Strategy reducing plank width consistently

[Ronald-V]

It was a bit difficult to find an answer to this with the search function, so I'll do it this way.

 

I'm busy planking the deck of my Sphinx and now I want to make let's say 5mm wide planks narrower to 4.5mm.

How do you tackle this so that you consistently get the same size and do a whole batch this way.

I do it myself now per piece with a wood plane and sanding stick, but maybe there is an easier option. Just wondering if there is an easier way. 

 

Normally people would use a table saw and a sheet of material I assume, but say you have only 5mm planks available  

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   Tandy leather used to offer a tool called the 'stript - ease' - pictured below (I still use mine).  It is for cutting uniform width strips of leather - and if you start with either a round (or rounded edge oblong) piece of leather, you can make a very long continuous thong or even pretty narrow lacing leather.  The second picture shows how I set the bit of razor blade at an angle ... seemed to cut better - like using a block plane at a 'skewed' angle. This tool is not available (leather crafts are not as popular as they once were - and Tandy stores were close when they went to online sales), and one might be on eBay ...

 

  However, there IS a strip cutter online on the Tandy site called the Craftool Strip Cutter (third picture below).  It might actually be a better tool, since there is a pair of outriggers (adjustable for the stock thickness).  This may keep the stock from lifting up, which I find happens with the original cutter - depending on how one holds the stock.  With either jig, for cutting wood, you have to be mindful how the grain runs - and only trim the side where any grain rises away from the cutter.  That way, it won't 'dig in' to the stock as it may if one cuts into 'diving' grain.  This also can happen if too much wood is being trimmed (trying to save time).  Marking the strip stocks to be narrowed with a penciled arrow can prevent accidentally reversin the stock from the way you need to draw it through.

 

  The way to narrow wood strips is to take several light cuts, where all the stock you want narrowed is passed through the jig  taking off a quarter mm or so.  Then adjust to take a little more, until you get the strip width wanted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  I used to teach handicrafts at a summer camp, so I inventoried the cutter as a 'stripteaser' ...          Johnny

[Ronald-V]

29 minutes ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

   Tandy leather used to offer a tool called the 'stript - ease' - pictured below (I still use mine).  It is for cutting uniform width strips of leather - and if you start with either a round (or rounded edge oblong) piece of leather, you can make a very long continuous thong or even pretty narrow lacing leather.  The second picture shows how I set the bit of razor blade at an angle ... seemed to cut better - like using a block plane at a 'skewed' angle. This tool is not available (leather crafts are not as popular as they once were - and Tandy stores were close when they went to online sales), and one might be on eBay ...

 

  However, there IS a strip cutter online on the Tandy site called the Craftool Strip Cutter (third picture below).  It might actually be a better tool, since there is a pair of outriggers (adjustable for the stock thickness).  This may keep the stock from lifting up, which I find happens with the original cutter - depending on how one holds the stock.  With either jig, for cutting wood, you have to be mindful how the grain runs - and only trim the side where any grain rises away from the cutter.  That way, it won't 'dig in' to the stock as it may if one cuts into 'diving' grain.  This also can happen if too much wood is being trimmed (trying to save time).  Marking the strip stocks to be narrowed with a penciled arrow can prevent accidentally reversin the stock from the way you need to draw it through.

 

  The way to narrow wood strips is to take several light cuts, where all the stock you want narrowed is passed through the jig  taking off a quarter mm or so.  Then adjust to take a little more, until you get the strip width wanted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  I used to teach handicrafts at a summer camp, so I inventoried the cutter as a 'stripteaser' ...          Johnny

That would be the same as this much cheaper one on Amazon right?

