von stetina
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von stetina got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in FLOQUIL PAINT IS HISTORY
I'm bummed out. I was just getting used to Poly-scale after a life of Floquil use! The thinness of the coverage didn't hide fine detail.
Another company for RR colors is Scalecoat, but it stinks even worse.
I've used water based acrylics for some of my artwork, even under Automotive clear coats since 1976 or so. Not sure what brand I'll use for hobby type work now, but I'm going to stick with water based acrylics. After a lifetime of solvent based paint use it's time to clean out! The auto paint I used to use in my custom painting business gave me some NASTY hangovers!
Von Stetina
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von stetina got a reaction from druxey in swinging bumpkins
Hi John, it's a real problem, what they looked like and where?! It does seem like the front corner of the upper main channel might work. She had triangular lower studding sails. So maybe a boom something like a short studding sail boom. This sail info is mentioned right after the bumpkins.
This is the sort of piece that would be a nice touch on a model of this ship if I can be accurate.
Druxey, if you want to see what a bonified bumpkin looks like I'll try and get a photo of my neighbor feeding his Spotted [unintelligible Southern drawl name here] Hog Dogs. [some kind of mangey hound.] I have to speak very slowly and with small words a lot here. The accent is so thick sometimes it's like being in a foreign country! The converations on this site a real blessing to me.
Bruce
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von stetina got a reaction from mtaylor in Homemade Rudder Hinges
If you heat to dull red or almost that hot and let cool you will have soft pliable brass. [aneal
Von Stetina
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von stetina got a reaction from drtrap in Coppering wear
I assume the problem is the dark areas. I had a similar problem and decided to not seal my copper as once it is you're stuck. The only option would be to pull the offenders off, and replace with ones of the same finish. I've done the pull out and replace thing. It wasn't bad, but practice on a test piece first as it was a very delicate thing to do to not cause further damage. I don't know if it would have gone well if I'd used CA glue. Then it might take a peeling motion that ruins the overlaping edges. Try it out if you need to on a test and see if you can pull out instead of peeling. You might luck out.
I simply re- cleaned the bad spots. It's been several months now and it's all looking the same. If the difference is too bad on the cleaned spots the whole hull needs to be re-cleaned. I used Brasso, then an autobody pre-cleaner for auto painting to remove it's residue. No sealer will keep it shiney forever.
Von Stetina
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von stetina got a reaction from glennb17 in What is the best glue for cast metal parts?
Roughening the two surfaces to be joined is a big help in the strength dept if you can do it. It gives what is called "tooth." The joint will be much stronger.
Von Stetina
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von stetina got a reaction from druxey in BEESWAX FOR SHIP MODEL RIGGING
I was informed by Druxey, a very accomplished modeler on this site, that beeswax is slightly acidic and may cause deterioration down the line. I was told to use conservators wax and am looking into it. In this thread I was told that Longridge used it. Underhill used shellac. This looks OK on my standing rigging test. All of these would knock some fuzzies down I guess, but they should be burned off. A spirit lamp with alcohol works great as it's a cool flame. I've been using a barbacue lighter too, works great.
By the way...the linen would make a very good slow fuse. Be careful!
Von Stetina
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