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Kevin-the-lubber

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  1. Erik, that's exquisite. If you'd posted a picture of it bobbing on the waves I'd have assumed it was a freshly overhauled real thing. Even if I wasn't an engineer by training and nature, I wouldn't be able to walk past this without wanting to take it all in. Nail polish tips added to my ever-expanding bookmark list from this site!
  2. Glazing test, just the top row. First go with elegoo translucent resin. Not bad, not bad at all. Printed as a strip just to make it easier to know which pane is which, the tabs get snipped off for fitting. It has a slightly pearl finish on one side, glossy on the other. I believe it's possible to polish translucent objects for greater transparency, I guess the opacity comes from the pearly side. Though I could also just use it as a template for clear film. I haven't yet decided whether to furnish the cabins. It'd be so easy in 3D it would be a shame not to, but that's a decision for later on,
  3. Hi Hubac, I love the rope in this form, in fact all the slightly thicker decoration. It gives more texture and relief, especially when viewed at an angle, and I'll definitely stick with this. Corbels - of course! I've been racking my brains for what these would be called, in the 3D file I've nicknamed them 'bumpers'! I do have them modelled but the filigree is so tiny and I haven't yet thought of a way to print it that wouldn't result in it breaking while taking it off the plate, or being virtually impossible to clean up. And a lesson learned on this model is that the smaller and f
  4. Thanks Ian, it'd be nice to recoup some of the cost - I don't even dare think in terms of time spent! Let's see how the side galleries go. You couldn't use this 'kit' with the stock sides as the lower window rails aren't true copies of the Heller, nor are they in the same position. That would have been way too hard (or too tedious) for me. But you're right, if it all comes out well it would make a lovely aftermarket kit.
  5. or hours.... quick look at the trophy I made a few months back. Fits fairly well, will pull round to the curve of the 'teeth' decor, think I'll stick with this.
  6. 29/5/21 Closer… needed to take a break from staring at lines on a screen and see where it’s at in the flesh. I didn't bother cleaning up the parts hence plenty of artifacts, just printed, quick bit of airbrushing, stick it all together. It's not quite as good as I'd hoped for, 90%, but maybe I can squeeze another 5% through tweaking the design. This is officially MK2, in reality more like MK20 on the design side. I had to start again after the screenshots in the previous post, as my beginners Fusion 360 methodology first time round was dreadful and
  7. Hi Helmut, I’m finding this to be the liveliest of the threads I follow, suggesting 3D is gaining popularity in this field as the equipment becomes so much more affordable. I think you’ll have fun with the Creality; I’ve mostly used mine for DIY projects or fun things.
  8. Jerry, nice work. You must get lovely detail at that scale. I hadn’t heard of anim8or, any idea how it compares to other packages? I’m a day or two away from creating filigree for my 1:100 victory and, putting aside that I may need to learn and do it or finish it in blender, my F360 trials have been based on sweeping and lofting along traced paths. The ‘proof of concept’ tests have worked fine but I know I’m likely to end up spending countless hours at least on each little scroll, creating a series of profiles, so not ideal.
  9. That looks like a good idea, I’ll be very interested in how you get on. Previously I’ve tried tweaking svg’s created from photos, but that’s not been terribly successful, I always seem to end up with vector triangles all over the place.
  10. Still chipping away at it.... renders of (maybe) final modelling of everything so far, bar the lowest rail, which still needs a small bit of work to make it a kit part. The zigzag lines are not real of course, just the software can do. Everything yellow is a separate part, fits into place on the stern plate, either in a recess or via locating pins (the toothed rail). For anyone interested, the ideal clearance seems to be 0.2mm as a rule of thumb. I overlap wherever possible but even where this isn't possible, the join gaps are virtually non-existent in test pieces. Lower balustrade
  11. I think this is just what I need, there are a few bits on the victory that I doubt I’ll ever get right in fusion.
  12. I’d never even heard of these drawing tablets, think I’ll give that a go when I’m finished with the parts I can do in f360. I’ll need to try to sculpt some figurines soon. The other day I read with interest an article on home made 3D scanners on All3d. All of which looked simple and cheap to make. No good for something on your scale, Haze, but maybe useful for recreating small objects.
  13. I’m on the cusp of trying to get a handle on blender myself, to remake some figures. My previous attempts at remodelling svg’s or was it stl’s have not gone terribly well, things weren’t behaving as I expected, so I guess I’ll have to spend some time learning it properly. why is a pen tablet needed? I’ve just used a PC.
  14. You do quickly run up against the size limitations with the small home machines. But even something like the peopoly is many times the cost of the elegoo Mars I bought a couple of months ago. Personally, I think if I was to ‘invest’ any further I’d want to look at SLS and solve the supports and brittleness problems that come with resin, but that’s a whole different ball game cost-wise.
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