Jump to content

Sharpie Schooner by hopeful - FINISHED - Midwest - Scale 1:32


Recommended Posts

Hi Mates.

 

(Post #1 of  my Sharpie Schooner Build Log)

 

The purspose of this log is to repost my  Midwest Sharpie Schooner build log. The project was my first build and the kit is considered an entry level project. 

 

The vessel is characterized by having a flat bottom and a skeg rather than a keel. I enjoyed the build immensely for many reasons. I had a lot of help from the forum while building the vessel and any success that I had along the way was in great part due to their kind and patient assistance.

 

Photo 1 - Box art and kit components. The drawings and plans were very good and easy to follow. The price of the kit is approx. $75 USD.

 

 

bth_DSC_0003copy.jpg

 

Photo 2 - Finished vessel arrived at by following the prepared plans and instructions. Photo is from box art.

 

bth_DSC_0002copy-1.jpg

 

Along the way I decided to bash the kit by trying to more closely replicate an ocean going Sharpie Schooner of the mid 19th century that sailed the eastern coast of the USA from New England to Florida. Two photos of the type vessel gained from research are posted for reference.

 

Photo 3

 

bth_NorthCarolinaSharpie.jpg

 

Photo 4

bth_SharpieSchoonerIowa2005.jpg

 

 

At this point I would like to show a few pics of my completed vessel.

 

Photo 5

FinalPhotoforForum010.jpg

 

 

Photo 6

FinalPhotoforForum009.jpg

 

Photo 7

FinalPhotoforForum011.jpg

 

 

I will post, lol, an album of the completed vessel in the Gallery shortly.

 

From here I will post the build log as to how the vessel  was constructed including how to make the sails.

 

Thank you for looking in on the build.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

"there is wisdom in many voices"

 

Completed: Midwest Sharpie Schooner, kit bash

Current:       MSW Sultana

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

(Post #2 of my Sharpie Schooner Build log.)

 

Russ:  Thanks for stopping by.  It is always good to hear from you and thanks for reposting your ongoing Biloxi Schooner build. I enjoy looking and learning from your builds. Perhaps we will see some of your small boat builds reposted as well.  BTW, thanks to you, I  have all my photos saved at photobucket. My photos from the site transfer easily to the new MSW site, though I am having problems uploading them to the gallery. Will figure that out along the way.

 

Since this is a repost I will continue to number the posts and each photo. In the event a new builder of the Sharpie Schooner wants to ask questions they can refer to a post number as well as a photo number, e.g., regarding your post #2,  photo 7, etc.

 

Familiarise yourself with the instructions and refer to them often.......that goes for the drawings as well. Take your time and be patient with yourself. The adage "haste makes waste" is never more true than when building a boat!

 

Photo 8

 

Shows the false keel and bulkheads removed from the die-cut part sheets from the kit.  Use care when removing the parts and number each part and where they are located on the false keel. Check to make sure the false keel is perfectly straight. If not, you must take action to make it straight. 

 

bth_DSC_0002-1.jpg

 

Photo 9

 

When gluing, I use PVA white glue, the bulkheads to the false keel make certain they are square. Time and patience with this step will reward you later.

 

bth_DSC_0012.jpg

 

Photo 10

 

Shows the false keel is perfectly straight, yeah!

 

bth_DSC_0011-1.jpg

 

Photo 11

 

The bulkheads are square to the false keel and ready for the next step in the build.........adding the deck

 

bth_DSC_0002.jpg

 

 

Thanks for looking in and happy building.

 

Bye for now,

Hopeful aka David

 

"there is wisdom in many voices"

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

 

Post #3 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

Russ:  Gee, how did I miss your completed projects list. I went through your Skiff build log and enjoyed it all over again, super stuff. I am hopeful in a years time to see all the former build logs re posted!!!

