A question about varnish.

[danbloch]

9 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

"The included instructions had me pencil in the lines and dots before the shellac went on. I don't really want to completely refinish the deck, (unless you think its a good idea), so I will try and scrape/sand it off first, or ill try the Goof Off. Can you explain what you mean by "reconsider your planking length and butt spacing?" Again, I am just following instructions. Did I do something poorly?"

 

It's good that you shellacked over the pencil marks. That will prevent the pencil lead from smearing if you try to remove the tape adhesive with solvent. I'd try the solvent, Goof Off or acetone, first. The adhesive will probably wipe off easily. If not, then try scraping. Scraping is the more radical option. If you need to, you can always scrape and sand the surface down to bare wood and refinish the whole thing. You wouldn't be the first of us who's done that. (Don't ask me how I know this!  )

 

Well, it's not that big of a deal, but black dots don't represent the appearance of a laid wooden deck. Metal fastenings through the planks into the deck beams are always covered with a wooden plug of the same species of wood used for the planking, or fastened with trunnels (pegs) and, from a distance, are virtually invisible. I don't know why the instructions would have one represent deck planking fastenings with a black pencil dot.  Metal fastenings are always set deeply into the deck planks and plugged with wood so that fastenings, which were often iron on older ships would not rust and would not stand proud when the deck wore down some. If trunnels (wooden pegs) were used to fasten the deck planks, they were wood-colored and not black. (Trunnels were often made of a slightly darker wood of a different species, frequently of locust.) The wood plugs or trunnels also permitted the decks to be "holystoned," that being "sanded" clean with flat stones having a hole in the center which permitted a long handle to be inserted so they could be swung back and forth like a mop. This kept decks, which were often covered with tar dripping from the rigging aloft, particularly in the heat of the tropics, clean, but at the cost of considerable abrasion of the wood over time. Holystoning wouldn't be possible if nail heads were standing proud of the surface of the deck.

 

As for the planking, I'm not certain of the scale of your model, and it is a somewhat esoteric detail which may not matter to you at this point in your modeling, but there are scale considerations with plank length. How long would the average deck plank be on your vessel? The longer the better. Planking stock was rarely longer than twenty-four to thirty feet long because that was the limit of what could be gotten out of the tree. A deck would not be planked with six foot planks. The distance between the planking butts (ends) should be somewhere in the range of 18' to 24'. On the model, that should be reflected in the applicable scale size. The length is significant because it affects the butt spacing in the same way bricks are laid so the vertical joints are staggered. If the plank butts all were placed on the same deck beam, that would be a very weak deck at that point. If the planks are staggered "like bricks in a wall" so that the butts are all as far apart as possible on each deck beam, that will yield the strongest deck structure possible. There are methods of laying out the deck planking to "stagger the butts." The below thread explains the methods of laying out deck planking in great detail. This is a small detail and failing to do it correctly doesn't "ruin" a model at all, but it is good to remember that a model is a collection of small details which  make up a whole. The more small details that are done right, the better the model. 

 

 

Its disappointing that the kit would have me recreate the plank's incorrectly, but I think I will chalk it up to a learning experience and vow to do better next time.  

[Bob Cleek]

8 hours ago, danbloch said:

Its disappointing that the kit would have me recreate the plank's incorrectly, but I think I will chalk it up to a learning experience and vow to do better next time.  

 It is indeed disappointing, but such errors are one of the drawbacks of kits generally. It's very difficult for anyone starting out to discern which kits are the really good ones. Fortunately, MSW contains a lot of information on kit quality that is invaluable in that regard. Kits provide valuable experience to one degree or another and, at some point, one realizes they've built enough kits that they can "ride a two-wheeler without training wheels" and start seriously kit-bashing and scratch-building.

 

In the grand scheme of things, it's a very small detail. Frankly, nobody other than an eagle-eyed modeling wonk is ever going to notice it and I'm sure to uninitiated eyes it will appear just as it ought to be. In fact, from an artistic perspective, the exaggeration of something that's supposed to be there but otherwise can't be seen at scale may well satisfy the eye of the beholder. Don't let it discourage you!  Our first models are never out best. Modeling is a process and it would quickly get boring if each successive model we build doesn't pose new challenges and new opportunities to "beat our personal best." Perfection is probably impossible, but the exercise of pursuing it offers continuing satisfaction from a hobby that can keep one interested for a lifetime. Do the best you can with her, as you obviously are. The care you are taking with this one shows you've got what it takes. Models are like a lot of things. You'll always cherish the memory of your first one, but you'll get a lot better at it the more you do it.

 

 

[Havelock]

I'm literally in the same boat as you, Dan.  Thanks for asking this question (and the glue one too). Decisions, decisions, decisions! Your shellac (and the decking) looks really good. I'm going to try the various "varishes" recommended here on some scrap wood to get a feel for them myself. 

 

Also it's a real eye opener to see the range of responses from experienced builders. Overwhelming for sure but great to receive all this input!