FoxtrotHotel Posted June 18, 2019 Share #1 Posted June 18, 2019 I coated my hull with polyester resin. The container said it should completely cure and be dry to the touch in 2 hours, but after 2 days it still has wet/tacky spots, although most is completely dry. The instructions said 1 ounce of resin for every 10 drops of hardener, and I followed that explicitly, but I guess I didn't mix it well enough. What can I do to fix this and get everything dry? I still need to do a little sanding, and can't do that if it's still gunky. Should I wash it with acetone to dissolve the uncured resin, or wash it with hardener to try and cure the remaining unmixed portion? thibaultron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnLea Posted June 18, 2019 Share #2 Posted June 18, 2019 Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. I have had some success with polyurethane resin and whatever type is used in the fiberglass kits. thibaultron and mtaylor 2 Quote The closer you get to Canada, the more things will eat your horses. ~ T. King Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted June 19, 2019 Share #3 Posted June 19, 2019 I had to, several years ago, set a hull in my car's hatch back and park in the sun for a week to get the resin to set. The car stank for about two weeks after I took it out, but the resin finally set. mtaylor 1 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxtrotHotel Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share #4 Posted June 19, 2019 21 hours ago, JohnLea said: Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. I have had some success with polyurethane resin and whatever type is used in the fiberglass kits. Yeah, that seems to have mostly done it. Although a side effect seems to be it caused gas or water vapor to be emitted from the wood underneath, and that caused a lot of bubbling and even some detachment of filler between the wood and the resin, so I'm likely going to have to sand off most of the resin and re-fill. mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted June 19, 2019 Share #5 Posted June 19, 2019 I wonder if the resin used was old stock? thibaultron, JohnLea and mtaylor 3 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxtrotHotel Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share #6 Posted June 19, 2019 It's brand new Bondo resin I bought last week at a local hardware store. I'm pretty sure I just didn't mix thoroughly. I also used it to coat the inside of my hull and that cured perfectly. druxey, mtaylor and thibaultron 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted June 19, 2019 Share #7 Posted June 19, 2019 Well, that eliminates one variable! mtaylor and thibaultron 2 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted June 20, 2019 Share #8 Posted June 20, 2019 The resin used for autobody work, does not attach well to wood. Check out the epoxy resins used in marine applications. Those are designed for wood. Having said that, in the past I have used the Bondo type resins, and they have performed well on my models. I think the heat gun may be too hot, a slow gentle heat may be better. mtaylor 1 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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