 

Here we go again with some more steps in the build:

 

First, before doing any work on the deck make sure that step 9 on page 9 of the instructios is completed. The step requires the builder to add two strips of wood to the deck side of the false keel behind bulkhead f-3. The purpose of the wood strip is to force the deck to bend when glued to the tops of the  of  bulkheads. The curve of the deck enables water to run off the deck and out through the scupers.

 

Now to the deck.

 

Photo 12 

 

The instructions are very clear about how to remove, finish and attach the deck to the vessel. I used a pair of dividers to mark the distance between the deck boards, a flat 12 inch steel rule, and a mechanical pencil to scribe the lines on the deck.  Tip.......practice on the reverse side of the deck to get a feel for the task at hand. Do not remove the scribed deck pieces until after all the lines are scribed on the front side of the deck.

 

bth_DSC_0002-2.jpg

 

Photo 13

 

Shows the finished deck with which was stained with minwax golden oak and protected by two wipe-on/wipe-off coats matt polyurethane. Tip....to protect the deck add the color and the poly finish before gluing it to the deck. That way if you get PVA white glue on the deck it will wipe away with water easily without harming the deck.

 

bth_DSC_0001-1.jpg

 

Photo 14

 

Shows the deck glued to the bulkheads. Tip......PVA glue takes a bit of time to dry so have some rubber bands available to help hold the deck down. You may also use Yellow PVA Carpenters glue which dry much quicker than the PVA white glue. I use both types of PVA glue.

 

bth_DSC_0006.jpg

 

Photo 15

 

Tip...... protect the deck going forward by applying blue painters low tack tape. it is readily available at big box stores like Home Depot and at harware stores. Read the label and make sure you buy low tack tape........it is clearly marked. The tape should be removed and replaced once a month.

 

bth_DSC_0001-3.jpg

 

 

Net step is to add the transom.

 

Keep on and BFN.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Buck,

 

Thanks for your kind comments.

 

Great to hear from you and thanks for reposting your whale boat build.....love the little hatchet!!!!!  We all have learned a lot from you...great tips and techniques. Need to see more from you!

 

Stay in touch!

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi John,

 

Thanks for looking in and the encouragement. I remember way back when you were helping with the biuid of the vessel.Your guiding hand and advice was much appreciated. Though time consuming it is important to repopulate the site with as many build logs as possible.

 

After posting the Sharpie Schooner I will post my Sultana Build log.

 

Bye for now!

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #4 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

Gerty:  Thanks for you kind comments....too bad my thumbnails  will not enlarge to anything worth viewing, sad.  Am following your Willie L Bennett Skipjack build.....nice work!

 

Pete:  Thanks for your visit. Regarding sails, the best all around modeling book I have come accross is Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth ISBN 978-0-8306-2844--5. Book is available from Amazon.com at about $20USD. Best book investment I have made on the subject of boat building. Chapter 15 is all about sail making. Highly recommend the book.

 

This post is about adding the transom to the vessel.

 

The builder is faced with several challenges when attaching the transom properly. Took me two trys. I had to make second transom out of scrap stock!.

 

Steps....

1. carefuly remove the transom from the diecast sheet.

2. Dry fit and sand the top surface of the transom until it fits the curvature of the deck as perfectly as you can make it. See photos 17 & 18. Fitting the tansom correctly to the underside of the deck will prevent many problems later.

3. Carefully attach the transome to the false keel and to the underside of the deck making sure it is square. I used Super Glue which was a mistake. Better to user PVA yellow carpenters glue which sets quickly but can be removed if necessary with water.  Tip..... add a block to each side of the false keel following its angle. By doing so,you will have creaded a broader surface to provide stability when attaching the transom and bending the deck at the same time.

4. Do not sand the edge deck surface to meet the transom at this time.

 

 

Photo 16

 

Shows proper angle of the transom when installed. Note how far the deck extends beyond the transom on my model.

 

bth_DSC_0007-1.jpg

 

 

Photo 17

 

bth_DSC_0030-1.jpg

 

Photo 18

 

bth_DSC_0022-1.jpg

 

Photo19

 

bth_DSC_0019-1.jpg

 

Good luck installying the transom. Take time and get it as perfect as you can to avoid problems when adding the chines.

