Swift by 3sheets10 - Artesania Latina - first build

[SKID]

I know a photo speaks a thousand words but I don't have any from my build. Wish I did bit I finished my Swift well before I discovered this site.

 

Anyway, on my plans on the photo page, step 5 shows that you have to file part 12 and 10 so they are flush and flat. if you jump to photo 7 in the lower right corner it shows that when you plank it the planks will have to set flat all the way to the end of the stern.

Just remember that all of the bulk heads will have to be filed down so that the planks will rest flat on them so when you glue the planks they will have something to adhere to and will not have any kinks or sharp bends in them.

[3sheets10]

I am thinking that after I file the stern frame down for planking, I can even the sides out enough so that the stern plank sits even on the stern frame. 

[Mo313]

Keep up the good work, Cadet 

[3sheets10]

Thanks TheFOX! 

[3sheets10]

Here are some photos of the main deck being set on to the frames and the end product. I think the bow has a very sudden incline. I have looked over the plans that came with the kit and other builders photos and I am not sure if it is suppose to be that steep or if I messed it up when I was sanding the bow, most likely the latter.

 

There were also some uneven parts where the deck dipped a little too low so I had to add some material to push the deck up a little to a level that followed the curve of the ship.

 

Are there any other areas of improvement that anyone can see that are necessary fixes before I start planking? 

[themadchemist]

As my build is the older version I cant say for the fit exactly, but the pilot boats definitely have a compound curvature to the deck.

 

It's a design to help move water off deck and out the scuppers/water-ways. The deck should have downward curvature in the length (higher on the ends) and a rise in the center across the deck. This aided in moving water towards the middle and out the sides. 

From the pictures it appears to be this way,

The main thing is whether its symmetrical from side to side and the slope of the deck transitions smooth. If so I'd say your ok on the deck.

[SKID]

From what I recall the angle of the deck looks correct.

[3sheets10]

I placed the stern deck onto the frame and tried to correct the unevenness of it by rigging up a system to pull everything somewhat even, but despite my effort, I do not believe it was effective. I was hoping to get some feedback as to how much this will affect my progress in the future and what I can do to remedy the issue. I have sat and thought a lot about how I can fix it and I am hesitant to take any drastic action just yet even though I have come close. 

Edited August 18, 2013 by 3sheets10

[SKID]

I am not sure I see where it is uneven.

Can you draw on the picture and circle the area's that you think are uneven.

[3sheets10]

Here you go Kevin. The areas that are in question are marker in red. To describe it, the top circle marks where the stern deck is uneven with the 10th frame. The thing I am most worried about is the side circle where there seems to be a significant difference in where the edges line up. It is staggered where I assume it should be even for the bulwarks.

[themadchemist]

Assuming its the same as the older version, yes it should line up, even more so at the bulkhead - deck. Unless on the newer version the bulwarks protrude. On the older version the Bulwarks actually meet the planking 3mm below the deck line. I had a few issues such as this and shimmed or sanded to even things out and keep symmetry, Mine was not near as much over as in your photos.

 

Your kit has a completely different stern so I cant really say about it. On my build I had balsa blocks in back.

[shawn32671]

Great job so far I plan to purchase this very same kit by Artesania Latina in a week or two.

[SKID]

Fir the side where the decks do not line up I would sand the edge of the deck down to get it to match the edge of the stern step deck. don't worry about getting it too close to the bulkhead as you will be planking that area.

 

As far as bulkhead 10, you do want it to be recessed as you have it now but you want that bulk head to be even with the end of the deck. so try to put a wedge in between bulkheads 10 and 12 on the right side of your picture to lift 10 up a little so it is more even with the deck.

Hope that makes sense.

[Lecsandro]

Good luck with your build!


[Anja]

Hello Tyler,

 

 

Happy birthday. I hope you have a great day.

 

Anja

[3sheets10]

Alright, back from a long break and ready to tackle the hull planking. Here are a couple pictures at the start before I make anything permanent. 

 

 

[themadchemist]

I love the shape of that deck, its compound curvature really makes it stylin'

 

Now comes the fun part. I love planking. Looks good.

[SKID]

3dsheets, it looks like you filed the bow flat. Can you take some pictures of the bow?

You will want it to come to a point in the front and some of it will be filed down for the false keel but some of it will be at a point at the top.

