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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
Cowl Baffle
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Steam Grating
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted ) :
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Breast Beams
The aftermost beam on the Forecastle and foremost beam on the Quarterdeck are known as Breast Beams. These are shaped differently to the other beams in that they have a rabbet to accept the ends of the deck planking and a molded spurnwater on the top edge. There is also a decorative molding beneath the outer edge:
The beam was originally made from heavier stock in one piece to add strength to the edges of the decks. I chose to make them from three pieces - a "normal" beam, the rabbeted top and the molding. When all glued together there is no difference apparent as the joints are hidden.
To cut the molding I filed a scraper from a square ended Xacto blade :
To attach the moldings I used a High Strength PVA glue named Rapi-Bond which I found recently. This stuff sets almost as fast as thick CA, and has a lot more bond strength than the Fullers Maxbond I've used to date :
Some pics of the moldings being fitted :
Danny
the fore
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks Spyglass :D .
Lodging Knees
Work has started on the quarterdeck Lodging Knees. I've made these using the same techniques as earlier lodging knees, using card templates to get their shapes :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Grant, Adam, John and Maury.
Cast Knee
There is a knee alongside the aftmost sweep port that needs a bit of shifting to clear the port. This is achieved in a similar manner to the much earlier "Casting" of some of the Frames :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks Popeye, John, Kevin, Grant, Aldo and Tony.
Not as hard as it looks John and Popeye - the strakes could be inserted from each end (they meet behind a bulkhead ).
Been like that almost since "Day 1" Grant . But I'm not complaining .
I've finished and fitted all the port side hanging knees. A few need their tops sanded slightly to match the tops of the beams. Most of them will be almost invisible when the deck planking goes on, but I'm not sure which ones can be caught a glimpse of so I detailed them all. The three in the middle of the pic will DEFINITELY be invisible, but hey ..... we all know they're in there :
A view through the port side stern light. The glue is still wet on the last one I fitted :
From the waist :
And through a starboard gunport :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the input Druxey and John. Point noted about the small amount of weight the beam would have carried.
The problem I could see was how they would have bolted the Lodging Knees to the beam. Maybe I went with "overkill", but that's the way I would have done it if I were building the ship .
Quarterdeck Hatch Coamings
I've made and fitted the Coamings for the quarterdeck hatches and companions, along with the "packers" for the Capstan Step (pic 2 below). The hatches taper slightly in width from fore to aft.
All the coamings have a 2" roundup except the aftmost one. This one will have a clerestory light fitted above it and is therefore straight on top, although the bottom has a roundup to match the beam (as they all do).
The foremost coaming hasn't been finished yet - I took the pic now to show my method of ensuring a perfect fit in the corners. Each lapped joint has been cut slightly oversize, the pieces glued in, and then trimmed to align with the sides of the head ledges and coamings. This coaming is slightly wider than the others.
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
And thanks again to John, Mark and Pygothian .
All the quarterdeck lodging knees are now completed.
As Beam #14 couldn't be supported by a Hanging Knee due to being only 5 (scale) inches above the quarterlight opening, I came up with an alternative solution. I've made a 5" x 7" Angle Bracket which bolts through the frames and into the lodging knees either side of the beam.
I used two pieces of 0.040" brass to which I soldered 8 "bolt heads". These were then blackened and epoxied in :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the kind words Sherry, John, John and Popeye .
I've marked and drilled the holes for the treenails on both decks. As most of the planks (apart from the Kingplank) are no wider than 8" they only get one treenail.
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for looking in, and the kind words John, Michael, Grant, Joe, Nils, Randy, Jeff, Gerty, Ron and Ben - much appreciated .
Bulwark Spirketting
I've fitted all the Bulwark Spirketting that I intend to do. The Port side is completely covered, and I've fitted half of them to the Starboard side Quarterdeck to cover an error I made very early in the build - about eight of the frame Toptimbers were a couple of millimetres short. I didn't discover this until WELL after the time had passed to correct them .
The piece above the Cathead was rather interesting to make :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for checking in again Michael, Jeff and Brian.
Making the Timberheads
There are 40 Timberheads to fit on Vulture - 16 on the forecastle and 24 on the quarterdeck. Almost every one has different angles cut into them, as they are vertical to the frames but are also following the sheer of the decks in the longitudinal direction.
I made a jig to hold the pieces while I cut and file them to shape. The jig's angles will be recut as I progress along each deck - it remains to be seen whether this idea will work, but I'm fairly confident it will.
