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Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. Nice work! I'm here in SC also, and also a transplant.
  2. Your going to need to display this on a mirror, so that all the bomb bay detail can be seen!
  3. I have a friend, who used to do a lot of sailboarding on the Chesapeake Bay. That is until he looked down one day, and saw two 5 foot bull sharks swimming one on each side of him! Fresh water only now.
  4. That depends on the scale you are thinking of. Thought, in general, you would need to 3D print in plastic, and that brings in issues of failure of the plastic, over time due to the tension from the rigging. The fine detail plastics are brittle and quite weak, in thin sections.
  5. Denis: Download all the info from that thumb drive, now! Soak it as recomended, above. However, never trust it again. The Pepsi will have already started to damage the circuit board. 34 years of experience as a digital engineer speaking. Thumb drives are cheap, lost data is not.
  6. The last couple weeks I’ve been working on the legs for my HO layout. They are legs and book shelves combined. I had originally set them at about a layout height of 44”. This was convenient as I was able to put two workbenches under them. One for my computer, and one for a regular workbench. Since I built them though I have changed the plan for the layout(s) themselves, and have decided that I need to lower them by about seven inches, so that I can reach the back tracks on the new track plans. This still allows for three levels of books, but it will be too low for the workbenches, as there will not be clearance for me to see more than 6 inches or so of the surface, when sitting. The good news is that I will now have an additional 11 feet of three level two foot deep shelves. So a lot of the stuff that has been cluttering my shop will now have a home. With the workbench in the newly remodeled area of the shop, I will still be able to work on my models. The original track plan for this area was a 2x17 foot layout, the new one is a two section one, that’s comes out to 2x20 feet. Hence the need to stretch the fourth section from 5 to about 8 feet long. The picture below shows the lowering process. First I cut out the back of the legs/shelves, then I moved the layout supports down. In addition I notched the tops of the supports, and moved the front support from vertical to horizontal. This allows me to still slip full sized books into the top shelf. This seems like it should not take this long, but it involved moving a lot of things around that were on the shelves, as well as the boxes I had on the wire shelves mounted to the back of the legs. The legs will be two feet deep and about 20 feet long overall. They are freestanding in the middle of the shop. Cutting out the back of the book cases, first two sections 9 foot long overall. Notching out the sides of the lowered supports. The front piece moved to the top. The front of the second section was already a 1X2 so I left it as is. The work bench table will be moved to be level with one of the self levels, and become one of the shelves. The third section support moved down. I will notch this section when I rebuild the fourth section. The back of the fourth section cut down. The fourth section will be completely rebuilt. It presently is five feet long, and has what was my main workbench built in. This will all go away, saving only the legs. I will build a new support frame for this section, and it will be just short of eight feet long with three shelves. The workbench will be saved, and I will put it under the 9x11 oval third phase of the layout, probably as a slide out, as the third phase will be at the same height as these sections. There is no room in front of the legs to allow this to slide out where it presently sits.
  7. Best wishes for your bird!! Pets ARE family!
  8. I'm the one who responded. The mini lathe has been buried behind stuff, as I have been renovating the shop. In the near future however, a change from being a 7X10 (actually 7X8 (Harbor Freight lies)) to a true 7X16, is in the offing. I bought an extended bed kit from the Little Machine Shop, and now that the lathe has been moved to where I can get to it, I will be changing it over in the next couple months. For now I have been concentrating time and funds to my HO train stuff. (I managed to burnout part of my digital control system, and had to buy new parts), and invested in two Santa Fe prototype brass steam locos.
  9. Liked the fact your shower is better, did not like that standing is a thing of the past for you.
  10. I have not had a chance to use it yet, unfortunatly. Been busy renovating the shop, with what little spare time I have.
  11. Try adding a resistor to the cabin lights, this would make the console lights more noticible.
  12. Maybe they are planning to add curved track sections, in the future, and the slop is to allow the wheels to move to follow it.
  13. As bad as Bligh's reputation was, the captain of the ship that was sent to round up the muteniers was far worse. He, accidentily, ran the ship aground after catching the ones who stayed on the original island, and left them locked in the brig as the ship sank! One of the crew released them, against orders, as she went down! He then left them expossed without shelter, until the crew was rescued. I think only one was not hung, after all the rest testified that he had not been one of them, but was left, as the boat Bligh was set adrift on was too small to hold him, as well as the others. Bligh sailed the boat to a settlement, while accurately mapping the areas he sailed through. I believe the ship, sent to get them, was the "Pandora". The crewman who was spared, eventually returned to the island, to find that his native wife and children had died from one of the diseases brought by the other ships that had come later.
  14. Quite often the restrictor is in the screw portion of the head that attaches it to the pipe. If you can get someone to remove the head, you may be able to remove the resrictor washer, or drill it out.
  15. Been busy at work, and I'm rearranging the shop, now that the back section is "finished". I also was concentrating on getting the scroll saw setup, and I have been working on designing some 3D printed parts for my HO trains. I'll be continuing with the Dremel in a couple weeks. Yes, the thread will continue.
  16. Well, if you do use toothpaste, your model will, at least, be Minty Fresh!
  17. Just watched it on Amazon Prime. Quite a good movie, worth watching.
  18. If you are thinking of buying one of the several flavors of Mini-Lathes (7X10 to 7X16), or already own one, this is a must have book! I am not a professional machinist, nor would I claim to be a highly skilled one, just a hobbyist. I have, however, rebuilt two 12 inch Atlas lathes, and spent a fair share of time using them. I recently had to sell my last Atlas, and as part of the deal, picked up the new owners old Harbor Freight 7X10 mini-lathe. When I started with my Atlas lathes I bought several good books on using and maintaining a “Full Size” lathe, including the Atlas and Southbend manuals, and used much of what I learned. This book is the equivalent for the mini-lathes. This book is filled with chapters on the construction of various vintages of these lathes, discussions of how to adjust them for better precision, and work piece finish, and easy modifications to improve their range and usefulness. The book is also fair in pointing out the strengths and weaknesses of a mini-lathe. The book explains how to use the lathe for those who have never used one, as well as several projects that you can use to improve the lathe and your skills at the same time. I would recommend the book to those who have been using this type of lathe for a while, if only for the adjustment tips, examples of after-market accessories available, and the projects. Many of the adjustments are the same as for a larger lathe, but there are also many specific to these types.

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