HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Nick 843 - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Nick 843]

8 hours ago, barnacle Chris said:

and will fill with dry wall joint compound

That's interesting, I'm going to think about that.  It would certainly sand easier than my sawdust/glue mixture.  I've found, and should have realized before, that it dries hard as a rock and is hard to sand, so I'd already been thinking about a substitute.

Nick

And thanks.

Edited October 21 by Nick 843
added text

[palmerit]

A lot of people use bondo (when painted over). It dries hard but is  easy to sand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007ZG9TO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

For things I’m painting over I use Elmer’s wood filler. Also hard and fairly easy to sand. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQTXQK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I use the sawdust and glue when it’s something that will not be painted over. 

 

I think wall joint compound would be too brittle. 
 

[Nick 843]

I opted for wood filler.  The sanding is easy, and it's no fuss if I fill a spot/area with too much filler.

 

This is after round 2;  I want to get it as smooth/finished as possible before I do the first primer coat.  Just about all of the gaps are now filled and there's more filler to come off what shows in the pics.  But there will be spots/areas that will pop as needing attention when I put the primer coat on.  I may get to a primer coat by tomorrow afternoon.  Looking forward to that.

 

I'm using gloves now.

 

BTW I'm toying with the idea of using stain instead of paint so that I get some show-through of planks.  I was thinking I might try an out-of-way test patch.  Is there any reason I shouldn't use stain?

 

Cheers/Nick

Edited October 22 by Nick 843
added text

[Ronald-V]

That looks nice and smooth!

[Nick 843]

Thanks both.  But I've just realized that those pics show it way better than it is in reality because of the light I put on it.  I'd aimed a light directly at it from model-level; amazing what light will do; I think it's the first time I've paid attention to the quality of any photograph LOL.

 

I realized it this morning when I shifted the light to a different position and it shadowed some of the remaining gaps/unevenness etc.

 

These show it more accurately I think.

 

Nick

[Nick 843]

A light coat of primer on now.  Some attention needed in various areas.

 

Nice to lay down some paint finally.

 

Nick

[barnacle Chris]

Nice work,  personally I like the effect of seeing a hint of the run off the planks below the anti foul coating.  It lets the viewer know this is a planked hull.

[Nick 843]

Thanks Chris.

I'm hoping I can lay down the paint thinly enough that at least some of that detail will show through.

I should be spraying some final primer on reworked areas today and maybe even a first layer of paint.

Nick

[Nick 843]

Painted.  Some own questioning going on as to whether or not I should rework any of it, but it's growing on me as probably done.

 

There's some variance in the coverage, and I'll appreciate any comments as I mull it over for the next day or so, but I'm tending to the idea that it's not worth remedial work.  And overall hafta say I like it.  One thing that worked out well was the masking which gave me a clean line.

 

I am going to re-do the stem; I guess I overlooked filling those gap lines.

 

Nick

Edited Sunday at 09:32 PM by Nick 843
added text

[barnacle Chris]

Awesome!! Love the nice clean look. Your getting  me motivated to finish the final planking on mine.

[Nick 843]

Thanks Chris.

[Geordie Tyne]

That hull painting is looking really nice. Great work.

[Nick 843]

Thanks Geordie.

Nick

[Nick 843]

Darned if I can figure out the PE parts placement for the stem/rudder hinge parts.  Others haven't mentioned it, I looked at 3 or 4 other build logs, and they obviously figured it out, so clearly I'm an idiot.  So if anyone can help this idiot, much appreciated.

 

The instructions pic below shows portside only.  But even assuming the numbers match for starboard side, there's e.g. no PE22a and b.

 

The PE fret below as well, also my lousy sketch of the parts portside per the instructions, along with my guesses so far what matches what starboard side.

 

If anyone can straighten me out on this, much appreciated.

 

Nick

[palmerit]

I clearly figured it out but I honestly don't remember what I did. I'd just do what you've shown and try to make sure each place has a home that fits and looks like the photos. I probably just tried to lay them out in a way that looked like the photo in the instructions.

[palmerit]

Are you painting these PE parts of keeping them brass (or using brass black)? I ask because I first tried to use Vallejo airbrush primer and Vallejo airbrush paint and the paint just peeled off. I found that using a Tamiya surface primer worked fairly well - certainly better than the Vallejo airbrush primer. I just use the Tamiya in a shake can.

 

I struggled using CA with the PE parts. I tried using a thick-ish CA, which was a mistake. A thin CA might work better, but it's a struggle to get these tiny positions in place before the CA glue dries. Another possibility is to use a Tamiya Flat Clear paint. The paint is clear and it acts like a glue. 

[Nightdive]

It took me an embarrassingly long time to figure it out myself. I too scoured other build logs, but since there was no mention of it, I assumed my PE sheet had a printing error that others didn’t. Should have mentioned about it in my log though. 

 

This is how I did it, not sure if 100% correct:

 

Sternpost: PE-26, PE-24, PE-22
Rudder: PE-25, PE-23, PE-21

 

 

Edited 13 hours ago by Nightdive

[Nick 843]

Many thanks both of you.  I'll follow Nightdive's parts list; looks good on his photo.

 

Palmerit: I was just going to paint these sternpost/rudder parts white as per the instructions and Nightdive's pic, and keep in brass for the rest.  On the "rest", i.e. the depth markings and the horseshoes, I'm not sure if I'll try blacking them, or just paint.  I've cleaned them first with alcohol; I wonder if that might make a difference with adhesion.  I might experiment (ref Palmerit with primer/paint/clear; likewise prefer Tamiya to Vallejo) with dummy pieces from the fret and some pear leftovers.

 

I also need to think/experiment about the glue.  I was using medium CA for the second planking, which worked great.  But I can see your point that it could be too thick for these parts.  I might experiment with Tamiya extra-thin also.

 

Thanks again.

 

Nick

Edited 12 hours ago by Nick 843
added text

[palmerit]

Medium CA is definitely too thick for thin surface parts like this. This glue will likely seep out from the sides. And might glue faster than you have time to position. You definitely want a descent set of tweezers and practice a bit without any glue. 

It’s especially going to seep because the rudder pieces are filled with holes. 

 

Thicker CA can work for planking because when you push down it’s less likely the glue will seep all the way to the outside of the planking because the planks are thick by comparison to the PE parts. 
 

Maybe try painting some scrap PE pieces to see what works. You could also try gluing the painted scrap PE to a piece of scrap wood. Always better to experiment before trying on the model. 

[palmerit]

This is a good video on prepping and painting PE parts:

 

[Nick 843]

@Palmerit. Many thanks for your notes.  That video helps a lot.

Nick

[LoydB]

Jeweler's wax pencils are my goto for placing photoetch. After one too many cases of tweezers launching PE pieces into the void, this is all I use anymore.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Rhinestone-Rhinestones-Tweezers-sharpener-Triangular/dp/B093PZ4NJ4/