Polaris by David_T - OcCre - 1:50

[David_T]

Hello;

 

Over the weekend, I began work on OcCre's Polaris.  I choose this model as it appear to a good kit for a beginner.  There was one for sale in the area that I purchased last week.  I have looked over amazing build logs of this ship that have been book marked for future reference.

 

It seems the place to start is a picture of the box.

 

 

 

The following weekend, I opened the box and checked that all the pieces were present and counted.   The false keel had a very small bend in the middle but didn't seem to be a bad as others have shared.

 

After gluing the ribs in place, I learned two things; use less glue and buy white glue.  Not shown in the picture are the corner pieces I used to square the ribs to the feel.  They are were to big to glue more than rib at a time.

 

 

While waiting for each rib to dry, I managed to get the deck plates marked up with a 7 HB pencil and marked the center line on the deck plate. 

 

 

 

Sunday was a trip to store to buy wood glue that dry's clear and some contact cement. 

 

Comments and critiques are welcomed.

 

David

Edited April 30 by David_T
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[David_T]

Finished gluing the deck boards to the boat last night. 

 

Started with a tube of Le Page's contact cement spread with a brush.   It was too sticky and created a 'mask' that pulled away from the wood when removing the planks from the 'contact cement application jig' suggested by OcCre.

 

After laying down the first side, I started on the next side but used a new can of LePage's contact cement.  After laying down the glue, I realized I hadn't removed the planking material covering the mast hole.  

 

After all the planks were down, I used a wooden handle to press down on the planks.  I was a too heavy handed - in the picture you can see the tool marks.  

 

While trimming the excess planks, I came across 4 or 5 places where the tips of the planks where attached to the deck plate.  I used Lepage No clamp glue to attach them.  (I would have used super glue, but none was found at my regular store when the contact cement was purchased.)  This glue had a firmer consistency then the regular white glue.  I had to do this over again, I would use this for the deck planking as I able to apply it precisely.

 

After sanding the deck smooth, I notice a few places where the contact cement "mask" caused gaps between deck boards.  

 

 

I hope to fill those with gaps with saw dust of very fine super glue.

 

Before calling it a night, drying fitting the masts and the deck to the skeleton didn't show any problems.

 

The sandpaper I'm using is not bringing me joy - but it could be me and not the sandpaper.  I've been using 320 grit which is much finer than I used to using and find the sheets wearing out quicker than expected.  Some experimenting will be required with different girt and brands.

 

Cheers,

David

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  The deck is looking great, and you have the opportunity now to consider 'random' plank butt joints, instead of strictly geometrical arrangements often seen ... by that I mean where a 'standard' scale plank length is decided on and the next strip of planking has a joint put exactly halfway between the joints of the neighboring planks - and so on.  Some have 'staggered' the joints by thirds or quarters to make a 'herringbone' pattern.  BTW these joints are incised by a very sharp chisel of the exact width needed (one can make one's own tool, or adjust the width of a mini-chisel by grinding).

 

  In a shipyard, there were likely lots of planking stock from the mill of roughly the same length, but end splits (checks) bad knots, warpage, twist, etc. had to be cut out before use - and this would randomize the lengths of clear stock suitable for decking, ergo a random pattern in the resultant deck that would not 'draw attention' to itself as a very regular pattern might.  The question of doweling at the joints depends on the scale of the project and the taste of the user - and there are several ways to approach that (if desired) elsewhere in the forum logs.

 

  The subject of caulking also comes up - with various approaches to that (some have darkened the edges of the plank stock with graphite or crayon, each with its own characteristics ... anything liquid tends to 'wick' into the planking stock from the edge - not a good thing).  With the planking in place having slight natural gapping, one might consider (after doing a test piece) pressing in actual dark caulk with a putty knife into the gaps - removing most of the excess with the tool before letting it dry.  Then a light sanding with very fine grit would clear the planks of any film residue.

[David_T]

Thank you for the suggestions Snug Harbor.  Unfortunately, events continued between my post and yours. 🙃   I read about that in another thread (apologies for not remembering where), but not confident enough in my creative side to attempt this.   The deck has been attached to the false keel with the plank pattern suggested by OcCre.  I also struggled to obtain a consistent peg hole size and alignment.  I've made a note to create a template for the next project.

 

While test fitting the deck, bending the deck revealed another place where the glue didn't hold. 

 

 

That was solved with a little bit of super glue.

 

Unlike other's people's experience, I was surprised that the ribs fit into the deck cutouts with a soothing click.   Glue and clamps were applied and I waited.

 

 

Over the weekend, the battens (?) were glued in place at the bow and stern.

 

Last night, the sanding began on the bow blocks.  Comparing my bow profile to some other builds suggests I have the wrong profile.  A test fit shows larger gap between the bow and plank that I think should there.  It looks like I need to take more from the from the portion of the batten hidden by my finger.  

 

 

One deck plank at the bow was loose.

 

I'll start sanding the stern when time permits and gauge my progress with planks.

 

Regards,

David

Edited April 26 by David_T

[David_T]

Earlier this week I completed sanding the blocks at the stern of.  Last night and this evening was time to tackle the bulwarks 

 

Bent one bulwark last night using hot water, clamps a can of paint.

 

 

I started the next one in the following afternoon.  It only cured for 4 hours.  While both sides need further adjustments, I found the first one had a better profile at the bow from being immobilized for a longer period of time.

 

Dry fitting revealed that a few places along the deck edge need some additional sanding.

 

Needed two nails and CA glue to affix the bulwarks.

 

 

While dry fitting the other side, I discovered a problem that I assume was caused by me, but I can't figure how it happened. Did I twist the boards while bending them?   The bulwark on the other side was too long and stuck out past the first bulwark.   Some gentle sanding and it would fit nicely.  A new hole was carefully was cutout.

 

 

While inspecting the fit, I noticed a piece of the deck plank has disappeared.  I hope that gap and the discoloration from the CA glue will covered up with the interior trim installed down the road.

 

 

Before calling it a night, I saw that one side the bulwark had dropped considerable by the bow.  I was able to cut the glue and gently prying out the nail with not damage.  Putting that nail back so that the two ends lined up made a mess.   For the next boat, I 'll have to figure out how to test fit both pieces at the same time.  Perhaps more nails will permit reposition or my bending skills will be better.

 

 

Before going further, I'll read over 'Chuck's planking guide' and watching the videos two or three more times.  He makes it look easy, but I know enough that's because of his experience.   

 

Regards,

David

Edited April 28 by David_T

[SiriusVoyager]

As far as the bulwarks, Occre's can definitely be tricky.  Definitely line them up as best you can, but fortunately you be planking over them, which can cover up small alignment errors.

 

I do have one suggestion about planking that I think Occre does wrong in their instructions.  They have you plank both layers prior to placing the keel.  I would suggest attaching the keel to the first layer of planking, then install the second layer of planking.  I followed the instructions and had a problem where the keel didn't fit properly over the planked hull, and I didn't have a good way to fix it.  By installing the keel prior to the second layer of planking, if something isn't shaped quite right, it can be filled in, then the second layer planking can be shaped to fit around the keel covering the filler.

Edited April 30 by SiriusVoyager

[David_T]

Thanks for the suggestion Eric.

 

Looking at other build logs for the Polaris, it appears several folks started planning for the keel when laying down the first layer of planking.

 

Reading over lining and planking guides from Chuck and "Simple Hull Planking" from De Bakker and Brooke in preperation of the next step.  The weather has turned nicer though, which will lead to time outdoors and less time on the Polaris.

 

Cheers

David