Regina by Kruginmi - Billings Boats - 1:30

[kruginmi]

After all the hyjinks with the Jylland I remembered I had another Billings Boats model in the cabinet of doom.  Started 25-30 years ago on a kitchen table it had been set aside due to issues (mostly created by me) that I didn't know how to proceed with.  I pulled the box out and bare bones inner hull assembly.

A mixed media kit (as Billings are apt to be) but a smart looking ship.  I shouldn't but decided to do a parallel build with the Jylland.

 

The issues that had stopped me where 4 fold:

1.  I had clamped the keel so hard I had introduced a rather severe hogging.

2.  While the bulkheads where perpendicular to the keel they had 'variations' left to right.

3.  The deck (I did add a false deck) was not entirely level (see above).

4.  I didn't know how to affix the planking to the forward inner stem.  They were supposed to be glued onto the inner stem, then sanded to allow the outer (visible) stem to be affixed.

 

So....first off was the keel.  I removed the existing one and introduced a nice straight one.

This didn't allow all the bulkheads to seat but that will be handled as I plank.

I have high hopes for this one.  Largely to be built out of the box.  The plastic pieces give me pause but I will use this as test subject to see how well I can get them integrated visually.  -Mark

 

[kruginmi]

For affixing the forward planking I cut a new stem post (basswood - not laminate) then added a 1/16" strip to the inside.

When affixed, this will allow the planking to fit into the groove and make planking a breeze.

To allow the planking to start I went ahead and planked the stern wall and sanded to shape.

[kruginmi]

One of the biggest visual challenges I had to get right was the bulwark cap rail.  The supplied stanchions were all over the place and obviously not a good framework.

I started by measuring the stern step up that the caprail should seemlessly join to.  I cut 1/32" basswood to this height and laminated each existing stanchion with this

This was a start but not a complete solution.  After sanding these flush externally I then rain a plank by eye starting with the stern step up and going forward.  There was some variation but the plank let me know the best fit and it worked out great.

The forward inner stem was slightly lower.  I decided to keep that height fearing issues with the bowsprit and related stuff.  This pick shows the original intent of just affixing to the forward inner post.  Much easier now.

Planking should proceed much faster than the Jylland until I hit the bulkhead issues further down.  Easy enough to fix.

Mark

[kruginmi]

So that whole stem post - how to end planking issue is now resolved.  Really the only way to do it.

Also shows the railing height issue is not more.

Mark

[kruginmi]

Not too bad for a weekend of work.  From the cabinet of doom to now with most defects fixed.

My goal is to work in concert with the Jylland.  Lay a set of planks on one, then do one on the other.  Much less waiting for glue to dry.

Mark

[kruginmi]

Lots of sins and ugliness of the lower bulkhead joins sure looks nicer when you cover it up with a garboard strake LOL.

Also finished the top four planks each side bringing the bulwarks down to the deck level.  Made the missing stanchion each side also.

Still need to pair down the stanchions to the correct width and add the inner laminate.  First is to figure out the caprail size to insure all fits underneath it nice and tidy.

Mark

[kruginmi]

Now that the Regina has 6 planks on each side (now below the deck level) this ship is rock solid.  The last issue I had in the hull from so many years ago was the wonkiness of the frame installs.  It was not textbook (LOL).  Running a test plank up and down the hull it actually wasn't too bad - EXCEPT for one frame.  This frame for whatever reason was riding too high, almost a 1/16" too high.  There were gaps on both sides over this frame at mid deck level and below.  I thought about adding shims and that was certainly possible but then another idea came to mind......

It actually was easier to just remove the frame just above where the issue became apparent, remove a 1/16" at the bottom (with some reshaping) then add spacers to push the frame down.

I am not going to say it fits perfect, but there is meat on the bones to allow some minimal shaping and all will be well.

 

I also wanted to show that soaking certain types of planks for just 30 seconds in hot water (I use the tap) and letting them dry in position prior to gluing does work very well.  The following plank had dried for 2 hours and was ready to be glued in.  Very minimal clamping.

Having too much fun.   Stay Building My Friends, Mark

[kruginmi]

With planks of limited width the process sure takes some time:

1.  Grab a length of wood (1 piece spans entire hull)

2.  Cut/Sand forward edge to match stem inset

3.  Locate on hull adding using all clamps and or other hold downs

4.  Mark where to cut after stern.

5.  Remove from hull and cut off extra at stern

6.  Soak with hot water for a minute

7.  Affix to hull using all clamps and leave to dry (3 hours)

8.  Remove, sand any edge angles required

9.  Glue to frames and plank edges

10.  Clamp.  Leave to dry 2-3 hours

 

The below picture shows me doing this for the waterways as well as the keel.  There is a lot of going down and up to the basement workroom but progress is being made.

I do need to think of the mast step before too much longer.  I need a solid (flat landing for that which restricts movement.  Easy now, not so easy with the hull closed up.

Mark

 

[ninjanorm]

i was just given this kit last year by a mate of mine - where the hull has been completed and all that needs to be done is thew upper section - sails, mast and yards and rigging. This looks like a great model once finished.