Citadel paint better for hand painting?

[Frank Burroughs]

I've seen on YouTube that Citadel paint better for hand painting.  Image this is very subjective.  Why would Citadel be better when painting by hand?

 

Right now Tamiya acrylic paint is my choice.  Beginners luck, right.  If Citadel paint is better for hand painting and I start buying it, can both brands be used on one model?  Hate to have the Tamiya paints go to waste.

[BenD]

For brush painting, it really comes down to how much thinning is needed. I've found the Vallejo paints made for air-brush are really nice out of the bottle for hand brushing.

 

I was looking at some Citadel paints at a hobby shop a few days ago. I should have bought some to try them out. The Vallejo model color ones I have need quite a lot of thinner to make the brush strokes disappear. 

 

As for mixing paints on models, I've personally had no issues. I only use acrylics. 

 

I also bought some mixing balls a few months ago. They are really amazing at getting a bottle mixed up and ready to go. I highly recommend them to anyone. 

[Toolmaker]

Citadel paint is designed for hand painting and it really is very good to use.

On the other hand Tamiya acrylic (although it’s solvent based) is designed for use in an airbrush and can be difficult to hand brush. Add some retarder for better results.

[Thukydides]

So this is a bit of a dangerous subject with more opinions than their are paint brands, but I will throw in my two cents as someone who has been painting miniatures for almost a decade and has tried many of the paint brands out there.

 

When it comes to paint for models the most important thing is that it uses a small pigment size. Any of the major brands (Vallejo, citadel, army painter, kimera, two thin coats, P3, AK, etc…) all should do the job. I have never used Tamia so I can’t comment on it. All acrylic paint should be interchangeable, it just depends on which ones you prefer.

 

So really it comes down to the individual paints. There are variations in thickness, flow, gloss vs matt etc… Much of this is personal preference. I have certain paints that I find are better in different brands.

 

For example my favourite black is the vallejo model colour one, but I also love citadel’s incubi darkness for darkening red. AK has a really nice flat white, while the citadel one is awful.

 

When it comes to citadel the main downsides are the price point ($$$$$) and those awful pots they come in (buy some dropper bottles and transfer the paint to them). But that being said at least half my paint collection is citadel because they have some really nice colours (I love their reds).

 

All paints need to be thinned down (my general rule of thumb is 1 part water to 1 part paint, but it will depend on the brand), you can test this by painting a little on the side of your hand. If you can still see the lines then you are good, if you can’t your paint is too thick.

 

Also make yourself a wet pallet (google it and thank me later).

Edited April 16 by Thukydides

[Frank Burroughs]

2 hours ago, BenD said:

mixing balls

Great idea!  My toothpicks will have to do until the next spending spree.

 

1 hour ago, Toolmaker said:

Add some retarder for better results.

Glycerin and distilled water is what I use.

 

1 hour ago, Thukydides said:

downsides are the price point

I'd rather buy better paint as ship modeling goes along.  When I do not know until the differences are experienced, inexpensive suits.  Once the results of a really good are seen, I'll pay the price.

 

A wet pallet is a must.  Make your own or buy a good one, do it.  I bought the best I could buy.  It has a center tray over the wet pallet that holds paint.  First did not use it.  Now it is used on long painting days.  Not only does it keep the paint wet longer, the center tray is like an artist paillet.

[Frank Burroughs]

On 4/16/2024 at 4:32 PM, BenD said:

bought some mixing balls a few months ago

 

bought them

think the are great