 

https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/Walfront-Leather-Craftool-Adjustable-Cutting/dp/B076B1WF9H

 

It's an interesting piece for sure

Edited August 26 by Ronald-V

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Fair question but ...  everything is relative.  $16 vs $30 is large expressed as a percentage, but then $14 does not represent a 'lot' of money per se.  You obviously want the best tool for the purpose, so if the cheaper one turned out to have disadvantages - you wouldn't be happy with it compared to the other.  Soooo  ... the $14 question is Which one is better?  Now below I've pasted a Youtube where a guy compares both.  He starts out noting what he considers to be the main deficiency of the Tandy when it comes to cutting thick leather strap - and that is breakage of blade or wood with use.

 

  He manipulates a sketch (cleverly) to demonstrate the differences - but the wood on either side of the blade on the cheaper tool is exaggerated in the sketch when compared to what is actually on the tool.  If you watch the whole video, his opinion keeps going DOWN concerning the cheaper tool due to a couple of things:  1.)  the possible gap (to accommodate different stock thicknesses) is WAY less on the cheaper one.  2.) even though the end knob looks better than the metal thumbscrew of the Tandy, there is almost NO adjustment on the cheaper one.  3.) the blades on the cheaper one are non-standard, with no indication of haw to get replacements (although they can doubtlessly be honed as needed) 4.)  He doesn't like the 'feel' and lighter weight of the cheaper one - probably like comparing hickory with something more akin to basswood.  His conclusion is that the Tandy is superior.  5.)  The cheaper blade sticks out a lot both top and bottom ... and this seems dangerous - at least a slip could cause a nasty cut ... whereas the Tandy blade is entirely covered by the reinforcing plates.  6.)  the end screws are easily adjusted with a screw driver on the Tandy, compared to the the need of a hex key (not included0 for the cheaper tool.

 

  At the end of the video, the guy says he wants to send the cheaper one back.

 

  Now I realize that the application at hand is to trim the width of relative thin stock used for planking ... so having a more limited thickness capability on the cheaper tool would not be a disadvantage compared to a user who wants to cut thicker leather.

 

  I also note that there will be far less force to trim planking stock than to cut thick leather, so the wood in question on the tool would not be likely to break.  The available wood on my own stript-easer is even LESS, but there has never been breakage.  I also note that there are metal re-enforcing plates top and bottom on the Tandy tool, that is adjusted, make breakage unlikely.  Once can just as easily glue  reinforcement wood to the leading edge of the Tandy jig if one has any doubt.

 

  The Tandy blades have available replacements (if one does not want to hone occasionally), and they are not as wide as the cheaper ones.  This will permit the mounting of the Tandy blade at an angle (before tightening), which I've always found to be an advantage.  Since the application at hand is for thinner stock, so it is unlikely that blade breakage will be a problem.  After all, the guy in the video was running LOTs of 1/4" belt leather (for commercial purposes) through the Tandy tool.  If the greater width of the cheaper blade would hold up better for thick stock, the inability of getting a thicker gap between the horizontal pieces effectively nullify any advantage in maximum blade strength.

 

  As for me,  I'm going to try the Tandy.  But each individual should make a choice based on their own tastes and preferences.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=reviews+of+craftool+strap+cutter&rlz=1C5MACD_enUS1049US1049&oq=reviews+of+craftool+starp&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j33i10i160l2j33i299j33i671.11968j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:484cd395,vid:y4ATkSRR-Nw,st:0

Edited August 26 by Snug Harbor Johnny

[Ronald-V]

6 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  Fair question but ...  everything is relative.  $16 vs $30 is large expressed as a percentage, but then $14 does not represent a 'lot' of money per se.  You obviously want the best tool for the purpose, so if the cheaper one turned out to have disadvantages - you wouldn't be happy with it compared to the other.  Soooo  ... the $14 question is Which one is better?  Now below I've pasted a Youtube where a guy compares both.  He starts out noting what he considers to be the main deficiency of the Tandy when it comes to cutting thick leather strap - and that is breakage of blade or wood with use.

