rope stain

[Boccherini]

What is the best sort of stain for ropes, water or spirit based? Does it matter?

 

Grant.

[Garward]

Hi, Grant! Stain for ropes at water works more slowly (dries more long), usually it is necessary to carry out process several times, but to receive uniform coloring of ropes easier. Stain for ropes at alcohol works quickly, but certain skills that coloring of a rope turned out uniform are necessary. The end result in both cases it is possible to receive the identical. 

[S.Coleman]

On the topic of rope staining, I'm looking for a glue that does not stain the threads when it dries, any ideas?

[Garward]

Hi, Scott! If you mean glue for fixing of knots on ropes, practically doesn't leave traces shellac.

[Boccherini]

Thanks for the responses. Garward, what skills are neccessary to get a uniform colouring on the rope?

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Modeler12]

What is the best sort of stain for ropes, water or spirit based? Does it matter?

 

Grant.

Have a look at a former post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/702-coloring-handmade-rigging-line/

 

My recommendation is a good quality water based stain. It dries fast for thin lines and rope, coats very uniformly with one application and comes in a multitude of colors including a very dark brown (almost black). Check out Espresso by General Finishes.

[Chazz]

It's not a stain but it works the same way. I have had good results using SHOE WAX (not cream) shoe polish - the kind with carnauba wax - instead of stain and beeswax. It comes in many colors of brown and black, and lays down the fuzz like beeswax and dries hard.

I don't particularly like the stark blue-black of the usual black thread supplied in kits; applying brown wax to the black thread gives a more realistic (to my mind) look.

 

Chazz

[Boccherini]

Jay,

thanks for the links/information.

 

Regards,

Grant.

[Modeler12]

I have been using spirt stain with great results but will try water based to see a comparison.

Brian, I am not saying that stains based on 'spirits', as you say, are not good. It is just that I have been using this particular brand of stain for many years making furniture. I found that the water based stain goes on very smoothly, is easy to clean up and lasts practically forever. I am a former user of Miniwax and got tired of having the stuff dry up in the can and not give me the nice coverage I wanted. 

Using either one for staining lines and ropes may make very little difference.

That is a can of Verathan in the background. I use that for the final finish. It is also a water based version. The color of these cabinets was New Pine again by General Finishes.

Edited May 7, 2013 by Modeler12

[JerseyCity Frankie]

I'm putting in my two cents for Acrylic artist paint. Thined with water. When I stain line, I soak the line first by dunking it in water then wiping it off.  The thinned acrylic paint penetrates better if the line is wet first. To apply the color I just put a dab of thinned acrylic paint of the proper color on my fingertip and pull the line through my pinched fingers, then I wipe the line with a damp rag until I get off enough of the paint to suit my color need. The rag itself can be used as an applicator. The color I use is Burnt Umber with a little bit of Ultramarine Blue. Those two colors can be adjusted for a nice tan color, a pale grey color or even a nearly black color.

[lagrayjr]

I also use Minwax Stains, Jacobian for standing rigging and Fruitwood for running rigging. I like the slight variation in color  It is hard to believe you can get a better look but it can be a little messy to clean up. Laman

[Modeler12]

Jay,  are you a cabinet maker ?

Not as a profession, if that is what you mean. I just like to make saw dust. Have done so for many years in my spare time.

Besides furniture I have made wooden toys, garden gates, and a lot of scrap.

 

And Janos, I agree with you that a bit of variation is good in most cases. If your model is not supposed to represent a brand new ship but one that has been out at sea a lot, the running rigging will age, has to be replaced from time to time and would not look the same. I have seen pictures of 'modern' sailing ships in port that show all beautiful white lines hanging from the belaying pins, but I wonder how real that really is.

Edited May 10, 2013 by Modeler12

[Boccherini]

I went with a water based stain by Cabots, their interior maple stain. The full strength seems a little too dark. After some experimenting, I settled on a mix of 3 parts stain to 4 parts water. The picture shows the ropes slightly darker than they actually appear.

Thanks for the comments and opinions gentlemen.

 

 

Regards,

Grant.