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  1. Hi all: some of you might be interested in the Guardian UK article about the figurehead exhibit at the Box Gallery and Museum in Plymouth. They are going to display 14 restored figureheads from various 19th century ships. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/oct/14/restored-19th-century-ships-figureheads-to-go-on-display-in-plymouth Regards, Robert
  2. Some of you who are interested in fishing boat construction and history might be interested in the website and videos put out by the Western Flyer Foundation ( http://westernflyer.org and https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXIlPuc45MBAHorIYCft-WQ/featured ). The foundation is reconstructing a 1937 west coast fishing boat. Their videos on the reconstruction process are very nicely made and very interesting. Robert
  3. Thanks Jaager for your reply! Perhaps given your comments on apple wood fungus, I should consider fungus'd apple for the poop deck planking. I've removed the "waxed apple", and painted the ends with an acrylic paint to seal the end grain. I understand apple to be a slow-drying wood, so I will leave the blank, keeping an eye on it, and trying to weight it from time to time to see how it is doing. There is no rush at the moment, as I'm finishing up an old model project at the moment. The 2" blanks are really an experiment, and a way to evaluate woods that I've not tried before. I'm glad to read about your high recommendation for apple. As I'm in a new town, and recently retired, the overlap of "people I know" and "people with 14" bandsaws" is currently zero, but I can ask around. I unfortunately don't have room for a reasonably sized bandsaw right now, but perhaps in future a 10" saw like the Rikon 10" Deluxe with a good quality 1/2" blade might do OK on smaller stock: I don't know. Anyway, that would be for the future, and I will look out for a community woodshop with a bandsaw for now. It is amazing the degree that I don't know much of anything, so I'm learning that wood-turners often use green wood to pre-carve larger sized works. They then dry the thinner intermediary carving before finishing it off. These pieces naturally dry quicker. I think one problem of using blanks is that the level of moisture in the wood is likely to be variable from one order to the next. Kiln drying is mentioned in some of the catalogs, but mainly for stock under 2" -- a general observation which might be overridden by more experience. Thanks again for your comments. They are appreciated. Robert
  4. I've been experimenting with various wood sources, including 2x2x12" turning blanks. These are relatively easy to resaw with a miniature table saw. One problem is the moisture level of the blanks can vary. I recently received an apple blank that is sealed in wax on all sides, and is rather wet (about 34% moisture content.) I've not had many problems with wet wood in this format before, so I was wondering about the best method for drying it. I plan on removing the wax on all sides, and resealing the ends, and then air drying it for a half year. Are there quicker alternatives that anyone knows about? Robert
  5. Yes, this is a common problem, and shrouds can be pushed in as well as out of alignment if you are not diligent. I would redo the ratlines, but maybe the shrouds are fine. Even super-taunt shrouds can be pushed in/out. One approach is to use a card to mark the shroud positions and the expected ratline positions. Then you can verify after each ratline that things are shipshape. Also, if you do every other ratline, then fill in the gaps, it can be easier to maintain alignment. Robert
  6. There are lots of seafairing words and phrases in English. Three of my favorite are "by and large", "slush fund" and "even keel". Robert
  7. Gyber: based on gybe, the older version of jibe. A gyber would be one who jibes! It may take me a long time to finish my model, but I have to jibe with other life events. Robert
  8. Well, there is a quote about a famous lutinist that he spent 20 years of his life playing the lute, and another 20 tuning the damn thing. I've spent about 5 years building my USS Niagara, and another 5 years looking for parts I've dropped on the floor. Robert
  9. I got a big package of needles, and I use these for making the seizings. I drill a small hole in a hard wood, then force the needle through the hole. This gets a tight fit. Put the needle in the wood, wrap the line around, and add thin CA. I use pliers to move the needle after the glue is applied, then let the glue firm up a bit more, and then remove the needle. The seizing comes off cleanly for me. The only thing is to keep the needle clean. I don't use any wax or other lubricant. I don't see it is needed. Robert
  10. Thanks Patrick for looking in (at my reruns.) And hi to Rshaw as well. I hope to be able to get the reposting up-to-date soon. Regards, Robert
  11. #78: Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:04 am — Today I got a bit further on the jig for making the cutters plank on bulkhead style. As I'm in new territory (for me) I'm taking things slow, so that I don't mess up too much. The bulkheads have now been fitted with boat frames. These are glued only at the ends (tabs), where l cut into the bulkhead base. In theory after the planking, the tabs are cut, and the boat should lift off of the jig (I remain skeptical.) I waxed the edges of the bulkheads to prevent glue from penetrating, as a fail safe (we shall see!). After the bulkheads are added, I fashioned a bow piece to terminate the planking at the front. The transom is glued to a square dowel at the angle needed (the transom for this cutter is not perpendicular, but angled aft.) I'm still fiddling with the transom a bit, to figure out how to deal with planking the stern. So far so good. I will need to fair the first and last two bulkheads to make the planking run smoothly. I'm a little worried that the boat frames are not thick enough for the fairing needed at the stern. I may have to redo these with a bit thicker frames. Now I'm off to buy the turkey for Thanksgiving, and will be busy for the next few days. I should have time to work on the model on Friday, as it is a day off for me. Happy holls for those celebrating Thanksgiving! Regards, Robert Description: Frames are bent around bulkheads using heat/water. I used alcohol for the ones with sharp angles. #79: Cutter continued... Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 2:29 am — Ok, I made a bit of progress on the first of the two cutters. I added the keel and rudder, using the laser cut piece that came with the kit. The rudder and keel are currently one piece, but I will cut the rudder off from the keel as a last step. I accidentally broke the bow off (the piece was on a 1/32 basswood sheet, not ply! -- very fragile). Oh well. So far the planking is going smoothly. The garboard strake is installed, and I just need to figure out how to finish the planking off without causing undue disgrace to this author. And, I also hope the danged thing will come off the jig. My first few planks, the super glue seemed to seep through the frames (as the glue is want to do.) I learned to age the glue, which is a gel type super glue, by leaving a drop of it on a piece of waxed paper. When it thickens, but still is liquid, it is easier to apply a precise drop to the frame, and it does not penetrate into the wood as much. I will be reinforcing the whole hull with a dilute wood glue when the planking is done, so I'm not so worried about the strength of the super glue bond. Robert #80: Static brig niagara model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:33 am — Robert. I assume you are going to cut out the insides of the bulwarks.? If so, how are you going to do it Regards ken #81: Author: phrygian, Location: Kentucky Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 2:05 pm — He's planking onto frames bent over the bulkheads. bob h #82: Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:48 pm — Sorry for all the posts. I could not resist posting about the cutting out of the cutter, which went very smoothly. I'm not sure I did the best planking job: it is tougher that it looks to get all the small planks bent and fitted. After the planking was done, I cut out the transom, and then cut the tabs off at the bulkhead. It lifted right off! I've included a few pictures to show the rough shape. As the cutter will be painted, I will do a bit of sanding and smoothing, then reinforce the wood with a dilute wood glue wash. It is a bit of a relief to have gotten this far with it. Now I only need to do it all one more time for the second cutter! At least the jig should hold together for the second boat. I probably will not post again for awhile, as I have lots of "uninteresting" tasks to do on the model. I will show the detailing work on the boat, however, when I get to that stage. Ken, Bob was correct in pointing out that the boat frames were not directly connected to the bulkheads, only bent over them, and glued at the jig base. Regards, Robert Description: The transom required some steady cutting out, but it went smoothly. Oops, there went the top of the rudder! The frames were relatively easy to cut. #83: static brig niagara,model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:38 pm — Robert I understand now. Congratulations,very neat work Regards ken #84: Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:00 pm — Looks good Robert - I'm going to come back and refresh when I get that far along; maybe steal a couple of your ideas #85: Author: vanburen, Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:53 am — Perfect timing! I just started on my boats. Looking great. #86: Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:33 pm — Nice work on the boats. Both techniques seem to have let you produce good results. I like this kind of work very much (though a bit too clumsy to replicate it ). cheers, Bernie
  12. #76: Ship Boats Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:17 am — Next I'm going to resume working on the ship boats for Niagara. There are three: a yawl, and two larger cutters. I've already completed the yawl, using the model kit's bread and butter construction, with no planks on the exterior. The hull is finished off by sanding the constructed hall paper thin, then priming and painting it. I like the results, but have a nagging feeling that I can do it better. So for the cutters, I want to attempt a plank on bulkhead construction using scale planks. I've included a few pictures of the yawl. Worst case would be if the cutter does not turn out well, I can redo them using the kit's materials. I will mention that the construction method was gleaned from Hubert Sicard's "Wooden Ship Modeling for Dummies." I will modify the techniques if need be, but since this is my first attempt to scratch build a boat, I will stick to his methods as much as possible. I'm not a sales person for Hubert's site, but I have found he has a lot of neat ideas. Just looking at his methods opens one up for adventure in modeling. I'm a slow worker (as I've mentioned before) but I will keep you posted on my progress... Robert Description: Here is the yawl... Description: I used Photoshop to scan in the body plan, and separated them out to create a template for each bulkhead #77: Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:06 am — I didn't get too much done today, as I'm coming down with a cold. However, I cut out the bulkhead profiles for the cutter using an exacto knife, and pasted them to a 3/32" board. If I had been smart, I would have glued them all along the edge. This would have avoided having to square the bases. Next, I rough cut out the profiles using a jewelers saw, and then fine tuned them using a number 11 exacto blade, then sanded them The bulkheads are now in the right ballpark for shape. I will fair the bulkheads to their final shape when I've glued them to a base board. Robert
  13. This is a multifaceted hobby for me; it brings me closer to ships, which I love; it is satisfying working with my hands in the analog world; ships are beautify, so I am creating a beautiful object; models are fascinating to me; mostly, however, I just enjoy the process of working with wood, and metal and thread. Robert
  14. Third time is the charm. Your build is looking great. I like seeming the working ship models, and I will look forward to your log. Robert
  15. Ouch! This is one of my fears working on ratlines. I don't know the exact construction of your shrouds (single or paired), and where the cut occurred. I would be surprised if you can do a splice however. Probably best to replace it and redo the ratlines. Others may have more optimistic advice however! I feel your pain. Robert

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