Loracs
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Everything posted by Loracs
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Sails: I wanted to keep the sails flexible... so no dipping in diluted glue. A 2-3 mm border was glued around to reenforce them at the edge. The "cringles" were a pain to do as well as sizing them.
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The mats are shaped and blocks are nearly all attaches. That's already a lot of slip-knots and I'm afraid it's only the beginning. Repetition is part of the game.
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A few close-up pictures to show some of the details.
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Hello, thanks all... indeed, the natural color was my go. I could not bring myself painting the hull or the mats. The reason for the inlays. It adds a little "design/oomph" while still be wood. Not quite historic though, but a display piece.
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Look nice with the shadow.
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Mats: A lot of shaping but everything fits well. Nothing has been glued so far. Slow progress but still moving along. Rigging next.
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Nice painting... Black/dark brown is hard to get right. Same for gold.
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All Aboard!
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thank you @Knocklouder, appreciate. It took me 3 weeks to get the rigging blocks together. At 2.5mm, I had to wear a magnification glass... but only couple hours a day before getting a headache. Not getting any younger.
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Rigged Cannon: I must say that this took me a while. They are so small.... not perfect but a step up for me since it is my first time. I like Master Korabel blocks a lot, but they are so hard to find in any amount. Glue is still fresh... it will be mostly gone when fully dry. I used Fabric glue for the ropes.
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Cannon rigging at various stages. It takes patience. Two ropes, one to anchor the cannon to the ship (using 0.75mm rope) and the others to handle the cannon back and forth (0.25mm rope with blocks). Looking forward to having this step done. I'm running out of 2.5mm blocks so I may not do the one at the back.
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Taking care of the crew: I wanted to add before rigging. It may be difficult to place later. I have not painted miniatures in 40 years... so it was time for supplies. I'm doing my own paint, since you can basically tailor it to what you need, either airbrush (new to me), contrast, washes, opaque or translucent paint of pretty much any color with CMYK primary. I like ink because they are pigment dense so when you start mixing for colors, it does not get diluted much. First time trying Zenital base coat (highlights and shadows) on such a small model... let's see later how it turns out with colors. Not great quality miniatures... but hey! I bought them to give a sense of scale (they are 1:64 too), and since I have it at hand, why not use them!
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Yawl 22 ft completed...
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22 ft Yawl (Vanguard Models): I'm adding a 22ft Yawl and 18ft Cutter (later) to the Revenge Build. Both are made by Vanguard Models and of excellent quality and design. Since we don't see those often, I'm adding pictures below. The model has matte clear coat only (except at the bottom of the yawl because it has photo-etch parts - dark brown). Wood choice (pearwood and something else) is excellent and the laser burn is very minimal. Overall, a wonderful small kit, worth every single pennies. Note: A few photo-etch accessories still need to be added.
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Thank you for the picture and recipe. This is a great way to display the ship. Something I will strongly consider doing too ;_)
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HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - FINISHED - scale 1:56
Loracs replied to matiz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Just.... WOW. I wish I had a third of your skill and knowledge. This is very impressive build... something to be very proud. -
@TurkSailor I look a long time for a convenient building slip... The one I like was out of order and manufacturer did not even reply about possible availability in the future. Link here: SO... I build a working table. Not quite a slip to guide you in the build but mostly to hold the ship in place. It was a lot of work to make and rather expensive. I choose to do it for fun (I wanted a woodworking project to spend time on). At the end NOT a slip... but a close second/third. Beside that... nothing else. You can get by with a lot cheaper alternative since it just holds the ship on place, nothing more. Lastly, it is heavy, very heavy. So, I place the table on a large Lazy Susan to rotate it. Here the link for the table:
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@Baker a very good point... 🚯
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Another Question on RATLINES: I often see the cross section (horizontal segments) in light colored rope rather than dark like the vertical section. Is it a preference from the builder (for contrast) or those were never coated with Tar back then? Same for the rope between the two deadeyes... always light colored or they were coated with tar usually?
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Question: Likely one of many as I started thinking/working on rigging the ship. I'm reading that the fore-most shroud on the fore and main mast are typically served the whole length of the rope while the others only at the portion around the mats... why only the first? there must be a practical and/or functional reason it was done that way.
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Deadeyes racks and gunport doors installed to the ship. This is no small task... amazing the number of little parts... all having to be fixed with nails. The good news, it is done and no major break (couple of minor ones though). Mark, drill and push in... all the while holding my breath that nothing fall apart. And those little corner parts on top of the racks!! each need to be adjusted to fit, what a pain. With this done, this officially start the rigging segment of the build, starting with the deck cannons.
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Thanks for the review. Those are indeed really nice.
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@Knocklouder thank you ;_)
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Triangular deadeye platforms are ready to be installed. A little messy with the label... but they will go away.
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Eyebolts, Racks and Cleats: Various small parts are installed on the ship. Those are quite a challenge. Each is re-enforced with nails for stability. A comment on Bibetou: I seriously hate this wood. It is far too fragile to be used as construction material. So far each piece has been strengthened by planking it with walnut strips... it is almost a requirement.
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