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Posted

I just started Lancia Armata. The hull frames are installed but they are the type that will be taken out after planking. The instructions briefly mention rubbing the edges of the frames with a candle. I believe this is done so the plank glue doesn't stick so tight to the frames, making it easier to remove the frames without damaging the planks. This build is more of a ships boat than a large ship and it is supposed to have 3 layers of planking. I guess what will end up as the inner planking is what will be glued to the frames and they will be visible so I don't want to see a build up of glue where they came in contact with the frames.

 

I think I have have heard of this before, but I'm hoping that someone with a little more knowledge can fill me in with more details. Mainly what types of glue can I use? In previous builds I would usually "nail" a plank to a frame with a dot of CA then use white glue along the plank edge.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

Posted

A frequent method to build a model open boat is to fit planking over a solid or station mold. The adhesive bond plank to plank holds the shape when it is time to remove the mold.  The goal is to keep any adhesive bond between the planking and the mold at zero occurrence.  None at all.  Grocery stores till sell paraffin wax - candles may be from animal based sources-  A cling type sandwich wrap may be a better barrier.

 

I can also imagine a technique where the actual boat frames are mechanically held on the mold ( tricky to do at best ) and the planking bonded to these actual frames while on the mold.  But I think for most actual boat frames, their rank in order of attachment was/is last.  Often they were bent to fit - saving on time and skilled labor.

 

PVA is the wood to wood adhesive that is most frequently used -  both yellow and white have their champions here, although, unless you intend to float the hull, TiteBond III is probably over kill.   Hide glue would work, but liquid, such as Franklin or Old Brown may have too high a proportion of water.  Glue pot flakes has less water and is really old school,  but requires a lot of attention to prepare and maintain.  We do not need the reverse gear of a Strad or Chippendale on a ship model but it would work.

CA is an eleven footer for a lot of us dinosaurs.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Jaager - the more I think about it, it sounds like you are right. The wax (whatever type) is applied to keep ANY glue from sticking to the frames. A reread of the minimal instructions shows (I think) that the planks are actually glued to what will be the stern & stem. As you noted, the other frames are just forming a mold to shape the planks.

 

I'll go with the usual Tightbond glue on the plank edges, and forgo the "nailing" to the frame with CA.

 

Thank you - that helps!

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

Posted

 This is a "how to" build log on this very subject. It's an amazing build log. 

 

 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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