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Kevin-the-lubber

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  1. Kevin-the-lubber
    Apologies if I'm misunderstanding but isn't that table the wrong way round? I don't think the sail material would get thicker as the scale gets smaller! I don't know what the sailcloth thickness would be at 1:1 but if I assume roughly 1mm, then: Scale mm inch 1:1 1.000 0.0394 1:24 0.042 0.0016 1:48 0.021 0.0008 1:64 0.016 0.0006 1:72 0.014 0.0005 1:96 0.010 0.0004 1:200 0.005 0.0002 1:350 0.003 0.0001 Tissue is about 0.05mm so true to scale at 1:24, though it seems to give quite a credible representation at other scales.
  2. Kevin-the-lubber
    I'd say listen to your gut. This is rich coming from me, but there it is. If I eventually decide to put sails on mine I will copy Marco's method (Bruma) as his sails are far and away the best that I've seen. But if you go down that road, take a look at the timeline on his log between starting to make the sails and finishing. My personal view is that cloth is no more realistic than the plastic. Even the thinnest fabric is too thick. But you may well get a good result by doing what your wife suggests but using EZE Tissue (you'll find it on ebay). However, I sense that you want to complete this kit and then see where you go next, and the quickest route is the plastic. The funny thing is that I don't think I've seen them on a single build here, so while we all think they'll look terrible, who knows, maybe they wouldn't look that bad.
  3. Kevin-the-lubber
    That's very appealing but a fair bit more expensive. I guess you get what you pay for. However I fear it'll take something to persuade the admiral to sail again any time soon, more my thing that hers.
  4. Kevin-the-lubber
    We’ve done a three cruises in the last few years, personally I think there’s a fine line between it being a glorified passenger ferry and a floating hotel. The last one (Norwegian fjords) was very much towards the ferry end of the spectrum and I doubt we’ll do another any time soon. Here in the UK there’s a much more affordable way of living onboard and seeing new places - canal boats! You’re making great progress David, I’d again say just plough ahead and use this as a fun starter. For the future, I can 100% confirm that bigger is better. I finished making some carronades yesterday, printed them and thought how fantastic they’ll look on my 1/100 victory, until I realised I’d forgotten to scale down from 1/48. But who has space for a 6 foot model! I think the sweet spot is about 3 feet long and the largest scale possible against that final length.
  5. Kevin-the-lubber
    I've had a look at the file, nothing wrong with what you've done there. Though as often seemed to be the case with my own TinkerCad objects, the software says the components are not manifold (there are holes/gaps in the mesh, but the slicer is probably fixing these on the fly). A multi-part will print fine in resin but I think you'd struggle with the library printer. The frames would be about 0.5mm thick but if the finger cross section was like the sketch i.e. create a mortice and tenon, there would be enough heft in the frame for it to not be that delicate. It's ages since I used TinkerCad and I can't remember how much scope there is for dimension-driven design.
  6. Kevin-the-lubber
    I bet most of us won’t see 60 again. David, great job so far and, at the risk of seeming contrarian, I’d say keep plowing ahead without getting distracted by detail or precision. There lies an enormous rabbit hole and once you start trying to be true to the ship or even true to scale, it’s very easy to become bogged down. I’d also point you at a build log of the Heller HMS Victory by Bill, and also his Soliel Royale (just search the forum), not because they will help with the CS, but because they demonstrate just how good a result you can get if you just crack on and keep the aftermarket’s and modifications to a minimum.
  7. Kevin-the-lubber
    Tuppence from me: yes, print the fingers separately and, while you’re at it, think about splitting the fingers into two parts, the outer frame and inner insert. It’s not much work, design-wise, and you’ll get lovely sharp paint lines.
  8. Kevin-the-lubber
    What an interesting project! And very nicely printed, I don’t see any supports scars anywhere. I couldn’t hear or see any gears grinding but have been told by a pro that candle wax is a great lubricant for 3d printed gears, if you are having that problem. I’ve been meaning to try it on my rope seizing machine but as I’ve parked the Cutty Sark for now that may be a while.
  9. Kevin-the-lubber
    Bill, is everything so far part of the kit, i.e. the boards, ring bolts? The re-washed deck was definitely a good choice, it looks very much like the deck on the actual Cutty Sark and I think you’ve got the colouring spot-on.
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    Over here you can buy decal paper by the sheet off eBay. But wouldn’t you want/need the setting liquids? In passing, my own recent foray into water slide decals hasn’t been particularly successful, they wrinkle and the ink rubs off, and I’ve parked it for a rainy day. I may be misunderstanding the exercise but couldn’t you make card or paper stencils instead? You can cut those using the laser for precision. Two or three masks (layers) with positioning points etc.
  11. Kevin-the-lubber
    About a year ago I bought a used Dell Precision 7720 17.3" Laptop: Intel i7, 500GB SSD, 16GB, P3000 for about £650, including a 1 year warranty. It copes just fine with Fusion 360 and the various graphics packages I occasionally use. I wanted the big screen for 3D modelling, so while it is indeed a laptop, I wouldn't want to be carrying this around a lot. But as a portable hi-spec computer its' great.
  12. Kevin-the-lubber
    I’ve found Inkscape is easier for getting what I wanted and it’s free. None of the graphics packages seem very easy though.
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    Obviously I went to a better school 🤣. Gosh, I haven't thought about that for years, but yes, wasn't it amazing seeing the swarf coming off in a perfect spiral. Personally I loved (in later life) machining brass or bronze. The colour of freshly cut, un-oxidised brass is a little bit magical. Anyway, back to the point; I know nothing about galleons but wouldn't there have been a chappie or two on a steering platform at the stern, who could by definition see past the prow?
