Saucy Jack by cdrusn89 - Vanguard Models - 1/64th

[cdrusn89]

Girlfriend wanted a ship model to fit in a specific space, constrained both horizontally and vertically.

 

This one fits the requirements so her we go.

 

I have some experience with vanguard kits so think I know what to expect, more or less.

[cdrusn89]

One of the things I really like about the Vanguard kits is how quickly the hull structure goes together.

 

Here after less than two days efforts I am almost ready to start planking.

 

Once the lower counter dries (I used full strength PVA since you have to get the forward corners to wrap around the structure) I add the keel and stem and then "let the planking (first layer) begin!

[cdrusn89]

Inner bulwark (parts 92 and 93) pinned in position and "painted" with 60/40 PVA/H2O

 

I will let this dry overnight and then the real fun begins tomorrow.

[cdrusn89]

I have four rows of planking on each side completed and have used a single plank in each row from stem to stern so far.

 

Unlike some of my previous attempts at hull planking this time I am using medium CA to attach the planks to the bulkheads, one at a time after appropriate (I hope) tapering, so far only at the bow.

 

After the plank is in place I use a small brush and paint 50/50 PVA/H2O in the joint between planks.

 

so far so good - I will put two or three more rows from the op then and the garboard plank and work up to meet the upper band. I want the last row of planks to be below the turn of the bilge where what inevitably turns out to be a pretty "unusual" run of planking is not too visible - although this is only the first layer I need the practice.

[cdrusn89]

When I got to the port side fifth row I decided to split that plank.

This is the plank (at least on this side) that completes the more or less horizontal run of planks - the next row will start up the stern post area.

 

I had to do a little surgery on the supporting bulkheads as I thought there was too much vertical movement at the very aft end of the plank.

 

But in the end I think it worked out okay.

 

Because I did not get the stern transom pattern on exactly in the center (as you can see below) the starboard side fifth row will not land in the same place as the port. I am not sure what I will do about that now - perhaps use a slightly wider plank (at least the after half) and use the extra width at the stern to bring the plank to the horizontal/vertical transition like the port side.

Edited May 12 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Six rows on each side. I used split planks for both rows five and six as making things"fit" at both ends is harder with a single plank. And there are no extra points for doing it the hard way.

 

Successfully made the transition to the stern post. I had to add a little "sealer" to the starboard side.

 

If I could just do this well planking Sphinx I would be a happy camper.

 

Next is to add the garboard strake and then work from there back towards the sheer.

 

[cdrusn89]

The first layer of planking is complete.

 

The starboard side has the first "coat" of thinned filler applied and some of the filler "straight" (see below). The port side planking has the 50/50 PVA/H2O that was painted on the last few rows of planking drying.

 

On the starboard side there was a significant discontinuity between the bulwark planking and the first row of planking near the bow. Clearly there was some problem with my fairing of the hull in that area.  So I will attempt to fair the two areas together with filler so the second layer will not make a repeat performance.

 

I will try and get this layer smooth using several courses of thinned filler, 220 grit sandpaper. and auto body spray paint with filler. That course of action worked (finally it seemed like a dozen  courses but was actually significantly less) on the hull of HMS Sphinx.

Edited May 13 by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

With filler on the port side of the hull drying I turn my attention to the spars.

 

Six spars but only three (bowsprit,main and topmast) need tapering. I am not crazy about the dark colored wood but since they are all the same and since making relatively long thin spars out of rectangular stock can get pretty tricky I will use these.

 

Also - no painting so one less thing to accomplish.

[cdrusn89]

Main and top mast completed just need to add the line to the double block on the aft side of the lower mast cap - it will be the throat halyard for the gaff.

 

The two pieces are not yet glued together. Too much opportunity for damage with long, thin "things".

 

Working the other spars and the hull is in the paint booth for its first coat of primer + filler. Will let that dry overnight and the prepare for the second "try".

 

The replacement HMS Sphinx kit looks to be here on Thursday so I need to keep pressing on the Saucy Jack. I would like to get it to the stage where I can work on it a little at a time while I rebuild the Sphinx hull.

Edited Tuesday at 11:07 PM by cdrusn89

[Rick310]

Nice!

Rick

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Rick!

 

Anyway i got the rest of the spars completed and have the appropriate blocks and such attached as per the instructions. The bowsprit and boom still have some extra length that makes for a handy place to grab them while applying the Wipe-on-Poly. For the spars I did that with a small disposable "brush" as trying to use a cloth is very hard around all the "stops" that seem to be attached at every opportunity.

 

I also have the hull in good enough shape to proceed. to my dismay I find that the primer plus filler that I previously bought at an auto parts store is no longer carried. IO tried some Rust-oleum Primer plus filler from Walmart but I either bought the wrong one or this is a very different product from what I used before as the filler clogs up the sand paper in very short order - which did not happen with whatever ir was I used previously - of course I do not have a can lying around.

 

So now to trim up the over long spars and start preps for hull planking layer 2.

 

Edited Thursday at 02:25 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

When I went to add the outer "patterns" to the keel I noticed that in addition to the slots not being equidistant from the ends they are also not equidistant from the top (or bottom). Don't ask me how I know but it IS possible to get them on "upside down". I believe the correct orientation is with the larger portion toward the bottom of the keel. It IS possible to get at least one on the other way but the difficulty getting the second one on caused my to re-examine things and come to the above realization.

 

 

 

I moved on to the lower counter outer "pattern". Having learned that it is entirely possible for the part to slip while adding the rubber bands I decided to form the part first and then glue it down. As I have seen before, when completely dry the pear wood will retain the shape assumed when wet. Once that is done I will go back and add the outer keel (and stern post) patterns and get on with the second layer of planking.

Edited Thursday at 02:33 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

I am still fiddling around with the stern pieces. Can't seem to get everything to fit as they should.

 

While slowly dealing with that I have been assembling the so called deck furniture.

 

I have the fish hatch, companionway and forward hatch assembled and have applied (by brush) a coat of Wipe-on-Poly.

 

I will add the rope to the hatches after the poly is dry. FYI - I am using  Syren .018 Ultra Tan line for the hatch lines. In fact I am using Syren line in most everyplace I can. The smallest they make is .008" so I am using the provided (or similar) for the .1mm (.004") lines both dark and light.

 

Here the hatches drying along with the line on my makeshift spool.

[cdrusn89]

At last - the outer bulwarks and first row of the second layer are done.

 

I am using "medium CA" to glue the planks down - instructions say "gel" but my "thick CA" is really thick and says it is "gap-filling" which is not some thing that would be helpful if the CA fills a gap that needs to be occupied by a plank in the next row.

The transition from the transom to the side planking did not go as well as I had hoped. I cut some small "filler" pieces and jammed them into the openings then had to modify the ends of the first row of planks to fit into the remaining opening. I am not sure how this is going to look after a bit of sanding but it will have to do as I am fresh out of ideas to make this area look better. At least it is somewhat consistent from side to side.

 

 

[cdrusn89]

Both sides planked to the transition to stern post.

 

I used full length planks until the last one since the fit is kinda critical at each end.

 

Moving to garboard plank now then work up toward what is already done until that proves unworkable which may be sooner than I might hope.