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Posted

Oh but that’s a rabbit hole! Take a look at my victory log, just go straight to the end.

 

Incidentally, part of the purpose of taking a break from the victory is to see what, if anything, happens to the resin-printed stern, as post-curing curling/flattening was a royal pain. And it does continue to cure. The curve of the stern plate on mine is now noticeably flatter at the unrestrained top than lower down where it’s more forced to hold a shape. I imagine normal drying and curing just does the top few layers and the rest of it remains ‘wet’ but slowly dries out over time. Not a major problem if the object is all glued up to the hull as that’ll stop any untoward movement, and as I’m using abs-like resin it’ll still pull back into shape easily enough, though I don’t like having tension on the hull, I.e. will the glue one day give way?

 

Now that I have a ‘near enough’ fit, for the next iteration I’ll measure the hull point to point at the joint line with some damn great callipers and hopefully that’ll get me there.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

I had a look at your Victory log and I was very impressed. Especially with the way your made the arms and other "organic" shapes. This is an area I have trouble with and it gives me hope that there is a way to do it properly. My original wooden stern had the problem your mention with the unsupported top part starting to straighten and it drove me mad to look at it. It frustrated me so much I just pulled it off and forced myself to do it again with resin. I noticed you made the letters seperate to make it cleaner with painting which I like the idea of. My stern is all one piece and I can see that painting the letters is going to cause me some concern. Have you ever considered using resin to adhere your parts together instead of glue? It works quite well and is very strong. I was thinking of printing some plugs similar to the ones that screw into plaster walls and screwing them into the ship at points where the stern will touch the model. Then use resin to adhere the two parts together which should create a strong bond. Either that or a resin rod through the model from quarter to quarter and then attaching the stern to that. 

Posted

The game changer for me was figuring out basic meshmixer, for sculpting shapes I'd created in F360. The fundamental shapes were not that complicated in F360, a lot of it was done through projecting sketches onto bodies, but if you have a specific question, fire away. I'm no expert but you never know, I might have crossed that bridge. I will say this though - it was a royal PITA, mostly because F360 'hangs' rather than errors, and as the project file became bigger and bigger a vast amount of my screen time was spent swearing at a hung screen. I haven't yet found the energy to learn Rhino 3D but do need to do this and swap over.

 

In passing, after a year of almost exclusively using elegoo abs-like resin (I found the elegoo standard stuff too brittle so quit that straight away) I'm experimenting this week with two alternatives, the anycubic basic grey and sirayatech fast creamy (the only colour that was available on the day). Only tried the sirayatech so far but there is way, way less post-printing curling and it seems less 'soft-and-bendy' than the elegoo. In fact it feels like a good comprise between the quite rigid but very brittle elegoo standard and the too soft abs-like, and it's in the same price range. I'll be trying it on a few more bits but can see this becoming a go-to.

 

The entire Vic stern was done around the painting, so that I could get really sharp lines, hence splitting everything yellow as separate parts. It was quite a bit of work to design everything and get it to fit, but worth it, I think. I still have to hand paint the trophy of arms, but only because I knew it would drive me mad to try and make this in different colour parts (yes, it did cross my mind!). I've not tried using resin as the glue. How do you cure it/get it to set? I'm making parts now, on a Cutty Sark, where it probably is possible to get them back under the lamp if necessary.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

Posted

Same here, I’ll dig out the nail dryer and give it a go.

Kevin

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ktl_model_shop

 

Current projects:

HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller / Scratch, kind of active, depending on the alignment of the planets)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23247-hms-victory-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic-with-3d-printed-additions/

 

Cutty Sark 1:96 (More scratch than Revell, parked for now)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30964-cutty-sark-by-kevin-the-lubber-revell-196

 

Soleil Royal 1:100 (Heller..... and probably some bashing. The one I'm not supposed to be working on yet)

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36944-le-soleil-royal-by-kevin-the-lubber-heller-1100-plastic/

 

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