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I agree about buying direct from Jotika. However, you can probably find really good acrylic paints in the local crafts store. I use artist's acrylics and find that they are very good and very inexpensive.



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I don't know how the yellow compares, but model expo has a yellow ochre color....a note on their acrylics though, they work best when slightly watered down (I use ketchup portion cups like from costco) otherwise they are a bit thick.

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I think Caldercrafts orginal idea was to make an authentic 18th century paint. I read some original info on their enamels that warned that since they were authetic they might contain some toxic pigments used in that era :huh: . Their current water bourne line is definitely "green" :) . Iron oxides were  the pigments of choice for paints of that era. Colors are created by heating rust with varying degrees of oxygen.


I have tried Admiralty's WB acrylics and found them to be very good. I had a chance "AHA" moment recently when I used an electric piant shaker designed for model paints on the Admiralty red ochre. The colors were much better then when I just using a battery powdered stirrer. As for viscosity, acrylics can "body up" when they are left standing too long. Before using them, subject them to shearing via the stirrer or shaker. Only then decide if you want to add diluent. Use distilled water as diluent or whatever Admiralty recommends for thinning. :piratebo5: Never use tap water unless your tap is connected to an RO unit.


Another consideration is how you are applying the coating. An ideal brushing viscosity often is not ok for spraying. Ideal viscometrics are also determined by the porosity of the substrate. Bottom line test the paint and your application device on a scrap or non-critical area before going "totus porcus" on your entire model.


Hope this helps


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