Toolmaker
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Bending hard brass.
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Sloop Speedwell by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop, 1752 - POF
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Sloop Speedwell by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop, 1752 - POF
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Bending hard brass.
Toolmaker replied to navarcus's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
It might be worthwhile getting a larger piece of brass and machine the part you require. Saw and files or power tools if you have them. I think this method would be more easily controlled and offer you a better chance of success. Brass is quite soft and files to shape quickly. -
Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop, 1752 - POF
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Can I ask if any of sets 1&2 have been sent across the Atlantic, and if so can you indicate the cost of the carriage? Thank you.
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OUTSTANDING Mini Drill
Toolmaker replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
For me, that would be a non starter as it lacks the control necessary for much of the work we do on model ships. To use it one handed relies on pressure to create a screwing effect. If you use it 2 handed the workpiece needs to be fixed. Unless I have the piece fixed in a mill/drill machine then I always use one of these; Designed for one handed use, pressure easily controlled on start and break through. The blue one is my favourite as it has a mini chuck and the bearing system works well.
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Citadel paint is designed for hand painting and it really is very good to use. On the other hand Tamiya acrylic (although it’s solvent based) is designed for use in an airbrush and can be difficult to hand brush. Add some retarder for better results.
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Drill bit suggestions
Toolmaker replied to SiriusVoyager's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any decent HSS, high speed steel, bit should hold up, hand drill or otherwise. Avoid carbide drills unless in a powered milling machine type environment. They are too brittle and prone to break easily when used in/for the purses e you describe. -
Apologies if this is drifting from your build but I feel it’s worth noting for people looking to build to scale. I just checked five different 25lb monofilament fishing lines and they were all different. The range was from 0.37mm to 0.52mm. Now 0.15mm which is .006 inch does not seem much, but the variation is actually more than 40%. Hence me suggesting it is better to know the required diameter rather than the breaking strain. Very nice start by the way.
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The mark for the “planking band” takes care of this. Prior to marking any bulkheads you have divided the hull into x amount of planking bands with, usually, narrow tape. This is marked as the bottom of the planking band. You would now determine how many strakes from your existing planks to the bottom of the band and mark your bulkheads accordingly. I understand you are up to date to this point. As for marking the filler block, you are still looking to mark the same number of strakes to the bottom of the band. Divide the distance from existing planking yo the bottom of the band by the number of strakes and mark up. if you wanted to mark all along the filler block you can lay your paper from the mark on bulkhead 1 to the mark on the rabbet and pencil along the paper top but I don’t find that necessary. if I have missed the point of your question then I apologise for misunderstanding it. Regards Paul
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Outstanding high standards Glenn. Every picture an inspiration. I have high ideals, which of course is not the same as high standards, but I would be beyond joyous if able to match those standards you are displaying. I am learning my trade on Cheerful but 2025 will be Winchelsea year and along with Chuck’s monographs I shall be having your build log with me as escort. Thank you Paul
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I think using the breaking strain of the line as a size measurement can be misleading. It would be better to look for a correct diameter rather than the breaking strain. That way you would also know what size drill to use. Alternatively, measure the line with a vernier and buy the drill to suit.
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Diana 1794 by DaveBaxt - Caldercraft - 1:64
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Hey Nic, Don’t be taken in by that fella above called No Idea, he does have an idea. I would concur with him and go for a Vanguard models kit. In a large part because they are in the UK and if you have any issues they are not far away. My current builds are from USA sourced suppliers but I got a couple of Vanguard kits under my belt first. I would suggest this kit to test your mettle; https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/fifie-lady-eleanor/ The hull shape gives you the best chance of success at this early stage and you can probably buy the kit and all the tools and paints required for under £200 quid. If you go for it and need advice along the way, just shout out. it was my first dabble at wooden boats and I have lots of photo’s etc Good luck bud Paul
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I feel like I’m about to be given a most obvious answer, but as I don’t know, I have to ask. From a ship design point of view, what was the thinking behind the cupola? Why bother?
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop, 1752 - POF
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It’s the angle that the photograph is taken that is misleading you. It’s the same detail in both pictures.
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Grainy, if there is such a word. Its no surprise as 3d printing of metal is termed "additive manufacturing". The process is done from grains of metal. It is generally done for very bespoke products and oft times it is more cost effective to machine the parts This video gives a good overview about the process and why it can be expensive. That said, cost are coming down with basic machines now affordable to hobbyists. I'm certainly no expert but have bought sintered metal products in the past.
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Making lifeboat small mast for 1:200 Yamato
Toolmaker replied to Olaf's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Certainly 0.4mm/0.020” sizes in straight brass wire are available as I use it myself. -
Nice barbie mate. Great planning and equally good execution.
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