I've cut a shoulder into the bottom of them to give them added strength where they go through the planksheers. They also fit into the top of each frame by 1.5mm :
The first one fitted - only 39 to go :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Mark, Grant, TJ, Tony, Bill and Elmer .
I've made all 10 Hances. I've used a simplified design eliminating the fancier rolled scrolls on most of them - they were hard enough to carve out the way I've done them .
The upper ones on the forecastle and quarterdeck have been scarfed out to fit to the planksheers :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you John - I like it now .
A small "Tutorial" on how I made the Hances.
One trick I learned long ago is to make small pieces that are awkward to hold on the end of a long piece of stock which can be used as a handle for more control.
First I Milled the inside curve. These will all come out the same for the four of this type - the planking is finessed to fit the radius :
Next the outer curve is sanded down to follow the shape of the inner one. I started off with the Byrnes disc sander and finished with a sanding stick :
I could only use the molding scraper for the straight grained section :
The curved sections were cut with a very narrow Xacto chisel :
The piece will be cut off the longer stock when it's all cleaned up.
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
OK, here you go Ben and the others who commented on my Hances v1.0 - I've remade the Planksheers and the first Hance using a dark shade of Swiss Pear. I'm much happier about the result - crisper definition and far less chipping out. There are minor irregularities which you can see under high magnification, but to the eye they look pretty good if I say so myself . They will look even better when a finish has been applied.
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks John, it would have been a LOT more difficult without the jig .
All the timberheads are finished and installed. The pic below shows how much difference there was in the longitudinal angles, remember that the ones near the waist were straight :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Mark, overdale, Grant, John, Duff and Richard.
Entry Steps to the Waist
There are two sets of Entry Steps attached to the fixed gangways, one either side. These have "Winding" treads to transition from the curve in the gangways - quite tricky things to get right as the angles for the slots in the fore stiles are different to the aft ones.
I cut the fore slots at 30 degrees, and the aft ones at 27.5 degrees. This gave the required "twist" in the steps.
The pics will tell the story of how I made them :
Danny
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harvey1847 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks once again to John, Brian, Jeff, Pat, Tony and Sailor1234567890 .
Gangways and Gangboards
There is a Fixed Gangway either side of the break for the Quarterdeck to provide access to the quarterdeck from the upper deck and also to allow for boarding, and a Gangboard either side in the Waist to provide a walkway between the forecastle and quarterdeck.
The easiest solution to making the framing for the fixed gangway I could think of was to first edge glue the planking together, shape it correctly, and then build the framing onto it. I used Pear for the edging plank for a decorative contrast.
The second framing for the unplanked starboard side was copied from the resulting pieces :
The Gangboards are a simpler affair, consisting of two 9" boards which are affixed to the knees :
The installed assemblies :
Danny
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harvey1847 got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
Good night!
A small update. Just two pics. One about the lower deck clamp and the other about the thick stuff amidship.
Best wishes and happy happy days!
Daniel.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from proc94 in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Beautyful Ed.
Can you show us the secret recipy for the dark glue? I mean 3:1, 4:2, 5:1.5 ?? of PVA and black dye...
With the Triton I am only using white glue (PVA) and it is looking awfull when I sand the frames. An another one, Do you think that by adding this black dye, you "weak" the sustance, the glue or it´s something unreliable. (?) Maybe are silly questions.
Regards.
Daniel.
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harvey1847 reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello,
thank you also for the positive comments.
Here you can see at one glance all 20 carronades:
Here is a picture of the carronades on the rear deck:
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harvey1847 reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 31 – Aft Square Frames 3
The installation of the remaing full square frames has now been completed – back through frame 29.
Starting with frame 21, the cutting down line begins to rise. This is the line of the inboard faces of the frames adjacent to the keelson. However, unlike the 18thC RN ships, the keelson remains straight and horizontal all the way back to the stern post knee in these ships. So the tops of the full frames need to be notched as shown in the first picture – to accept the straight keelson.
This notching of the last several full frames increases the thickness – the molded breadth – of the lower part of the frames so that when the first half frame is reached there will be enough depth for that frame to be secured with horizontal bolts to the keelson/deadwood. That increased depth needs to be approached in a fair line so the inboard planking will lie flat on the frames with no steps up.
The next picture shows the last of the full frames installed – back to the filler piece atop the keel. The remaining aft frames will be bolted on the face of this filler and the keelson/deadwood with horizontal bolts – as was done at the bow.
