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Posted

I'm about a third done with the first layer of POB planking on my Amati Fifie. It's going well so far, using full length planks with very little tapering. That of course will soon change though.

 

With that background, Amati supplied planks that are too short for the hull so for this first part have spliced lengths together for that full length. Since the soon and upcoming planks, things wont be so pretty with some expected gaps. Since this is a double planked hull, I'm trying to understand why some builds that I've seen, the builders are puttying/filling those gaps. Is that putty really needed beyond possible depressions? Then, since  this is an RC model it will be fiber glassed then painted for water proofing.

Posted
4 hours ago, David W said:

Since this is a double planked hull, I'm trying to understand why some builds that I've seen, the builders are puttying/filling those gaps.

I have asked that question myself.  No answer yet.  Other than some compulsion against gaps between planks, I see no need for it either.

If there are hollows,  I think that scabbing actual wood veneer and paring that down would be better than any sort of Bondo or patching putty.

 

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted
On 4/4/2023 at 6:04 PM, Jaager said:

I have asked that question myself.  No answer yet.  Other than some compulsion against gaps between planks, I see no need for it either.

If there are hollows,  I think that scabbing actual wood veneer and paring that down would be better than any sort of Bondo or patching putty.

 

 

Still little (no) response to the question. Maybe because it's tradition that 'everyone' fills the gaps. Not really a big deal, just seems like a way to spend more time and materials for little or no return.

 

As far as depression filling. yes, that needs to be corrected. POB models with too few bulkheads seem to have an endemic problem with too much distance between them, allowing planks to sag. Filler blocks between them  first then a filler wood on top then sanded or otherwise fitted to proper dimensions/shape will work. I like balsa since it will form easily without distorting the planking but soft pine will also work if careful.

Posted

I agree that depressions should be filled, but that it would be far better to fill with wood than filler.  For my Triton, I filled the spaces between the bulkheads with basswood, but would use balsa wood if I had it to do over again.  Balsa is so much easier to sand/shape. 

 

Alan

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