Painting (and Staining) Basswood and Dealing with "Fuzz"

[Desertanimal]

The only real way to find what looks good is to do some tests. In full size woodworking we’ll always have tests with and without sealer, toner, stain etc. all with various topcoats. If that’s what we’re trying. Though topcoats don’t change much. 

A golden shellac might look nice. Could give a warm color like wipe on poly can do. 
Chris

[palmerit]

On 6/11/2025 at 7:45 PM, Desertanimal said:

The only real way to find what looks good is to do some tests.

Yeah, that's what I've usually done. I guess I'm wondering what other options there might be that I can test. 

 

I saw another post looking at different shellac options, some of which included Bitumen of Judea (which is almost impossible to find online). That seems to be another way to darken shellac. Don't know if anyone has used it. hartem.com sells some with a hefty shipping cost.

 

[Loracs]

I looked at my order history at Am@zon, where I got it a year ago.  Unfortunately, it indeed says "currently unavailable".   It recommends the following as alternative.  I don't know if it is the same... but supplied by the same provider: Terrachrom.  Maybe there an issue in using the term "Bitumen of Judea".  Maybe a quick email to them could clarify the issue.

 

Amazon.com: terrachrom Black Iron Oxide Mineral Pigment -Pigments for Artistic and Decorative Painting, Concrete, Clay, Lime, Plaster, Masonry and Paint Products (150 ML | 5 OZ)

Edited June 13 by Loracs

[Desertanimal]

Personally I wouldn’t get involved with mixing pigments. That can be a rabbit hole of epic proportions. “ Let’s add a little of this, oh too much. Let’s add this to tone down that color….” Then you make mud. Been there. 
Unless you are trying to match a specific historical color for accuracy and such, I would think you can find a consumer product that will meet your expectations. 
Danish oils have a myriad of colors. You could get adhesion problems later if you need to glue something that’s been oiled. 
Shellac is tried and true. There are shades and it’s compatible with anything and everything. You can top coat it, leave it. Buff it to a shine, steel wool it to a satin finish on and on and on. 
How dark are you trying to go? I need to go read the original question. Hahaha 

ok did that…

You can shellac, light sand to remove fuzz then paint. Sanding sealer is a weird product. It’s sort of s made up name.  As you’ve found it’s hard to pin down. Usually it is just a lacquer spray that can then be sanded and topcoat applied. (Just like if you buy simply lacquer spray!) You can paint over either one. Sanding sealer is usually a spray. Shellac is a better choice in my opinion. 

 

Chris

Edited June 13 by Desertanimal

[palmerit]

My understanding - which is incomplete - is that you can glue (wood glue) to wood that has been treated with shellac. I know you can't glue (wood glue) to wood that has been painted (and while you could presumably use CA glue on something that has been painted, my understanding is that you'd be gluing to the paint only). I don't know what the restrictions are on gluing to wood that has been treated with Danish oil or Tung oil.

[Capt. Kelso]

Lots of very useful suggestions. No right or wrong answers, my only suggestion would be to do a number of test samples on scarp wood. I like to make a piece of decking or use some scrap scribed decking to test various finishes. I found just using a small piece of wood wasn't always that representative, a large section gives a better reference.

 

Also, do you apply an overall spray finish to your completed model, Dullcote or matt spray? If so, this could obviously impact your deck finish.

[palmerit]

So I'm continuing to try to understand shellac, staining, and painting. On one of my current models (Chesapeake Bay Crabbing Skiff), I'm planning to use shellac on the interior (it has open interior), trying out a few options on scrap wood.

 

When the interior is done should I apply (1) wipe-on-poly (WOP) or (2) airbrush on Vallejo acrylic matte varnish or (3) Neither? What are the advantages or disadvantages of each - do I need either?

[CPDDET]

I'm no expert but I don't beleive you need any finish over shellac. I'll be interested in following any further answers. 

I'm currently in the process of trying to make cherry wood look more like mahogany using tinted clear shellac. 

[SiriusVoyager]

On 8/26/2025 at 9:44 AM, palmerit said:

So I'm continuing to try to understand shellac, staining, and painting. On one of my current models (Chesapeake Bay Crabbing Skiff), I'm planning to use shellac on the interior (it has open interior), trying out a few options on scrap wood.

 

When the interior is done should I apply (1) wipe-on-poly (WOP) or (2) airbrush on Vallejo acrylic matte varnish or (3) Neither? What are the advantages or disadvantages of each - do I need either?

 

 

My experience with shellac is that it can be a stand alone varnish applied after any staining and painting.  It will add a bit of a sheen and can be polished with ultra fine steel wool (though small pieces of the steel wool will eventually rust in the shellac) or with very fine sand paper.  It does make a very hard and smooth coating over whatever it is applied to.  Being alcohol based and natural, I appreciate that I can use it in my house without having to worry about fumes.