 

  He manipulates a sketch (cleverly) to demonstrate the differences - but the wood on either side of the blade on the cheaper tool is exaggerated in the sketch when compared to what is actually on the tool.  If you watch the whole video, his opinion keeps going DOWN concerning the cheaper tool due to a couple of things:  1.)  the possible gap (to accommodate different stock thicknesses) is WAY less on the cheaper one.  2.) even though the end knob looks better than the metal thumbscrew of the Tandy, there is almost NO adjustment on the cheaper one.  3.) the blades on the cheaper one are non-standard, with no indication of haw to get replacements (although they can doubtlessly be honed as needed) 4.)  He doesn't like the 'feel' and lighter weight of the cheaper one - probably like comparing hickory with something more akin to basswood.  His conclusion is that the Tandy is superior.  5.)  The cheaper blade sticks out a lot both top and bottom ... and this seems dangerous - at least a slip could cause a nasty cut ... whereas the Tandy blade is entirely covered by the reinforcing plates.  6.)  the end screws are easily adjusted with a screw driver on the Tandy, compared to the the need of a hex key (not included0 for the cheaper tool.

 

  At the end of the video, the guy says he wants to send the cheaper one back.

 

  Now I realize that the application at hand is to trim the width of relative thin stock used for planking ... so having a more limited thickness capability on the cheaper tool would not be a disadvantage compared to a user who wants to cut thicker leather.

 

  I also note that there will be far less force to trim planking stock than to cut thick leather, so the wood in question on the tool would not be likely to break.  The available wood on my own stript-easer is even LESS, but there has never been breakage.  I also note that there are metal re-enforcing plates top and bottom on the Tandy tool, that is adjusted, make breakage unlikely.  Once can just as easily glue  reinforcement wood to the leading edge of the Tandy jig if one has any doubt.

 

  The Tandy blades have available replacements (if one does not want to hone occasionally), and they are not as wide as the cheaper ones.  This will permit the mounting of the Tandy blade at an angle (before tightening), which I've always found to be an advantage.  Since the application at hand is for thinner stock, so it is unlikely that blade breakage will be a problem.  After all, the guy in the video was running LOTs of 1/4" belt leather (for commercial purposes) through the Tandy tool.  If the greater width of the cheaper blade would hold up better for thick stock, the inability of getting a thicker gap between the horizontal pieces effectively nullify any advantage in maximum blade strength.

 

  As for me,  I'm going to try the Tandy.  But each individual should make a choice based on their own tastes and preferences.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=reviews+of+craftool+strap+cutter&rlz=1C5MACD_enUS1049US1049&oq=reviews+of+craftool+starp&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j33i10i160l2j33i299j33i671.11968j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:484cd395,vid:y4ATkSRR-Nw,st:0

Thanks for your detailed explanation! I will look into it  

[Gregory]

I don’t have an illustration handy, but consider clamping (really tight) between a couple of pieces of wood or aluminum, exposing the area to be trimmed, and trim away.

[Ronald-V]

29 minutes ago, Gregory said:

I don’t have an illustration handy, but consider clamping (really tight) between a couple of pieces of wood or aluminum, exposing the area to be trimmed, and trim away.

Yes I did that to make some top and butt planking, that is also an option...thanks for the tip!  

Edited August 27 by Ronald-V

[Gregory]

Don't do all your tapering in the next few hours.  I want to show you a jig that might help with consistency. 

[Ronald-V]

29 minutes ago, Gregory said:

Don't do all your tapering in the next few hours.  I want to show you a jig that might help with consistency. 

Lol...i'm not that fast😆

[Gregory]

This is something I put together quickly to demonstrate, so it could be refined somewhat.

 

I have this real hard melame/mdf stuff, but I'm thinking aluminum might be better.

I glued ( just tacked at each end with CA, so it could be easily removed later ) a strip the same thickness and length as my target,  to the MDF. The little vertical piece acts as a stopper.

