Went to our monthly colored pencil society chapter meeting and then mowed our backyard lawn.  
Besides the mine issue I am also in a dilemma about the bow side anchor.  Remco went to the Navy Archive and could find nothing on that anchor but according to three photos I have there seem to have been a small standard anchor.  I'll show the pics below.  I won't cut into the side of the deck structure until I have something more positive on the anchor.  I think that this will also be guesswork but as long as it looks similar to what I see on the photo then I'll be happy.
 
I'll also add a few pics of mines being loaded.  These are training mines by the way.  This too was not a simple procedure.
 
 
This shows the O 19 surfacing after a test dive in Scotland after she was overhauled in 1944.  When you enlarge the picture you should be able to see the bottom of a small anchor.
 

This is what I think this anchor could look like.
 

This is another example of the type anchor they could have used, much smaller of course.
 

 

 
Cheers, 
 
 
 

Hi Piet. Here are a few photos of the propellers on the O-19. Boris.
 
 

I'm putting on the mizzen shrouds. Donald McKay used a sort of extra mast top, or preventer top a bit below the mast tpps on some of his ships. It must of help negate the twisting forces. It must have added a lot of strength. There are so many things like this about some of his clippers. One other is that some of Lightnings biggest sails had an "X"shaped canvas bracing on them going from corner to corner.
 
She had an unusual  mast/yard set up, she was very wide rather than lofty. I believe that he was trying to gain power this way hoping it would keep her from heeling overly much, making her a drier ship for the passengers.  It was regarded as A very dry ship, so maybe it worked, even though the James Baines company of Liverpool added to her height. Their messing with McKay's design really irks me,. No wonder they were called wood butchers.
 
I left each shroud piece with plenty of extra length. The back halves of the preventer tops should have been put on later as they interfered with making the shrouds top eyes as tight as I wanted. I had to test each one to see that it cleared.
 
I used #80 Egyptian cotton for the seizings. They were started by passing a needle through to top of the eye. The needle had to be made sharper and with a longer taper. I then seized the shroud pair to their deadeyes. I put enough tension in the line to just see my mast starting to pull out of line. After all the shrouds were on I put on the mizzen forestay. Same type of tension.
 
Shown are some of my rigging tools. A paint brush handle with  1/2 of a safety razor blade glued in cut the thread like it's not there.
The flush cutters cut the finest thread cleanly, better than scissors. They are Lundstrum brand. After wearing out several Xuron flush cutters I sprung for the good ones. Expensive but worth it seeing how fast the others wear out.
 
As you see the main shrouds going in you can realize why I'm working stern to bow. You can't get the foresays in otherwise.
 
Bruce