Adding keel to Maine Peapod - suggestions, thoughts, caveats?

[robert952]

I am considering adding a keel and sailing rig to Midwest Models' Maine Peapod (kit).  Peapods with sails were used as lighthouse tenders as well as for lobster fishing using sails to get to the ‘fishing spot.’  I thought a bit of modification of the kit would add a different dimension to this workboat. 

 

After reading appropriate chapters of Chapelle’s “American Small Sailing Craft…,” (and even Payson's "Boat Modeling") I found images where a keel was used with sails which, even with my limited knowledge of sailing, make sense.

 

Here’s the reference I am using for the build from Chapelle’s book. (Note: I blame the perpendiculars' angle because I didn't shoot the picture perfectly level over the drawing.)

 

Here’s my attempt to take the model’s assembly drawing and adding the keel (and rudder and mast).  I trimmed a copy of the kit’s drawing and went old school drafting to add the additional components.  The keel would be around 5 inches on the boat. Looking at other drawing examples I found keels ranging 3- to 7-inch.  This example at ~5 inches and gaff rig in the book from a 1937 drawing seems a good middle ground.  (I'll have some sail rig questions in the appropriate sub-forum a bit later. )  NOTE:  The model is assembled on a strong back.  So the main drawing (blue lines) is upside down.  Doing so was much easier for me to visualize what I was doing (red lines) on my drawing board.

I have a few questions and would appreciate some guidance and suggestions.  Such will also serve as a 'sanity check' (which I usually fail anyway). 

 

1.        What might be some ways to keep the keel perpendicular to the hull bottom? (The boat has a rather flat bottom amidships and shapes more to a V towards the stems.  It's a double-ender.)  Does anyone have a suggestion for just gluing the keel in place at proper angle?  I could use pins to hold the keel in place while the glue sets.  Would that be a better approach?

 

2.       I drew it as if replacing the false keel.  Any thoughts on whether I would be better off installing the false keel per the instructions and then add the ‘new keel’ or replace the false keel?  Considering the above question where I might ‘pin’ the new keel in place, putting pins into the false keel may be a better method to position the keel as the false keel (assuming I install it correctly) could guide installing the pins for the ‘new keel.’  Does this seem logical?

 

3.      I would suspect it better to assemble the keel in pieces.  The false keel is installed in two pieces.  But I am considering three pieces cut to shape for my modification with a scarf joint or similar method to join them.  Thoughts?  Foreseeable problems?  Concerns with wood grain and how to avoid problems?  (The model is boxwood, so, I would likely use that same wood.)

 

4.       I think so, but I want to ask:  Does this seem a feasible approach?  Or is there another concept/option to consider? 

 

5.       BTW, while proofreading this post, I found my note says add another breast hook to the (now) bow seat - that should be knee.  That would add better support for the oversized seat, right?) 

 

For me (and my current skill set) I am entering unsailed waters. However, I think I can face the challenges. And this seems like a way to introduce some ‘scratch build’ aspects even if on a small way.  Before  I start the build, I want to at least feel like I thought through the process. 

 

Any input or suggestions will be appreciated. 

[allanyed]

Hi Robert,

I am pretty sure the top of the keel and the bottom of the frames should be flat along the length of the vessel.  While the hull shape becomes more of a vee forward and aft of the dead flat, the bottoms of the frames are still flat or mortised.

Allan

 

Edited March 7, 2023 by allanyed

[robert952]

Thanks @allanyed.  This looks a bit like a rabbet.  Or am I over thinking this?  

[allanyed]

Hi Robert,

 

The keel does have a rabbet as well as the sternpost and stem as usual.   I was just pointing out that while there is a vee shape on the forward and aft frames, they still have a flat bottom to rest on the keel, with or without the mortice.  Half frames of course are a different story, both fore and aft.  In the case of POB instead of POF, there is a notch in the bulkhead, but the bottom would rest on a bearding line or steps at or above the rabbet.

Allan

 

Edited March 7, 2023 by allanyed