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Posted

I have just started the Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 model. There are several excellent build logs already available and so I plan to focus more on tips and especially the mistakes I will make. If I don’t mention a step , it’s because I followed the vanilla instructions and have nothing of value to add. I have made many paper, wood and Lego models over the past years but its been many years since I last built a plastic model. 

 

I am working from the latest instructions, enhanced by the 1987/88 version. I am also following a couple of the existing build logs I found here.

 

 

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Posted

The first good thing is that it took a month for my kit ro travel from the Netherlands to me. At first I was unhappy to have to wait but I now realise that it was a good thing. If Amazon had delivered it the next day I would have jumped straight in, as it was, I’ve spent the month reading everything I could find online. I realised that I was taking on a serious project and collected a lot of good advice.

 

My first discovery is that there isn’t a ‘correct” colour scheme. The actual colours changed over the years and so it’s a matter of selecting a style and following it.

 

Lets start

To get the deck colour I started with a black wash and then applied a Beige coat but let the black show through.

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Posted

First Mistake

The deck comes in three sections. I tried to hide the joins but I made a mistake. For my copy of the kit , the deck sections are not EXACTLY the same thickness. I worked from the underside to get a flush join but I found that the topside was a fraction off. I have clamps with flat grips and, next time, I will use a little padding on the inside to account for any variation and then concentrate on making the topside flush.

Posted

First Hint

The surface area for glue between the deck sections is relatively small and so I reinforced the joints with some scrap plastic. Not very elegant but it works. Flat strips would have been better but not all plastics work with my glue.
 
 

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Posted

Deviation 

The bow spit comes in halves. I used plastic putty to fill the hollow and so strength the part.
 
I changed the sequence of steps for the deck.  I followed the instructions as far as cementing the deck in place.  Before I fixed it, I installed the "buildings" and cleaned all of the other holes. It helped by having direct access to both sides.
 
Posted (edited)

I tried dry fitting the deck and found that it is a little short.  Aft is good and I hope that the forecastle deck will cover the gap. To give extra support to the bow, I'm trying a cross brace, I plan to  extend the other support points similarly. The emery board is temporary to give support at the right height. I will do the same from the other side and loosely join them with cotton since I don't know the exact gap.

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Edited by Simon 707
Posted (edited)

Tip

I've learnt to see a use in anything. 

I used soup cans to support the hull while painting it.

I had one of those impossible to open plastic cases on a gadget but the plastic is perfect for glass in windows.  

Wooden clothes pegs hold small parts while painting. 

Edited by Simon 707
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've had an idea (always a risky thing) to make rigging a little easier. Before I install the eyes into the deck, I'm going to put a loop of ordinary cotton through them. When I come to rigging, I can use it as a draw string. I tested it and using ordinary wood glue and twisting them together. When dry, it pulls through quite easily.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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