 

Next step 21 on page 11 on the instructions.........Cockpit floor.

 

BFN!

 

Cheers,

Hopeful AKA David

 

“there is wisdom in many voices”

 

Completed: Midwest Sharpie Schooner (Reposting the build log at present)[/size]

 

In progress: MSW Sultana (Need to repost the log and keep on with the build)[/size]

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #5 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

This is where I began to deviate from the kit instructions regarding the order of assembly.  I intend to bash the kit to build a Sharpie vessel with more details to reflect and ocean going sharpie as stated previously.

 

Here goes....

 

Build next step:  Add the main and foremast steps per instructions 33-36 located on pages 14 and 15. See them installed in photo 23 below.

 

At this point I made a jig to hold the vessl to help with the build. The jig when fitted to a 360 degree revolving vise is excellent for topside work. The vise shown is about 10 lbs. and stays put. The vise is mounted to a board that can be clamped to my work bench, or, be moved out of the way when not clamped.

 

Photo 20

 

Jig made from scrap wood pieces from the kit. Check out photos 23 & 24 below for a good visual reference to help dimension the jig. The slot is the exact width of the false keel.

DSC_0012-2.jpg

 

Photo 21

 

DSC_0013-2.jpg

 

Photo 22

 

 

DSC_0021.jpg

 

Photo 23

 

DSC_0015-1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Photo 24   Red clips tension the jig against the false keel.

 

DSC_0017.jpg

 

Let me know if you have any questions about the jig.

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To the staff Admirals and Moderators,

 

After working with the new site for a few days I really like it alot, well done! Many improvements over the old site for sure.

 

I save my photos to Photobucket (free hosting site) and then upload them to my build log. Have not yet figured how to get the photos from Photobucket into the gallery at this point but will keep on trying.

 

Keep on, you are appreciated!

 

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

My second jig allowed me to work hands free on the bottom up side of the vessel.

 

The jig was made from scrap. The dowels are the same diameter as the masts. Note the pin holes high on the dowels and well as those located lower down.

 

DSC_0008-1.jpg

 

Photo 26

 

 

The pins prevent the dowels from moving downward as I work on the vessel. The distance betwees the dowels is the same as the distance between the mast holes. See the ships plans. Note I marked a line on both the base and dowels to locate the dowels properly if I ever want to remove the pins.

 

DSC_0009-3.jpg

 

Photo 28

DSC_0006-5.jpg

 

Photo 29

 

The top of the dowels pass through the mast steps and stop as the base of the mast holes.

 

 

DSC_0007-2.jpg

 

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

BFN!

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

 

"there is wisdom in many voices"

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Gerty,

 

Thanks for looking in. Agree that the larger photos are better for helping other builders. Just had to figure out how to make them larger but not too large. I guess they are about the same size as yours.....800 X 600 is what I am using which is the same as the old site.

 

Thanks for the compliments of my finished build.

 

BFN

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build

 

Next Step is to add the keel strips and the chines. See steps 37-48 of the instructions.

 

Photo 30

 

Dry fitting the components.

 

DSC_0008.jpg

 

Photo 31

 

Nice smooth run of the chine from bow to stern.

 

DSC_0006-2.jpg

 

photo 32

 

Keel stirps and chines glued in place and trimed to length. I also faired the outer edge of the bulkheads and chines at this time (see page 18 regarding fairing).

 

DSC_0006-6.jpg

 

Photo 33

 

Transom cap (step 49 instructions) set in place and glued.  Trim the stern end of the deck flush with the transom cap at this time.

 

DSC_0009-4.jpg

 

Photo 34

 

Time to add the stem piece (see steps 62 & 63 page 20).

 

DSC_0014.jpg

 

Photo 35

 

Stem added.

 

DSC_0019.jpg

 

Photo 36

 

Before I forget, add a short piece of wood to build up the false keel just behind the botton of the skeg and running to the top center of the transon.  Otherwise you will have trouble installing the bottom boards later. This piece of wood is not on the plans.

