samueljr

To everyone who responded - THANKS! I've been experimenting with a few different solutions and I'm leaning towards the less is more philosophy. The scupper lining is a great detail if subtle enough - too much and it looks like a gaping hole in the waterway. I'm either going to go with Druxey's acrylic paint solution (thanks David) or just a thin paper for for the lip. The issue other than size is the consistency of the shape. Thank's again to everyone Stay well Sam

Hi I'm working on a commission project in 1/4" scale and am looking for a good treatment/method of the internal lining of the scuppers. I've got (I think) the exterior discharge under control but am looking for the inboard / intake (waterway) side. I recently saw a thread where the builder did a nice job of it and I can't remember the thread. It wasn't focused on the scuppers, it was just one of the details illustrated. Any help and/or direction would be appreciated. Moderators, if this should be in on deck thread please move Thanks! Sam

Thank you to all for the "likes" through the project and for the words of encouragement. It's not always easy (or comfortable) not following the crowd. Michael, I am an unapologetic kit basher and have several on my work bench in various states of completion. I just don't know where I'm headed next. Also I've been given the opportunity to throw my hat in the kit design ring (again) by one of the Manufacturer/Sponsors of MSW. I've stated the initial beta testing of bulkheads )so far - so good) and will know in the near future if we're going to move forward with the project. Sam

Well this is it. The BARGE is complete and on it's permanent base. For my purposes as I've said there will be no flags, sweeps or internal decorations. Thanks to everyone for checking in. On to the next project ............................................

Good morning Russ Thank you! The build is done except for the base which I'm just starting to construct. I'm actually happy with the overall appearance given my goal from the outset. Once it's mounted I'll break out the camera and take a few pics. The phone I'm using is picking up a lot of red. Here's a little better shot of the figure head. It's about 2'-08" in scale. It's a little taller than I set out for but it looks proportionally right. My wife wants to know why it's tongue is sticking out? LOL! Are you going to be able to make the February meeting in Rochester. Sam

Figure head and additional scroll added. The only item left is the tiller (it's been turned, I'm deciding how to finish it) There will be no frieze inserts, flags or oars on the build. Only a simple base.

Just a quick update on the BARGE's bow. I've ordered another set of the cast scroll pieces from Syren and am pretty certain they will be added on. I've attached a pic of the lion figure head I'm considering. I made it out of sculpey. What you see is only a silhouette (it's about a 1/16" thick and is glue sticked on the stem. I think the proportion looks acceptable. It's about 1-3/16" tall so I'm holding close to my goal of about 2'-03" in scale. The black line at it's feet is where the bottom of the existing bow wreaths are. Sam

Well working my way through the carvings. I decided to go with the resin set from Syren. They are beautifully done and have a great amount of detail for such thin and small elements. The process I followed to transform (?) them is the following After washing they were primed with the paint I had mixed to match the cherry of the kit. It is close (not exact) but provides a good foundation color I then scraped a couple of earth tone pastels ( a brown and a more golden color) into powder and dusted the pieces I then dry brushed them from the inside sides of a can Golden Oak stain. This did a couple of things it started to create more depth on the pieces' edges and also gave a little luster with the oil from the liquid When this was dry I very lightly swept the pieces with a brush of acrylic sepia brown and buffed with a soft tooth brush As I've been saying all along I am trying to mimic the style of some of the Eastern European builders. Don't know if I've got it but I think I'm close. I have to decide what to do with the stern. The blue tape is holding the strap on currently. I am debating whether to add in some scroll from the half -wreaths forward above the middle molding. I am also toying with the idea of a lion figure head. I've started sculpting one that would be about 2'-03" in scale so as not to over power the lines. ODF attached. ????????????????????? Sam BARGE LION MOUNTED 022718.pdf

Thanks Jim I stated when this started (so looooong ago) that I wanted to try to get a more older look to it. Say along the lines of Alex's CUMBERLAND (and please I would never even dream I am close to that level of building) just trying to get that look. Sam

Early New Year's resolution - FINISH BARGE! The pics aren't that good (taken with an old IPhone) The cherry wood has taken on a nice warm hue with the cut golden oak stain. The black is Winsor Newton Galleria Mars Black. The frieze panel frames were actually "washed" with a thinned down paint I had color matched to a stained scrap piece of the cherry wood from the kit. It took the "edge" off of the boxwood color and with the char bleeding through a bit it matched on tone to the build. The paint is the base color I am going to use on the castings. I purchased the resin set from Syren and will use the paint and then weathering powders to simulate the cherry of the kit (hopefully) Hope everyone is doing well and is having a great holiday season Sam

Joe Do yourself a favor and bash the kit against a wall, on the floor , a nearby table top - any hard surface will do. Whatever you decide - PLEASE leave me or any mention of me out of this. What I designed NEVER made it into production - EVER!!!! Any questions, comments, or complaints should go to the kit's (proto-type, manual, plans) designer - BOB CRANE care of Model Expo Sam

Marsalv Outstanding, what else to say. I see you listed 3,750 hours, any idea of what the cost for the build was? Congratulations Samuel

Yes it was an aftermarket product I'll get it done.

