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Posted (edited)

I am hoping to start a disscussion on ways of building convincing working light types for larger scale models.
I want to start with Flourescent tubes at 1/35, has anyone got any suggestions or experiance with making such thing?
To be more specific is their a way to have a long skinny lightsource like a tube?  or would it just have to be faked with the usual diodes?.
Something along these lines

lights.thumb.jpg.fd72bc2e58c13a516e3c39a265d70fda.jpg

Edited by Richard Dunn
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Richard,

 

I have used optical fibres to light the interior of my 1805 schooner model in 1/64. The period and scale are quite different but optical fibres have properties that are useful or a pain, depending on what you are trying to achieve. One is that they leak light if you bend them too much so they have to be routed carefully. A second is that if you roughen the surface the light also leaks out. This might be what you need to simulate your fluorescent tubes. 

fibresaftlit.thumb.jpg.adf26e044feb1236149e34ef91c583de.jpg

 

I have used 1mm diameter plastic fibre and arrange seven fibres in a hex pattern to face a 3mm diameter LED. The fibres enter the model through brass tube stands (3mm internal diameter) so they are invisible. This also leaves electronics and solder joints outside the model so they remain accessible. 

 

The fibres are readily available on Ebay and cheap so a bit of experimenting could give you a solution. 

 

George

 

George Bandurek

Near the coast in Sussex, England

 

Current build: HMS Whiting (Caldercraft Ballahoo with enhancements)

 

Previous builds: Cutter Sherbourne (Caldercraft) and many non-ship models

 

Posted
5 hours ago, georgeband said:

A second is that if you roughen the surface the light also leaks out.

If I was to roughen 25mm of tube would it fully illuminate like a tube light? or would it just be a dimmer light with most being at the end?

Posted

Richard,

 

How much light leaks out of the sides and how much continues to the end? I think that experiments will be the only way to find out. It's not the touchable surface that needs to be rough but the boundary between the fibre core and the clear, cladding layer. The cladding is thin so a bit of sanding should reach through to the core and cause the light to leak out. You might only need to sand on the visible side face of the fibre and leave the face that looks to the ceiling. 

 

There is a possibility that you could have a sequence of bright sections (rough surface) linked by dark sections (smooth surface) on one fibre to simulate fluorescent tubes in a long row. Painting the fibres would hide the 'dark' sections and shouldn't affect optical performance. 

 

I have had a quick look on Ebay and searched for '1mm plastic optical fiber' which brings up lots of suppliers. Some of them offer 'side glow' fibre but I do not have experience of them. 

 

George

George Bandurek

Near the coast in Sussex, England

 

Current build: HMS Whiting (Caldercraft Ballahoo with enhancements)

 

Previous builds: Cutter Sherbourne (Caldercraft) and many non-ship models

 

Posted

If the fiber optic isn't bright enough you could buy some small surface mount LEDs. Glue them on a thin wood strip (paper or any non-conductor) end to end, cathode to anode. Then add a drop of solder at the ends to connect them. Do it quickly and the wood/paper won't scorch too much.

 

LEDs have a certain voltage drop each at the design operating current. Just divide your power supply voltage by the LED voltage drop to get how many LEDs you should put in series in a single circuit. Add a current limiting resistor somewhere it the circuit between the LED strip and the power supply. You can experiment to control the brightness (and the amount of heat generated) by varying the series resistor.

 

At larger scales you can glue a thin white translucent plastic strip over the LEDs to diffuse the light and complete the "fluorescent" lighting fixture.

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

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