Albatros by kramer - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:100

[kramer]

Pulled all of the nails out, filled in gaps with wood filler (thanks Keith!), sanded it down, now I'm ready to start the second planking. I think. I hope I've sanded it down enough. 

 

[Keith Black]

 Kramer, IMHO you're not there yet. Were I you, I'd also fill the nail holes and for sure the cracks at the bow and stern. The filler at the stern still looks a bit ragged. The goal is to make the hull's first planking look like the second planking is not required. Make that hull as smooth as a baby's behind. The better job you do on the first planking is going to make the second planking look that much better. 

[kramer]

I agree, not quite there yet. I think I'll spend some time next weekend sanding and filling some more. But I have some structural issues. I didn't fair the frame as much as needed, so you definitely see the ribs. Not sure any amount of sanding will fix that. I'm not too bummed though. This is my first ship and I'm learning a lot! Probably would have helped me to see a finished product before I started. I'm heading to the Mariner's Museum to check out some professionally done models. 

I started glueing the second layer of planks before I saw Keith's response. Driving forward!

[Keith Black]

 Buddy, it's going to look great. Since you've started the second planking, press forward. As you said, this is your first, the next one with be a piece of cake and be better still. 

[kramer]

Thanks Keith! I appreciate all your advice and encouragement. 

[kramer]

Second planking done! On to the false keel. I sanded the hull with 180 block sandpaper. Looks pretty good and it took some of the rough parts and imperfections out. Some spots are darker than others mainly because the glue sometimes soaks through the thin planks. That doesn't really sand out.

 

Next time I think I'll stain the first planked hull the same stain as the second planks to hide some of the small gaps between the planks when I couldn't get them super tight. I'm pretty happy with it so far and am looking forward to the next few steps, the false keel and the deck. After that I start with the rigging. I'm sure it'll be a challenge but I'm looking forward to getting it started. 

 

[Keith Black]

Kramer, the hull's second planking turned out nice, great job!

[kramer]

Thanks Keith! I learned a lot doing it. 

[kramer]

 

I wanted to post a question to the group about metal parts on the ship's deck. The belaying pins that came with the OcCre kit are supposed to be metal, but they're wood. So I need to paint them to look like metal. The pins in the picture in the manual look gold, so I guess they're supposed to be brass. I had this bronze paint laying around that looks pretty nice, so I painted one to see how it would look. I think it looks pretty good, but I don't want to commit a faux pas in model ship building by painting a part to look like a metal that wouldn't be used for a 1850s American Schooner. I know this build isn't going to be extremely accurate. I have to buy some paint anyway, should I buy gold paint or is it a big deal?

 

[Keith Black]

Kramer, brass belaying pins can be bought from Cornwall in the UK and I would think suppliers here in the US. In the great scheme of things I don't think painting a wood pin with a brass metallic paint vs a actual brass pin is going to matter. The paint you've used to paint the pit is a bit too gold me thinks. 

[kramer]

Thanks Keith! Waiting on some varnish for the hull and some paint and I'll be ready to drive on. I also emailed OcCre about getting some replacement pins. They've been good about sending parts that were short from the kit last time I asked them for some planks. If they don't send me brass pins I'll just paint the wooden ones. 

 

[Keith Black]

Kramer, the hull looks really nice but don't you want to add the bowsprit before applying varnish and paint? You'll have better gluing surfaces plus you'll be able to fill in any gaps around the bowsprit. 

[kramer]

If adding the bowsprit before varnishing the hull is best then yes. Going by the directions included with the kit, it has me varnishing the hull and all the wooden parts that have to be incorporated to the ship including clump blocks and chain plates before building and installing the bowsprit. But if you think the bowsprit before varnishing I'll go with your expertise. You haven't steered me wrong yet! The instructions have me doing the bowsprit before any rigging and masting, so I'd only be out of sequence a few steps. I know these instructions aren't always accurate and certainly not detailed, so I will definitely go with experienced opinions. 

Also, you're saying the raw wood surface is easier to glue to than varnished? Makes sense. The instructions don't say anything about varnishing the deck, should I not varnish the deck? 

