David W
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Everything posted by David W
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OK thank you with that source. It appears that the Wes model car site is the only seller currently. Those models may be made just for his sale. Got it bookmarked for now but I will probably order the Stafford version in June or July for a fall build as I am a past regular attendee of that track plus have participated in their huge 2X yearly swap meets.
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Beautiful job! I tried to find one of these models and all I could come up with was a supplemental 12 buck(?) on sale chrome detail kit from Hobby, Inc. Looks like Salvinos has discontinued selling this model - even none on eBay as of last week. Did you do a Google of "asphalt modifieds"? I just looked and there appear to be some cars with the distributor open air while others are covered with an extension of what I call the hood scoop. There are some MSD distributors or magnetos that are very high though they do make one that's pretty low as well - have a low one on my Ford street rod engine in my '31. Of course you could just show your model with a Ford engine instead of the lChebbie. This begs the question of which brand engine does the actual supposed car owner use?
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Looks like a memory lane build to me. We have 3 tracks locally though they are dirt - Albany-Saratoga about 6-8 miles from me where the Bodine brothers reigned not too many years back, Fonda where Stewart Friesen runs if not NASCAR truck racing (30 miles) and Lebanon Valley (45 miles). I would make one or two of those tracks every weekend but real life (wife and kids!) somehow arrived. I'm interested and am posting this to make sure I can watch the build as it might just land on my eventually list
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Beautiful build, Ken. I like the furled sail look since it doesn't hide all those little details that took so much time to finish. I can only hope mine turns out somewhere near as nice your perfect Fifie
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Ken. once more. looking fine Those brooms - take a look at those cheap single use brushes at Home Depot/Lowe's. They are sold as 'chip brushes'. I haven't made any up yet but any light colored paint brush should work. Those 31 net buoys were easy to paint and a fun project. After drilling the hole I stuck mine on a tooth pick set in a chunk of Styrofoam and went at it. Two coats of orange add the eye and done.
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Ken, that Fifie is really looking great. Congratulations on assembling that lifeboat so nicely. I suspect that there were more then a couple strong words said while building it.
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Ken, your Fifie is really looking nice I'm envious of your progress in only 14 months - which is about what I have on mine. Setting up for an R/C system took way longer then expected with a better/larger prop shaft, motor, ESC, receiver and battery mounts. I have made up most of the individual deck items plus made a larger rudder. I'm currently fixing a messed up area on the first planking layer. Oh and your next 'challenge' will be the @#$% supplied fishing dory which will probably only take 20 hours or so! Looking forward to your next update
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Ken - you are doing a great job on this model!! Those fish hatches are a real pain with that post and ring assembly. I think it took me over an hour to assemble the first one for the wheel house door then decided that it was way out of scale and just used the post but then the door on my model has been modified to slide and open - which was a fun as well as pretty easy endeavor since I already made the roof a bit larger. Still not sure that the hatch rings are 'right' yet as they too seem to be too heavy. Looks like those blocks need to be redrilled with a bit larger hole when I get to that point. Makes me snicker when the front page of the Amati IB says that it should take 100-150 hours to build. HA!
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All good information! Thanks folks I suspect that medium will be my choice and put Starbond on my Amazon wish list if for no other reason then that I have some of their activator. I considered the thick but the set time can be too long for the way this boat's hull is configured and the thin is too fast for my level of experience planking.
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Someday soon I'll start the second planking my Fifie build. I'll be using CA glue. Of course I would like to use PVA but that's not the best way with this convoluted hull ship.that is danged hard to clamp planking other then with nails which on the second layer is not a good thing I've seen suggestions here and elsewhere that should use use extra thick, or maybe medium, or then thin or extra thin. Any comments as I really want a CA to set up pretty quickly. Thanks
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Interesting tool and probably a bunch more suitable then my floor mounted 16 speed, 3/4Hp drill press for model building. My only concern with one of these is that power pack and how it will survive long term vs a 120VAC unit with a rheostat for speed
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A display case means that you will cutting dimensional lumber to size. For that a good 10" portable contractor saw like a DeWalt or Ryobi would be best using a good fence and sliding miter gauge plus many of these are pretty light weight. I have heavy duty cast iron table JET JTS-10 with a Delta fence and INCRA miter gauge. This saw weighs in at a lot of pounds but with that said, when 'tuned' it will shave pieces down to .010 but is overkill if you aren't doing a lot of work and moving often. Something like a Byrnes or Proxxon are great hobby saw but not big or powerful enough to size dimensional materials.
