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Jim T

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Independence, Oregon
  • Interests
    Model ship building, model engine building (machining), flying, motorcycling

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  1. I'm wondering if folks ever apply a coat of Sanding Sealer before the first coat of Wipe On Poly? Jim
  2. Got started on the Centerboard Case. The various views in the plans didn't always agree on the construction..... nor did the monograph. No big deal.........it is a "Generic Sharpie" after all, so I just built it the way it could of been built back in the day. 🙂 Set the end logs in place. I wanted to construct the C.B Case so it would be removable for now, so these weren't glued in. Then edge glued the sides and glued to the fore and aft CB Logs. Added the Upper Case Support Logs. And finally the Open Cap Logs. Sorry about the weird color. A little more work to do later. Removed for now. Jim
  3. That's what I like about this scale (1:8)........a person can actually make fittings like these. 👍 Jim
  4. Glenn, I've just completed reading through your thread and will be following along. Lots of great info here from an experienced kit builder turned scratch builder. Jim
  5. As mentioned in the last post, I got started on the floor boards. Once the floor boards were built I used a ships curve to mark the trim line and sanded to shape. Finished. Next up is the Center Board Case. Jim
  6. Castello's website shows numerous listings for boxwood. Which one are you looking at? It's good to know about them. I have a well equipped wood shop, so could mill my own lumber, as you do. Plus, they're located only 60 mi. from me. Jim
  7. Got a little more done the last couple of days. Like most of us, I've got several projects going at once, plus the summer weather is getting here and the yard and garden is calling. Got a couple more stern log parts added. I'm going to wait until I start the stern planking before I add the stern post. Also got a start on the floor boards. Jim
  8. Good save on the rub rail Andrew. I also like what you've done at the bow. The inwales add a lot...............I might look at doing that myself. Jim
  9. This has been an informative and very helpful thread. Jim
  10. I'm at the point of needing to paint the hull (inside and outside) of my CLC Northeaster Dory, so will be watching your process closely. Jim
  11. Primer would of helped, but you would probably still need multiple coats. Also, probably thinned quite a bit. I'm going to paint the CLC dory I'm working on soon and am figuring on spraying one coat of primer and multiple coats of the final color. Someone may be along with more information. Jim
  12. My last post on this build was Nov. 14, 2018. The reason being.......I hadn't done squat on it since then! ☹️ Davec's thread rekindled my interest.........sort of. I got it back out and tried to figure out "where the heck was I"! I had a few pieces made for the stern, so thought I'd better at least get them glued on before I lost them.............which is what this post is about. Got that work done the last couple of days. Next up for me is to figure out the stern log construction. There's not a lot of information on the plans about that. However, the monograph seems to address that. Plus, when doing this type of boat construction, I think just doing what seems right will suffice. I have a hunch that that's what a lot of the original builders did. Lately I've been working on a CLC dory model project, so not sure how far I'll go at this time, but I am starting to feel the juices starting to flow a little bit. Stay safe out there, Jim
  13. Looking good Andrew. I'm about to the point of needing to spray some paint. I thought the rub rails looked a little clunky. so I tapered them a bit from inside to outside. I also cut them down a little so they won't stick out quite as far. I have the same sail plan as you, so your update really helps. Jim
  14. Lofting would make sense. Also taking the dimensions directly off of the plan drawings. When I set my molds up, I slotted my jig in the exact place called out in the plans. It just occurred to me that if the molds were moveable they could be adjusted to obtain a fair curve? Jim

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