 

DSC_0022.jpg

 

See you later with the next post.

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI Mates,

 

Thia continues my repost.

 

Post # 6 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

Returned to complete steps 24-32 of the instructions to  build the cargo hold and the cabin.

 

Photo 37

 

SharpieDEC11003.jpg

 

Photo 38

 

SharpieDEC11002.jpg

 

Photo 39

 

A Nanook shows up at the building site for the first time intent to follow the build. Looks to be a 1500 pound male.

 

To make the black window openings for the interior of the cabin and storage areas I painted strips of wood black and glued them in place before gluing on the hatch covers. Used white gesso as primer followed by egg shell white (white with a hint of grey) acrylic paint. Used gesso followed by black acrylic paint fot the black srips.

 

SharpieDEC11-Roofson004.jpg

 

Photo 40

 

SharpieDEC11-Roofson008.jpg

 

Photo 41

 

SharpieDEC11-Roofson001.jpg

 

Repost of build will continue shortly.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI All,

 

POST #7 of my Sharpie Build Log

 

The blue tape has been readded to the deck for protection.

 

Next, the hatch covers were added, see steps 66-69 and 135-137.The hatch slides and covers are painted with gesso followed by egg shell white before being glued to vessel. I painted the companioway door medium grey as well. Again follow instructions colors as you prefer.

 

Photo 42

 

SharpieSchooner-PlankHull004.jpg

 

Short post.

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

 

 

 

.

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #8 of my Sharpie Build Log

 

Photo shows the additon of the starboard side strake followed by the port side strake, see step 52-56.

 

Photo 43

 

SharpieSchooner-PlankHull001.jpg

 

Photo 44

 

SharpieSchooner-PlankHull005.jpg

 

Next Step was to add the two bottom planks, see  steps 57 & 58.

 

Photo 45

 

SharpieSchooner-PlankHull008.jpg

 

Photo 46

 

At this point I was getting a bit impatient so I went ahead a worked on the masts, booms, gaffs, bowsprit,and sampson post. I just wanted to see the build looking like a vessel. All the components were dry amd removed prior to continuing on.

 

 

SharpieSchooner-mastsandbooms001.jpg

 

More to come.

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HI,

 

The repost saga continues and I thank all builders who have taken the time to repost their logs!!!

 

Post #9 of my Sharpie Schooner Build

 

Time to build a simple cradle to work the vessel from here.

 

Photo 47

 

SharpieSchooner-RailunderBumperInstall00

 

Photo 48

 

SharpieSchooner-RailunderBumperInstall00

 

Now to make the toe rail. Take a look at steps 89-92 of the instructions as to how to make the toe rail per kit instructions. The toe rail I made is different from the one in the instructions as it employs many more scuppers similiar a real vessel.

 

Photo 49

 

Toe rail prior to be added to the vessel.

 

SharpieSchooner-ToerailsandScuppers016.j

 

Photo 50

 

Jig made to make the toe rail.

 

SharpieSchooner-ToerailsandScuppers006.j

 

Photo 51

 

Bending the toe rail.

 

SharpieSchooner-ToerailsandScuppers024.j

 

Photo 52

 

Gluing toe rail to vessel.

 

SharpieSchooner-ToerailsandScuppers012.j

 

Photo 53

 

Finished!

 

SharpieSchooner-InstallToeRailsRudder001

 

More to follow......................

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for the kind comments. At the time of the build it was anything but easy for me to build but I muddled through with a lot of help from the forum.

 

Thanks fo following the build. 

 

BFN,

David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #10 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

Photo 54

 

Adding the rub rail, combing, and gammoning iron.

 

SharpieSchooner-InstallBumperRailandmeta

 

Photo 55

 

Making the gammoning iron from a piece of copper tube. A great exercise. I now make metal parts from sheet brass, much easier.