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Looking even better then the last post!!! I just blew the summer's dust and cobwebs off my Fifie on Monday and decided that I needed a plank bender since the first planking layer is using spliced full length lengths of wood strips and will need some edge bending which the hair curler I had been using just isn't hot enough.
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The boat is really starting to look great👍 "I have run out of 1mm x 1mm walnut planks used to simulate caulking." Instead of using the 1x1mm wood, you could use a fairly heavy black or brown thread Those skylights and hatch covers can be a royal pain where you sit, especially if you have too many thumbs on each hand. If you haven't started on the pilot house, you have another 'treat' coming. While you are further along then my Fifie endeavor, I've jumped ahead while glue was drying and have put the pilot house together. I extended the roof by 1/16" - 3/32" each side since it just didn't look right as Amati supplied it and looking at photos of real boats of the same design
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As a note to drobinson and others, 3m make several widths of fine line masking tapes that can be found at most auto body and parts stores - and it might be fresher then what AMAZON might supply. My history is one time with AMAZON for automotive masking tapes - and it wasn't good.
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- Fast Response Cutter
- Dumas
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Glue for second planking
David W replied to Ian K B's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Do you actually need filler? Or are there major low spots. Or are you just trying to fill between individual Planks. If filling between individual planks, consider that it's really out of sight and has no bearing on the completed model. If you have significant low spots, consider filling with a softer wood glued in place then sanded to shape instead of a soft filler that any kind of cement wont adhere to well. -
Looks to me that you are doing a fantastic job with a less then great model kit. I have a Dumas kit that I drag out occasionally and putter with - bought it in 1986 and it may never get done! Fully half of my model is replacement materials for that which didn't fit, wood that split or was missing from the sealed box.
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- Fast Response Cutter
- Dumas
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Caulk for RC hull?? RADIO
David W replied to Ian_Grant's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Ian, there is another finishing (sanding) resin that's often sold in hobby shops that I've also considered and since I was late on my way to the dentist as I wrote the last, just plain forgot. Take a look at this as well. It has been out of stock recently but looks like AMAZON US at least, has it again: https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Finishing-Adhesives/dp/B0006O8ESK?th=1 -
Caulk for RC hull?? RADIO
David W replied to Ian_Grant's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I can fully understand not wanting to fiberglass a model but maybe just a coat or two of FINISHING resin, polyester comes to mind. I'm (slowly) building an Amati Fifie for R/C useand in the same dilemma 'glass or just a couple coats of resin then paint. I've' already sealed the inside with spar varnish plus paint but not fully comfortable with the outer skin/planking only spar varnished. This or similar is what I'm looking at using:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZ1CU1G/?coliid=I1GHA86B7RTVXO&colid=2GHV6Y2C7OD8R&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it -
Still little (no) response to the question. Maybe because it's tradition that 'everyone' fills the gaps. Not really a big deal, just seems like a way to spend more time and materials for little or no return. As far as depression filling. yes, that needs to be corrected. POB models with too few bulkheads seem to have an endemic problem with too much distance between them, allowing planks to sag. Filler blocks between them first then a filler wood on top then sanded or otherwise fitted to proper dimensions/shape will work. I like balsa since it will form easily without distorting the planking but soft pine will also work if careful.
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Be aware that Kleen Strip products are pretty good products to use around the house. If you want a professional level version find an auto body paint supplier or even a NAPA store. I haven't purchased any in a few years but the pro level cost was pretty inexpensive an a quart will probably last years (and why I haven't needed to buy more
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I'm about a third done with the first layer of POB planking on my Amati Fifie. It's going well so far, using full length planks with very little tapering. That of course will soon change though. With that background, Amati supplied planks that are too short for the hull so for this first part have spliced lengths together for that full length. Since the soon and upcoming planks, things wont be so pretty with some expected gaps. Since this is a double planked hull, I'm trying to understand why some builds that I've seen, the builders are puttying/filling those gaps. Is that putty really needed beyond possible depressions? Then, since this is an RC model it will be fiber glassed then painted for water proofing.
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Carlo, my model build is going very slowly plus being the first after many years of other free time eaters have not felt that opening a build log is a positive I'll drop some photos in a thread later.
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Carlo - you are probably right but being a wuss, probably wouldn't with the deck material being less then ..060" thick (many Americans don't fully understand metric measurement!). Then, my single history with Sikaflex sealant is that I ended up with about as much on me as my caravan's window replacement job. I have enjoyed that scratch FIFIE build and hope my R/C kit turns out decent even with the MDF bulkheads.
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