I will try. What width am I shooting for including the molding (which added a "skinny" 1/16")? Back to the 5/64th's? Thank's Sam

OK so I skipped a few steps here but this is where I'm at. It's been pretty by the book (kinda') As I stated initially I wanted a deeper color scheme so I've opted for a first coat of 50-50 thinner and minwax golden oak stain and then a full strength (lightly applied) of golden oak. I then hit everything with a wipe on poly. The paint is a windsor newton galleria black (the usual 97 (LOL) thin coats). I have ordered cherry sheets to make the lower molding out of cherry to match the finish. The top moldings are ripped from scrap from the kit. The bow is painted full black as I saw some images of barges with a full field of color. I thought the paint between moldings looked a little "race stripey" for my tastes. The carvings (or in my case all castings) will be a gilded gold with a dull finish. BTW I have purchased the resin castings from Syren and they are beautifully done. For those of you who are wondering why the keel is doubled the kit as designed CAN NOT withstand a fall from a table top to a concrete floor. After several attempts I was left with the option of re-enforcing the keel or starting over. I am thinking if continuing the frieze pattern onto the bench arms. I've attached a mock-up of it - opinions????? Also I have accepted Chuck's "challenge" and will be doing some additional carvings/details to the bow.............. to be continued Sam ARMS WITH INSERT030518.pdf

Well I've decided on a finish. As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color. I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off. I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine. Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input Sam

Thanks Ben That's actually what I'm using. The small surfaces combined with the tight grain make it tough to get it to bite in sometimes. Have you started working with any finishes yet? Using scrap from the sheets I've laid down a first coat of 50/50 (mineral spirit/tung oil) with a second coat of tung on top. It' will have to dry over night. Not excited about it so far. Reminds me of wood work/trim you find in houses. No depth. Once dry I'm going to try a wash of burnt sienna and a wash of yellow ochre to see if I can get a deeper patina. I've looked into bithumen(sp?) but not certain if that would be the way to go. If I don't like any of those I may take a look at some of the tinted Danish Oils. Also when I find the finish I want when do I apply it? I know the directions finish progressively, but if it's a two or three step process how to keep it consistent through the build? Sam

Looks good Ben What glue are you using? Sam

Chuck The jig does make it easier for squareness, alignment and setting a solid base for planking. But like any "tool" care must be taken to use it correctly and not to allow it's contribution(s) to lead to careless building habits. Chuck has designed and engineered a wonderful system for the builder to produce a plank on frame model but in no way is this reduced to a "slot A tab B" build. Care and patience as always should be taken to maximize the kit's attributes. Sam

I returned to the QA BARGE this weekend and was able to get all the frames assembled. Just a few observations; The directions are specific in stating that each frame set should be separated and installed individually and then assembled. This should be followed as it is easy to mix up the parts as there is in some cases only a slight difference in shape and mixing them up is easily possible. Once all the frames were assembled I attempted to fit them into their respective slots on the boards. Once again as per the directions there was some mild sanding required to get the tabs inserted under a gentle press fit and not pressured in. Although not pictured I have dry fit the keel on the assembly. As with the bulkheads some of the slots on the keel were tight on the frames. I took a scrap piece of the cherry and used it as a test fit throughout. With a sanding stick I gently touched up the bottom of the bulkheads where needed. That's it for construction this weekend. I will spend the rest of my "BARGE" time testing finishes on the scrap wood. I am leaning towards a tung oil finish (maybe with some type of sepia wash) or a satin poly wipe on. Those results (and hopefully the assembled keel/bulkheads) here next weekend. Sam

Ben I'm leaning towards the tung oil also. I'd like something a little "warmer" if that makes any sense in the finish. I haven't run any tests yet though. I've even given some thought to the process the "Russian Builders" use with bithuman (sp) but that may be too aggressive. Sam

Forgot to ask; What sealer are you using?

Ben How was the fit with the slots? Press fit as in directions or minor touch-up as per directions? Looking great Sam

ok just thinking outloud..........

Ben Looks good. What are your thoughts on pre-scoring the bulkheads manually to facilitate an easier release later. Any pics of your sealed keel assembly? If yes what did you use? Sam