SOLEIL ROYAL by dantist905 - De Agostini (version 2.0)

[dantist905]

Interior trim, midship deck carriages-dec. I installed pass-through compartments on the nagel on the coffel-nagel bar.

 

 

[dantist905]

[md1400cs]

As always - just wonderful work!!

[dantist905]

Hello colleagues. Recently I 've been working on the stern of the ship .In parallel, he worked on the illumination of superstructures and aft lanterns. I put the stern on glue .now there is nothing that does not slow me down and I will be engaged in roughing .

 

[dantist905]

Good afternoon to all. For a long time, I didn't have the opportunity to continue what I started, but now things are moving forward:). Colleagues!
On this quiet and not-yet-late evening, I have decided on the next steps in my shipbuilding project. The next step is the rough sheathing of the ship's hull. Due to the lack of free time, the speed of the ship's assembly has slowed down. Before starting work, I dismantled the ship's hull from the display stand. It has become inconvenient to firmly attach the model, so I suggest building it in a foam box. It's relatively soft so as not to spoil the model. 
All the preparatory work is completed, it's time to start. Before starting the cladding, we arm ourselves with… 
Wood material linden rail 5x2x50mm.
Wood material birch rail
5x2x30mm. from the magazine set from Diagostini. 
Tools and consumables 
Nails 10x0.7mm
Nailing tool
Mini drill + 0.7mm drill bit
PVA glue (red)
Wood flour
Iron
Rack soaking bottle
Shlivmashina + renovator
Sandpaper, sponge, bar.
A knife for cutting rails.
The motor for narrowing the slats. I
started roughing the hull.
A) Fitting the slats on the model body, marking with a pencil from where the rail needs to be narrowed. Marking with a pencil the location of the nails in the projection of the frames. 
Next, I made holes with a 0.7 mm drill bit and narrowed the rail on a sandpaper.  
C) Soak in hot water for 10' - 15' When soaking the rails, there is a problem that there is no container in which you can place the rail completely, but in my case, it is not necessary to soak the rail completely, in this case, I soak in a glass bottle from under beer.  
In order to avoid cracking and breaking of the rail in places of sharp bends. You can also bend over steam.

G) Once again, I try it out how it fits on the body, and if everything is satisfactory, I apply PVA glue to the rail and immediately attach it with nails. Since the nails are very small and it is inconvenient to hammer them in, it is best to use a nailer. I have such a tool in my arsenal. After that, the work went much faster. However, a small hammer should always be on hand, as it may be necessary to finish the nail.
D) I remove the excess glue, especially on the end of the attached rail, using a cloth and then a knife. If there is a gap between the slats, it must be filled with glue and wood flour.
And so 10 rows are made. I cleaned the body a little from the glue, but I haven't polished it properly yet. I used sandpaper, a block, a grinder, and finally an emery sponge. This manipulation allows you to evaluate the work more accurately.
After that, I move to the other side and do the same.
The most difficult part is bending the front slats, as they require careful attention. The middle and rear slats are much easier to bend.
I am confident that our model will last a long time. The model is not cheap. Each modeler invests a lot of time, money, and effort into it. It is primarily a reminder of the present, which is unfortunately fleeting.