HMS Terror by Greg Davis - OcCre - 1:75 scale

[Greg Davis]

Looking for admission to the HMS Terror Club!

 

Over the years, I have collected numerous kits and monographs of ships. I have two (adult) children and I wanted to build a ship for each that they had picked out. A few years ago my son chose the Lumberyard / Harold Hahn Rattlesnake model and hasn't waivered. More recently, my daughter finally made her pick: HMS Terror from the OcCre kit. 

 

I've decided to start the Terror project for my daughter now because she is interested in essentially an out-of-the-box version (that I can fit in my modeling space along with other projects); whereas my son is super detailed oriented (don't know where that came from ) and wants all the bells and whistles on Rattlesnake. Also, this will be very much a start and stop build as I have several other modeling projects going on at the same time - Phantom, BR-18 Locomotive, La Couronne, and of highest priority L' Invention - but this is a mode I like to be in more so than building one at a time.

 

I've read as many of the HMS Terror build logs as I could find on MSW - so much nice work! I have my copy of Betts' HMS Terror book. I have the kit. Time to set the associated expectations and putting some pieces together.

Here's what I'm looking to do:

 

Simply build a nice / clean representation of HMS Terror while minimizing the number of upgrades / customizations that can / could / have been done been done by other modelers.

 

This is not to say, some deviations from the kit will not be taken. For example, I do plan on reducing the plank width in order to have deck planking closer to Betts' plan; will likely add the water closets that are aft on the deck; and include masts that are closer to scale. I've been asked to paint the hull, so I won't be going 'all in' on the hull planking, but I will be taking a look at the hull's envelope. Other decisions will be made along the way. 

 

I feel really lucky to have the benefit of seeing what others have been able to do with this model - I hope I can do it justice as well!

 

Greg 

 

[Greg Davis]

Getting right to it tonight. First numbered the bulkheads and other parts that will form the hull's foundation so they get installed in the correct locations:

After releasing the bulkheads, I slipped each onto their corresponding slot on the false keel. A few of the bulkheads did not seat down all the way needed, but were close. A couple of swipes with a file made corrections to achieve a good fit.

 

Due to the kit design, the false keel / bulkhead structure cannot be placed in a standard keel holder. I was pleased that the false keel was quite flat / essentially free of any warpage. At this point, the rather vague written instructions state that 'It is important to make sure that the frames are completely perpendicular to the false keel, in order to ensure that the decks fit correctly.  To help me get the frames / bulkheads into the correct positions I placed the subdeck sheet over all the bulkheads. Due to kit design, this will line the bulkheads up nicely as the subdeck is notched for each of the bulkheads. I will also not that the bulkhead extensions matched up perfectly with the subdeck notches. Rubber bands were then used to keep everything together before applying any adhesive.

At this point, it's pretty easy to see the not quite right hull envelope that has been noted by many builders of this kit.

 

This will probably be as far as I go today as I ponder the next steps.

[Knocklouder]

Good luck on your journey, 

Bob M.

[Greg Davis]

Today I took the deck back off and sanded the correct bevels onto the top of the bulkheads so that the subdeck would fit nicely. A flexible sanding stick works well for this process. When doing this work, I keep on reminding myself that the process needs to be carried out completely across the top of bulkhead; i.e., not just along the junction of the bulkheads and the false keel in order to preserve the deck camber.

The fit of the subdeck was checked and when satisfied, I clamped the subdeck to the false keel / bulkhead structure and then brushed a reasonable amount of glue into all of the joints. 

 

This is out of order from the instructions. The instructions suggest planking the deck and then installing the subdeck / deck structure. I chose to attach the subdeck now when it was more flexible and could be used for the bulkhead alignment process. Additionally, if it were the case that any of the bulkhead extensions passed above the subdeck, they could be sanded down prior to the deck installation.

While it cannot be seen in this picture, I did mark the centerline of the deck before attaching the subdeck.

 

Additionally, I did consult Betts' text with respect to the upper deck plan to determine the correct width for the center / straight deck planking region. Measuring the plan midship, it appears that the ratio of straight and herring bone patterns is approximately 6:7:6. The width of the subdeck at this point is 4"; so on the model the center deck planking region should be close to 1.5" - this is the width of the section I have marked out. While I'll come back to this later in the build, the deck plan indicates 11 strakes of deck planks in the center section and the model's instructions show 6. As a straightforward modification, I will use 11 strakes of narrower planking here; similarly, I will be using (more) correctly scaled planking in the herring bone regions.

[Greg Davis]

Starting to fill space between bulkheads:

Even though this is a double planked model I like the idea of filling space between the bulkheads. I find that I can do a better job fairing the hull if it is 'solid' as opposed to making a judgement from several bulkheads. From my experiences, using filler wood that is similar in hardness and sanding attributes to the bulkheads is advantageous. For example, I once used balsa as a filler and it softer than the bulkheads so when sanded it was easy to make valleys between the bulkheads (which then needed filler, etc.). Here the bulkheads are a fairly soft plywood. While this wasn't planned; a couple of weeks ago I laid plywood underlayment for a new vinyl plank floor in our family room and it turns out that the 5mm plywood I had used is quite similar in hardness to the plywood in this OcCre kit. Hence an in-house supply was readily available for this task. I ripped a bunch of 3/4" wide material and then am cutting it to fit between consecutive bulkheads. Of course the bulkheads are not spaced evenly, so it is best to cut for one space at a time. In each space material is stacked up starting at the subdeck and another stack comes off the false keel. When the two stacks start to overlap one stack is left and the other continues to be built up until the desired space is filled. 

[clearway]

Welcome to the Terror club- the ply infill method might work to correct the "bulge" that is present on the finished hull. I stuck with the kit planking on my Terror but used closer to scale planking on my Erebus deck.

 

Keith

[Greg Davis]

1 hour ago, clearway said:

Welcome to the Terror club- the ply infill method might work to correct the "bulge" that is present on the finished hull. I stuck with the kit planking on my Terror but used closer to scale planking on my Erebus deck.

 

Keith

Keith -

 

Thanks for looking in and I hope that you can continue to do so periodically! I have read your Terror log more times than I'd like to admit - a wonderful build and a superb information resource . Because of you and others, I feel that I will have lighter seas to navigate with this project. I feel that turning this into a solid hull is my best chance for getting a better feel for the hull's shape prior to planking - but we shall see if this is indeed a help or just a lot of sawdust.

 

All the best,

 

Greg

[clearway]

you are welcome Greg- to be honest i am coming across more info while building my Erebus!

 

Keith

[Greg Davis]

7 hours ago, clearway said:

you are welcome Greg- to be honest i am coming across more info while building my Erebus!

 

Keith

Following your Erebus build now so that I can see what you have learned / are changing since your Terror!

[Greg Davis]

After an inspection, the local master shipwright is at high risk of losing his job. Currently he is equal parts mad, sad, and embarrassed. After reasonable preparation, apparently work proceeded without further quality control and this has resulted in a great loss and setback to the shipyard.

 

While the underside seemed OK (but looked a bit like a cargo ship):

Upper views exposed an issue:

Was it the camera angle? Nope, carelessness was victorious - the structure had a Terror-ible twist. Further inspection noted that the structure was solid as a rock and had no chance of disassembly. Unceremoniously the hull has been scuttled.

 

In the mist of the dilemma, the governing board considered options going forward: quit the project (not acceptable); use the plans from Betts' text / scratch build the ship (more work than desired at this time); order replacement - ding, ding the winner.

 

So now the Terror building ways stay empty until new materials arrive and the crew can start again. Hopefully it will not be too long before they are back to work.