  14. Kevin-the-lubber
    That’s hilarious - I also have one of those, somewhere. Made at about the same age, 14 or 15, in the metalwork class. For some reason what always stuck in my mind was the magic of knurling, and brazing the head to the handle. Looks like you made a nice job of yours!
  15. Kevin-the-lubber
    Well done Bill, it’s an amazing achievements to do even one of these big kits in 3 or 4 years, but to do two, and to do both to such a high standard - I take my hat off to you. I really like the figure on the ratlines. That one in particular gives a sense of scale, and I must remember that for the future. I’ve just ‘followed’ your Endeavour and will be watching that with huge interest, partly because it’s a ship I’d like to one day build (along with the ‘Terror’) and partly because you’re venturing into wood.
  16. Kevin-the-lubber
    Ditto, great find Bill, I'll watch that properly this evening. I thought Patrick O'Brien describes things like the knock down walls and ductwork somewhere in the Aubrey/Maturin series but it might have been in the Bolitho series by Alexander Kent (who I've just discovered was actually Douglas Reeman, who also wrote gazillions of books set in WW2 books). Either way, when I last went to the Victory a couple of years back I was struck by how close-fitting all the officer quarters "walls" were, some seriously good carpenters back then. Look at the RH side in the photo, the brass bits are the hinges. I also remember feeling a bit of a cool breeze right down in the depths of the hold, though I bet it was hot as hell on a gun deck in battle.
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    Those are wonderful looking blocks Dan, I was about to ask if they were CNC-ed wood, but saw from your site that they are resin. Doing them in sets is a clever idea.
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    Many thanks gents. I have three small Victory "sub-projects" on the go right now; home made decals for the trophy of arms, lanterns, and the smaller cannons. The cannons are pesky creatures, there are very minor differences between the long, medium and short 12lb guns but I figure I better do it true to the figures as these are 'show guns' or I'll just kick myself later on for being lazy. Decals..... not quite there yet, still learning how to make and apply them. They are similar to kit decals but less forgiving in some ways, more so in others. Once I'm 'there' I'll do a little write up. The lanterns really are fun. The offset octagons make for an interesting little CAD exercise and, blessings, I can simply scale down the big one to get the other two sizes.
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    David, I think you’ll see a glued, butt-joined kit deck early in my log, link below, before I made my own deck. I know I put a decent bevel on mine I.e a good 1mm, and glued some hefty styrene strips to the underside to make it stay true. It was pretty easy to sand the joined deck to disguise the joint. I’m also pretty sure I was able to spread the glued hull enough to get the deck in. I’ve noticed that unused deck a few times, lurking in my scraps box, and sometimes wondered why I even bothered to make a replacement; in other words, go for it, it’ll be fine 😀. If I was doing this all over again and wanted to stick with the kit deck without any overlay, I think I would sand off the positive plank lines and scribe negative plank lines instead, after joining the main deck sections. Why? Because you’ll get a much better ‘faux wood’ effect with negative lines as the inking to simulate caulking will have grooves to sit in.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Never mind the printing, that's just button-pressing; look at the painting skills! What I'd give to be able to do that, let alone have the underlying knowledge.
  21. Kevin-the-lubber
    4th Feb 2024 And so we resume... First batch of cannons, the 24lb and 32lb, more or less complete. I resin printed replacements for both the cannons and the carriages as this was easier than modifying the kit parts, based on the drawings in McKay. So, added cyphers, cap squares and breeching rings to the cannons. For the carriages I made these with just the trucks (wheels) separate. It wasn't such a good method and I'll try something different for the 12lb-ers. The brass pin in the bottom of the front bracket is, obviously I suppose, to fix the carriage on the deck so they can't get knocked out of place once the deck is closed off. The mottled and rough finish is intentional. As these carriages will be hardly visible I experimented with spraying a peat brown artists ink to give some shading and weathering, as doing it with a brush is very tedious x 80. That very mottled one on the left is unrepresentative, the assembled one is more typical. I also took a shortcut for painting the axle hubs black - I smeared undiluted black acrylic on a palette and drew the axle tips through this. From a distance the result looks okay, but here again I will try something different for the 12lb-ers, as they will be on show. I don't think I'll be rigging any of these, as they're hidden.
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    Beautiful guns. Now I can see the real thing I can understand that unusual cascabel on the model part. Though I actually prefer the 'before' over the 'after'. I think it would be better if the restorers aged the carriages a bit. I remember a friend from years ago, who made replica antique furniture, telling me that when they made a table they would leave a chain on top in the workshop. Every time someone walked past it, they were supposed to give it a good whack with the chain. When 'aged' enough they'd polish it up and make it ready for sale. Roel, two words: selfie-stick 🤪
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    There’s a very good thread here about painting to look like metal https://modelshipworld.com/topic/35788-painting-resin-printed-cannon-bronze-color/. I’ve used Vallejo metallic bronze and their Verdi Gris to reasonably good effect but I’m not in the same league as some of the stuff in that thread.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    The cannons look much better with the trunnions moved. Though the barrels look very long for the girth and carriages. Are they true to history, Hellers best guess or recycled moulds from another kit? The original trunnion positions are very odd. By coincidence, I’ve been plodding away on the Victory’s cannons and carriages for what feels like several decades now, though in reality it’s just since Christmas. As you infer, it’s strangely relaxing and absorbing, isn’t it. No major head scratching, just rinse and repeat, rinse and repeat.
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    Although I haven't been commenting I've been following with interest and this is a fantastic achievement Bill. Not only is it a great looking build, your work rate is incredible and you're making it look easy. On top of which, here we have another build log that I'm sure will become the go-to for many that follow.

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