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Jim T

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    Independence, Oregon
  • Interests
    Model ship building, model engine building (machining), flying, motorcycling

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  1. It's been my experience that oil based will give the wood a nice golden glow while water based won't change the tone much. I'd get some of each and give it a try. Oh.............then report back as I'm sure others have the same question. Jim
  2. What is the diameter and length of the thole pins Chuck? I'd like to see if I can turn them on my Sherline lathe as an educational exercise. Thanks, Jim
  3. Hi George, Welcome to the forum. I'm new here myself, but it seems to be a great place to hang out and get input from a lot of very knowledgable folks. As you explore the forum, you'll notice that there is a sub forum for "WOOD" where I bet you can find the answer to your question. Jim
  4. I can see an advantage to a group build like this. Hopefully, more experienced builders will respond with ways that you can successfully fit the lap joint. I'm new at this model boat building, but if I was doing it, I'd mill the joint to a good fit with my Sherline Mill............not an option for most folks. If you have some material 1/2 the thickness of the keel, you could put that on each side of the lap, to support a sanding stick, and sand down to that. That would keep the edges from rounding over. I bet there's lot's of other ways that neither of us know about. Jim
  5. Over the last couple of days I managed to get the Mast Step Locks and Mast Box Log built and fitted. The Mast Step Locks are those little angled pieces between the Mast Box Log and the chines. The only thing, of note, about them is that they needed to be beveled at 9 degrees to fit the angle of the chine. The Mast Box Log needed an angle sanded on the bottom which I'll address below. The Monograph said that the bottom of the Mast Box Log needed to be sanded at a 4 degree angle to account for the rise in the keelson. However, I measured it to be a 1 1/2 degree angle. It IS 4 degrees as it related to the horizontal level line, but as it relates to the uprising keelson it measures 1 1/2 degrees. More on that in a bit. Anyway I clamped a piece of 3/16" sq stock in a tiny vise and slid the Log over that. Set the table on my (new favorite tool) Byrnes disc sander, angled the table to 1 1/2 degrees, and using the miter gauge as a fence sanded the bottom of the log. Set the Box Log in place and stuck a piece of 3/16" sq into the hole to simulate a mast and this is what it looks like. A 4 degree angle would of had the mast leaning forward quite a bit. The plan sheet, that shows the mast, seems to show the mast leaning even more to the rear. I think I'm not going to glue the Mast Box in place at this time In case it needs further adjustment. Jim
  6. Got started on the bow stem assembly today. The tricky part was milling the inner and outer pieces for the bow stem. The object of an inner and outer stem is that the rabbet for the side planks can be made without having to actually cut a rabbet. It sounds like this was an actual practice for these Sharpies (back in the day). I cut 1 3/4" off of the end of a 3/16" sheet and made sure it was a true rectangle. That piece was clamped to an angle block and ran along the miter gauge of my sander........set to 90 degrees. I was then able to sand a 20 degree bevel on one side. Turned it around and then sanded the other bevel. After sanding a flat on the edge of the beveled piece I went back to the cross cut table and sliced off the inner stem. Made the outer stem in the same manner. Got the Horizontal Support Log and Inner Stem glued up. May wait a bit before gluing the outer stem in place. I don't know if this is too much detail to post or not. My thinking was that it might be useful information it this should ever evolve into a group build? Jim
  7. Thanks Doc and Michael...........and others for the "Likes". Doc........My notches were too deep as well (vertically). Didn't turn out to be a problem. The two important things were to get the keel perfectly fitted into it's notches (with a fair run) and to get the chine notches cut so the chine lined up with the chine line on the bottom view. I had to cut my notches a fair amount (toward the keel) to accomplish this. Then when planking the bottom I just raised the chine up in it's notches so the plank laid flat across the keel and chines. This left a gap under the chine, but wasn't a problem. I hope all that makes sense. Michael.......the bottom planks were just butt jointed and edge glued. I like the idea of lapping them.........wish I'd thought of that. They're 1/16" thick so it'd of been easy enough to do. I'll do a little research and see how it was done in the 1:1 world. Jim
  8. Chuck, I grabbed this snippet out of your post. If a person applies a coat of wipe on poly to parts..........can those pieces still be glued with Titebond? I like the sounds of being able to wipe on a coat of poly. Jim
  9. In between bouts of being outside getting fall yard work done, I managed to get the bottom planked (at least as far as it's going for now). Next up is to start working on the bow stem area.
  10. Thanks. I've been waiting for Lee Valley to get these back in stock. Jim
  11. I would definitely like to see more about your railway. Looks like you know your way around landscaping and gardening as well. Jim
  12. What printer did you get? Ours is on it's last legs. Jim
  13. I gave my newly cut Chine lumber a good soak and then bent it into place on Building Jig #1. While it was still wet I hit it with the heat gun that I've used, in the past, for shrinking monocote on my RC airplane builds. I wanted to see if that would help then chines assume the proper bend. It worked great! Plus it dried the chines so I could continue work on them. That done, after getting back from the pool, I spent the afternoon fitting the chines to the keelson at the bow. Then moved on to adjusting the notches in the station bulkheads to get the proper fit to the bottom structure drawing. I thinking I'm getting closer to being able to glue something to something. 🙂 Jim

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