This picture shows the gradually increasing height of the cutting down line over the last half-dozen or so frames. The straight lower keelson will fit into the notches.
The remaining three pictures show the framed hull at this stage – with the clutter of tools and debris removed..
Another foot or so of hull framing remains to be done – almost back to the ends of the two temporary ribbands.
The last picture gives some indication of the fairing of the hull at this stage. Only the pre-bevelling of the individual frames has been done so far. The frames appear to be fair with about 1/64”. Some adjustment in alignment of a few frames may reduce that further, leaving only a small amount of final sanding.
The next steps will be to refine the fairing of the floors on the inboard side prior to installing the remainder of the keelson. It is much easier to do this before the keelson is installed. With the two levels of the keelson installed, .the deadwood can be constructed. This will allow the half and cant frames to be set.
Since this will be the last post before Christmas, I will wish everyone the happiest of holidays and a great new year. Thanks for following these postings.
Ed
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harvey1847 reacted to Juan Muñoz Carrasco in La Pinta by Juan Muñoz Carrasco - FINISHED - Caravel - from Amati plans
Can you tell us the different grits of sand paper you used to sand it?
150 grit.
Regards,
Juan.
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harvey1847 reacted to WackoWolf in Starting Solidworks
I went to collage to learn AutoCAD and SoildWorks just for this reason. You do need a good amount of memory, I have 32 gig in my machine and can go up to 64 gig if needed. Yes it does use a lot of memory to do POF, the spline tool I use all the time also planes. I have to turn them off when I get to a certain part of the frame build or my eyes go nuts. Here is a pictures from last weeks work on the ship I am doing. The second pictures is showing some of the Planes that I am using, you will notice that is an older picture because of the amount of frames that are now done. Takes time. I am using 2010 version. I also learn after some time with working with the program how to crash it, I have done that more than once believe me. Once you know how it can me force to crash you really start to understand the program, it isn't as easy as one might think for this hobby but for other things that you might want to build it is easy to learn. Building ships is different in a lot of ways, but it can be done and I am so far doing it and learning more and more each time I make another frame. Just my option.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from billocrates in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Hello Ed!
Wiht that "cadency" of frames I am sure that you will end the hull in two moths or so...not two years!
Look what I have found about the treenail question. I have tried to translate it the best I could. The sketches talk by themselves but the way it was done in the XVIII century amazed me. It is the Rooth system, around 1752.
(1) A drill is made that pass through the external planking the frame and the interior planks; A treenail of the same diameter is then selected (for a “B” treenail type in this case*) except the head of it which is a few inches bigger; the length of the treenail should be one foot more than the hole drilled. The treenail is spread with lard and is introduce (2) with a hammer. When we reach to the head where the diameter is slightly more, we need to hammer strongly, that’s why the head is reinforced with spunyarn rope, this avoids the treenail to split. When it has been introduced to the maximum and it extends on the inner side, both heads are trimmed to the face of the planks (3) then a treenail wedge or spile is force in both sides of the treenail (4-5-6) so no free movement is allowed.
The sketches of the “blind treenails” talk by themselves so I am not going to translate the text of the same period.
Beautyful work and posts like always.
Daniel.
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harvey1847 got a reaction from Pete38 in HMS Triton 1773. POF. 1:48. Daniel
HO HO HO !
Here in Spain till December 22th – with the lottery day- we don´t “start” Christmas time, at least me, but anyway Happy Days to All!!. (I hate Christmas)
The Triton is growing and growing. I am having lots of fun with the interior works but the lower deck clamp has being feeling kind of pain in the neck. ¡’?·”@... cut the pattern, cut it, sand it, boiled it, let it dry, boiled again, clamp it… anyway four more pieces to go…
I made some clamps like Ed. I couldn´t find the screws and stuff Ed used to do his clamps but these work just right. They are not so fancy but I´m proud of them.
My intention is to make kind of a cross section amidships (thanks Rusty) and let a lot of spaces around to see the Structure, the ribs, the frames… We´ll see.
Here´s a pdf of the scarf for the thick stuff I am using in this kind of cross section. The scarf in the middle of the timber is being simulated with a blade and a pencil.
to be edit-
Right now I am working with the pump box (cad) cause is the next part I´ll do after the f deck clamp. The plant plan and the sheer plan are not aligned so I guess I´ll have to make a shortcut to somewhere…
Back to the workshop!
Daniel.