Note one end is 5mm from the edge of the MDF.  The other end is 4mm.  At this point you could probably just lay your strip to be tapered against the template above and trim with Xacto blade or scalpel and follow with a little sanding .

 

I took another option and clamped the smaller piece of MDF onto the template and trimmed from there.  The target still has a tendency to move around, so you have to make sure it stays flat against the jig.

Make sure the business side of the two MDF  pieces are flush.

I also thought I might screw the jig together for a tighter fit.

After the blade, I did a little sanding.

 

4mm On one end.

 

 

5 On the other.

 

Let me know if I can explain any better.

[Ronald-V]

 

 

6 hours ago, Gregory said:

This is something I put together quickly to demonstrate, so it could be refined somewhat.

 

I have this real hard melame/mdf stuff, but I'm thinking aluminum might be better.

I glued ( just tacked at each end with CA, so it could be easily removed later ) a strip the same thickness and length as my target,  to the MDF. The little vertical piece acts as a stopper.

Note one end is 5mm from the edge of the MDF.  The other end is 4mm.  At this point you could probably just lay your strip to be tapered against the template above and trim with Xacto blade or scalpel and follow with a little sanding .

 

I took another option and clamped the smaller piece of MDF onto the template and trimmed from there.  The target still has a tendency to move around, so you have to make sure it stays flat against the jig.

Make sure the business side of the two MDF  pieces are flush.

I also thought I might screw the jig together for a tighter fit.

After the blade, I did a little sanding.

 

4mm On one end.

 

 

5 On the other.

 

Let me know if I can explain any better.

I must say, thank you for your efforts. Nice of you that you put this together just for demonstration purposes  👏

 

Now it's pretty clear and helpful! When you first told me I thought it would look different, but this does seem like a better and more solid approach.

I'll definitely try it! It's also a quick and easy way to make.

I could maybe counteract the back and forth movement by making the stops 0.1 or 0.2 lower than the target wood. So that the target wood is clamped more firmly?

Edited August 28 by Ronald-V

[Ronald-V]

On 8/28/2024 at 2:41 AM, Gregory said:

This is something I put together quickly to demonstrate, so it could be refined somewhat.

 

I have this real hard melame/mdf stuff, but I'm thinking aluminum might be better.

I glued ( just tacked at each end with CA, so it could be easily removed later ) a strip the same thickness and length as my target,  to the MDF. The little vertical piece acts as a stopper.

Note one end is 5mm from the edge of the MDF.  The other end is 4mm.  At this point you could probably just lay your strip to be tapered against the template above and trim with Xacto blade or scalpel and follow with a little sanding .

 

I took another option and clamped the smaller piece of MDF onto the template and trimmed from there.  The target still has a tendency to move around, so you have to make sure it stays flat against the jig.

Make sure the business side of the two MDF  pieces are flush.

I also thought I might screw the jig together for a tighter fit.

After the blade, I did a little sanding.

 

4mm On one end.

 

 

5 On the other.

 

Let me know if I can explain any better.

 

It works quite well...experimented now with some planks and they stay the same dimensions. 

I used aluminum as a template with stops that are 0.2mm thinner than the deck planks. And I clamp the plates between the vice.

That works accurately. I just have to be careful not to go too far, because the aluminum is no match for my woodplane and sanding stick  

 

I do think Johnny's solution was also a good one, but Gregory's was a bit cheaper to realize. (I had the aluminium profile lying around.) So thank you both!

 

[Gregory]

I'm glad I was able to help. 

 

I really like your refinements. 

I think this method could be adapted for tapering spars and masts.

I must confess, I use a laser cutter for most of my tapering. 

Edited August 30 by Gregory

[Ronald-V]

1 hour ago, Gregory said:

I'm glad I was able to help. 

 

I really like your refinements. 

I think this method could be adapted for tapering spars and masts.

I must confess, I use a laser cutter for most of my tapering. 

haha okay!...well one day maybe I'll have the funds and space 😄

Edited August 30 by Ronald-V