Free hand lumber harvesting

[Jaager]

These are a few ideas about what I would try, if I was doing this now.

 

Raw logs can be heavy and difficult to manage and secure.  They are easier if they can be processed in the field.

I know that it is possible to a freehand rip cut to bisect a log with a chainsaw.  A problem is holding a log that wants to roll and getting bottom clearance so that the chain is not also digging into the dirt.

Theoretical solution = a Bora Centipede ( smaller version) with 2x4 rails,  right angle steel brackets  and long screws.  The wide footprint and portability looks promising.

A log can be then be held horizontal and at tabletop height.

A chainsaw will produce a fearsome waste to kerf, but if it this that or nothing, it is worth it and if correctly, the pith is removed - saving later problems with seasoning.

 

A good two stroke chainsaw is an excellent tool,  but also expensive,  a pain to start and maintain,  their power can make kickback dangerous and more likely.

There are low cost electric chainsaws.  Not as powerful, but good enough and they start when you want them to.

Given the cost of wood, the HF chainsaws are low cost enough to have a backup and treat as disposable. 

A pickup truck,  a small size portable generator  and you are in business.

 

Were I younger, I would go hunting - Apple, Plum,  Hornbeam,  Hophornbeam,  Honey Locust,  Dogwood, Holly,  even Buxus from old estates.

 

[Bob Cleek]

Or cut a groove with whatever you've got and split the log with wedges and a maul. Not always possible, depending upon the log and the species, but that's the way they did it in the old days. Still works today.

[Carlos Reira]

I've ripped mountains of lumber with chainsaws of various sizes, but my favorite is my Makita electric. Two stroke works great, but if you have neighbors electric is the way to go. There is kerf loss, but usually the whole log is a loss. Eventually enough shavings build up and you can rip the log on the shavings without worrying about hitting dirt. Usually I split the log in half down the middle, or into quarters or sometimes sixths. I don't try to get boards though it's possible. If there's a bow in the log, I always cut exactly in line with it, otherwise the will bow again while drying. Crooked wood is better than bowed for me. That is, C shaped on the face with the edge straight. Normal saw chain works fine for ripping, but you want to keep the blade somewhat in line with the length of the log to get good long shavings, exactly like rip cutting with a hand saw. Don't try ripping like the chainsaw mill guys do. That takes huge horsepower and special rip chain. The chainsaw doesn't want to dig into end grain any more than any other edge tool. You can snap a chalk line right on the bark if it's clean. Sight down the blade and with practice you'll get very straight cuts. There's a Russian guy on YouTube demonstrating this technique on fairly large logs. Bob is right about splitting, but some woods split readily green and some take enormous force to split. Everything splits with enough of a wedge, even crotches, but obviously straight grain wood is best for splitting. Sawing a kerf helps to get the wedges started, and a circular saw works for this as long as the round end of the log is flat and safe to use one. Use multiple wedges, because one is bound to get stuck. Even plastic or wood wedges help.