 

SharpieSchooner-InstallBumperRailandmeta

 

Photo 56

 

I changed the design of the tiller and rudder from an inboard to outboard design. After a few tries this photo shows the final design.

 

SharpieSchooner-RedesignSkegRudder007.jp

 

Photo 57

 

Time to add the water line.

 

SharpieSchooner-Waterlineset-up008.jpg

 

Photo 58

 

Add the functional rudder and waterline. The main boom horse is also finished. Note I added sliders to the window openings and combing around the forward storage locker and the main cabin.

 

SharpieSchooner-RudderSlidersonWindows00

 

Next comes paint, me thinks!

 

BFN

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mates,

 

Post #11 of my Sharpie schooner Build Log

 

Hull painting continues.....

 

Photo 59

 

Please note that I laid Timiya tape, comes in many different widths, to keep the paint below the water line. To avoid the paint from bleeding under the tape, I first applied a very light coat of clear acrylic at the lower edge of the tape.....keep it a thin coat!!!! 

 

SharpieSchooner-Waterlinebottomredleadpa

 

Photo 60

 

First of 3 coats of red oxide acrylic paint.  Each coat was sanded to 400 grit before poceeding with the following coat.  In the end the paint was as smooth as glass without any imperfections.  Haste makes wast when not taking time to get it right.

 

SharpieSchooner-Waterlinebottomredleadpa

 

Photo 61

 

Hull and rudder paintwork completed.

 

SharpieSchooner-RudderpaintedoxideRed003

 

Photo 62

 

SharpieSchooner-RudderpaintedoxideRed002

 

One must be very patient with paint work. Some of the builders on the site are masters at brush painting; so good  their paintwork looks like air brush work.

 

More to come......

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Post #12 of my Sharpie Build Log

 

Photo 63

 

At this pont I began to make metal parts. Photo shows my equipment all of which was bought for under $75USD. Do not be afraid to learn to silver solder.  All it takes is some practice.  Check out Russ's practicum on the subject and get started.

 

SharpieSchooner-Silversolderingtools005.

 

 

Here are the steps I took to make the ring for the end of the bow sprit. Most other metal parts were made using the same approach.

 

Photo 64

 

SharpieSchooner-One-pieceBand002.jpg

 

Photo 65

 

SharpieSchooner-One-pieceBand004.jpg

 

Photo 66

 

SharpieSchooner-One-pieceBand007.jpg

 

Photo 67

 

SharpieSchooner-One-pieceBand008.jpg

 

Photo 68

 

SharpieSchooner-One-pieceBand009.jpg

 

Photo 68A

 

Metal parts for masts.

 

SharpieSchooner-mastbowspritbooms012.jpg

 

Photo 69

 

SharpieSchooner-mastbowspritbooms014.jpg

 

More to come......

 

BFN,

Hopeful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Post #13 of my Sharpie Schooner Build Log

 

Photo 70

 

Added chainplates and bob stays.....brass parts primed and painted!

 

SharpieSchooner-Chainplateanddeadeyeinst

 

Photo 71

 

Deck compoments added including eye bolts, cleats, and main and fore mast boom horses (travelers).

 

SharpieSchooner-Chainplateanddeadeyeinst

 

Photo 72

 

Two methods of making rings to connect the deadeyes to the chain plates.

 

First twisted wire

 

SharpieSchooner-maplehoopschainplates020

 

Photo 73

 

Second was making a ring with solver soldered joint crimped around deadeye. I used this method. Bright piece is a dime to show scale.

 

SharpieSchooner-deadeyemaplemasthoops001

 

Photo 74

 

 

Made mast hoops and mast coats. The mast hoops were mde of edge grain pine, the mast hoops of basswood.  Mast hoops can also be made of card with wonderful results. 

 

SharpieSchooner-deadeyemaplemasthoops003

 

Photo 75

 

To show scale of mast hoops!

 

SharpieSchooner-HoopsScalethreesisxtyfou

 

Sails are next.

 

BFN,

Hoperful aka David

Edited by hopeful
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...