[Keith Black]

 One can glue onto a varnished surface but contact isn't as good as gluing wood to wood. In suggesting doing the bowsprit now I was thinking more about filling around the bowsprit, sanding, and then paint/varnish. If one first applies paint/varnish and then adds the bowsprit and filling needs to be done, one would be sanding the already applied paint/varnish. To my way of thinking I'd want to add the bowsprit first, fill as necessary, sand as needed and then paint/varnish and then follow the directions step sequence. You want to be careful not to get glue on the deck as I'll explain in the next paragraph. The bowsprit is never going to be easier to work than right now, once one starts to add this's and that's the they become a hindrance.

 

 Varnish is a personal like or dislike. I like varnish (actually Polyurethane  in my case but varnish is great) as it protects the surfaces. Were it I, I'd varnish the deck before adding all the deck furniture. If you add the deck furniture first and get a little sloppy with the glue, it might discolor the wood deck. Varnish first (if you want to varnish the deck) the glue on the deck furniture. Then the glue can be cleaned off without worry about discoloration. 

 

 

[kramer]

All great advice! Much appreciated. Working on the bowsprit now. Not sure if I'm going to varnish the deck. I'll do the hull first and see how it looks.

[kramer]

Haven't posted my progress in a while. I've been finishing all of the deck accoutrements. 99.9% done until I broke one of the anchors trying to fix a mistake. Didn't realize the stock and the shank were supposed to be cross ways to each other. Replacement parts on the way, OcCre has been great about sending replacement parts. 

[kramer]

Here's my progress! I've learned a lot with the decking and have bought quite a few new tools. MicroMark has a model building tool for just about everything I could have imagined. 

[Keith Black]

 She's looking great! 

[kramer]

Ready for the masts! I've seen pictures of the masts perfectly vertical and pictures where they angle aft slightly. Any opinions? The OcCre instructions don't say anything and there are pictures and drawings in the booklet both ways.

[Keith Black]

Kramer, the angle of a mast is called "rake" and completely vertical would be no rake. Most ships sail with a bit of rake depending on the Captain's preference and how the ship performs.

[kramer]

Can the rake be adjusted while the ship is sailing?

[Keith Black]

Yes and no. It requires the standing stays the backstays be tightened or loosened with deadeyes and blocks. It's a pretty big undertaking, it's feasible it could be done at sea if all the sails were temporarily hauled and the seas were calm but would be a task better done dockside.

[kramer]

That's interesting, I didn't know the masts could be adjusted at all. I think I'll rake them slightly aft. I don't want to rake them too much and mess up any measurements from the directions, but I like the look of movement with the masts slightly raked. 

[Keith Black]

Mast being slightly raked looks , well, just more natural. 

[kramer]

Fore mast is ready. I'm going to assemble the main mast, main gaffs, and main boom before I move forward. Should I attach the fore yards and fore gaff to the fore mast before I attach the fore mast to the deck or after? I want to think ahead. I don't know what will be more difficult, attaching gaffs, yards, and booms after I mount the masts but before I rig everything. Any opinions?

[kramer]

Masts are up! I decided to attach the gaffs, yards, and booms after watching a video on OcCre Mania https://www.occremania.com/. Good step-by-step videos for some OcCre kits. I figured it would be easier to get them all attached and tight before I mounted the masts. Hope this wasn't a mistake and everything isn't in the way. Worst case I can cut the lines and reattach the structures later. 

[kramer]

My first lanyards! I'm sure some of you have done literally thousands, but this feels like a milestone in model ship building. Only have time to work on a couple a day, but already learned a lot. Enjoyed this very much and hope the rest of the rigging goes as well.

[kramer]

I made a template so I could start the rat lines but I have a question. Can't start yet anyway. OcCre calls for raw colored thread at .15mm for the rat lines and .5mm brown for the shrouds. I'm ordering brown .15mm for the rat lines, I don't like the contrast. But to attach the rat lines I saw a video where the guy put a dab or CA on the shrouds and just laid the ratlines on. Seemed easy enough, but I tried it and it didn't really work. I saw another video where a guy tied a simple overhand knot on the first shroud and clove hitches on the rest. Any recommendations on attaching the rat lines to the shrouds?

[Keith Black]

 

2 hours ago, kramer said:

guy tied a simple overhand knot on the first shroud and clove hitches on the rest.

 

 Kramer, that's the way I plan on doing mine. 

[Oldsalt1950]

Use clove hitches and a dab of CA, Also there should be a bit of a dip in the climbing ropes of the rat line fore to aft, Looking good. I'm building the Mantua version.