[themadchemist]

The pictures below illustrate what Kevin is talking about. You also need to spile the plank to get a straight line for the Bulwarks to line up to and also prevent crowding at the stem. I was assuming your still shaping in the above pictures. There is  plenty extrending at the stern to move the plank forward though before glue up. Shaping each plank is a slow and fun process. Think of each plank as an individual model in its self and before you know it. you'll be done. Garboard plank placement is also critical as to how far forward it extends. You can see my log for more planking details on the swift.

 

 

[3sheets10]

Thanks guys for the advice! Alright, well I got a little ahead of myself and glued on the first plank. Lets see how I can get out of this one. 

 

I see what you guys are talking about. The bow is a little more rounded than what your's s TMC. I was thinking there was too much of a gap between both the planks at the bow. So I will need to sand the bow's edge a little more to get that point huh? 

 

Now for the spiling of the planks, I suppose I do not exactly understand that process fully. I will have to do some more research. Here are some pictures of the bow Kevin.

Edited October 23, 2013 by 3sheets10

[SKID]

3sheets10, MSW has many great articles in the Articles and Downloads section.

 

Take a look at the planking guide and it may help with explaining spilling and stealers and a few other things.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf

[3sheets10]

Slowly but surely making my way through the planking. I have the wale in and now on to the garboard strake. Just shaping them now before their final placement. Should the planks run along the false keel at all or should you set them in place along the frames with the bow end connecting and then splitting as you reach the stern?

[3sheets10]

The garboard strake installment.

 

[themadchemist]

Garboard looks good. Nice and symmetrical and it ended up perfectly placed. I think many crowd the bow with the garboard by stopping it too far forward.  I ended mine about where you did and I planked the complete first planking with no dropped planks up front.

You also got a nice even twist on the garboard as she lays down the keel, dont forget that much of the stern area of the garboard will be removed to narrow the total thickness down to the keel thickness.

Now comes the really fun part of planking, but then heck it's all fun to me. Beautiful job so far.

[3sheets10]

Thank you TMC, I appreciate that!

 

I will be ready to have a good grasp of this planking so it is a little less daunting, but it certainly is a fun challenge! 

[3sheets10]

Lined out the hull for planking. The only string I had on me we floss, so I went for it! Worked out well! Now all I smell is mint at my work place. Not the best job on my part, but it gives me an idea. The only thing I am struggling with is the plank that lines up next to the garboard. I cannot seem to fit it with the standard 5mm wide planks. I see people using wider planks to cut out the right shape, but I cannot find a place to get such a product.

 

 

[themadchemist]

You can usually pickup basswood in wider pieces at places like Hobby Lobby. I myself kinda cheated and forced the 2nd plank to bend laterally (sidebending some call it) and it seemed to work. Heat will greatly help in achieving that. Soak the wood then pin it down with a jig and let it dry that way. I've found a piece of plywood and push pins work although the pins sometimes leave dimples in the edge where the pressure is applied. You could also use an iron to steam it into submission.
 

Lots of options. If its any consolation, the 2nd plank next to the garboard I found the hardest to lay. You might consider investing in a sealing iron. I didn't until just before starting the second planking and it made shaping the thin stuff easier then I could ever image. There are lots of styles, but I bought this one based on Randy's (lamarvalley) recommendation and it was worth every penny. I might be able to find one locally, if not at the hobby shop, check fabric stores as they are commonly used it quilting.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Veneer-Edge-Banding-Iron/dp/B000X4PWTM

 

Also from looking at the minty floss battens, it appears that the 2nd and 3rd bulkheads don't transition smoothly. Although it may just be the picture or the clink in the floss. It looks like the 2nd from stern on the starboard side is low or the 3rd is high. Here's a modified pic which may better expain what words didn't.

 

 

[themadchemist]

Oh I was also going to pass on the suggestion that CaptHarv gave me. He recommended replacing the plywood bulwarks with solid basswood. I found this shaped like a dream and was a well spent few dollars. I think the 3" wide by 24'' long sheet at Hobby lobby was $2 and it was a simple trace and cut with an exacto #11.

 

Just an Idea, I thought I'd share. IIRC Harv stated that they built the Swift as a club project and many had issues with the plywood, so this change was found to be the fix. It worked for me.

[shawn32671]

That veneer edge bending iron is exactly the same thing used to attach the covering on R/C planes so any hobby shop should carry it http://www.amazon.com/COVERITE-Black-Baron-Sealing-COVR2550/dp/B000X4OLQM/ref=pd_sbs_t_9 great idea mad chemist....Also good job so far ion your build 3sheets.

Edited November 25, 2013 by shawn

[3sheets10]

Putting in the next plank from the wale.