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  1. Post 7 Upper bulkhead shear planks and rails part 1 It is time to rectify the bulwarks and see that what we end up with is close enough to show the real thing. I started off by reading the chapters on the related items. In summary let’s look at two sketches Ap-40 This page, from Crothers’s book, shows the midsection of the hull. What I am after is the relationship on the side from waterline to monkey rail. By taking measurements from the drawing and scaling them slightly to fit the model, we find the issue I have mentioned of the deck being a little high. Not enough at say 1/16” to worry about. Ap 41 This view is the cropped bulwark for my planning. Here we see that above the pin rail there is an inner plank over the top of the stanchions [ bulwark clamp in nomenclature]. This made my use of a solid horizontal strip in this section show both dimensional separation of the pin rails and provide more solidity to the construction of the model. My next activity will be to build up the monkey rail. As per Crothers index of ships, we are trying to get to 4’-6”or 9/16” to copy information on Alna I will get to ½” due to the slightly high deck to focsle deck, so that is close enough for me especially as the dimension is a bit of conjecture. Ap-42 the shear plank is an extension of the main deck elevation and should thus be the ½ inch below the top of the top rail. In this photo we see the remnant of the old shear plank first too wide at 1/8” and too low. I have since carved it off and shall install a proper 1/16 strip at the right height. This also reinforces the previous decision to remove and replace the channels that were at the same level as this rail. Ap-43 Here we have an issue. This is the soaked future monkey rail stanchion that I set at the plank shear elevation to check out the problem of the too rounded stern. If I had cut out one inch fore and aft and ½ down, replaced it with a block and carved the stern, I could have earned a few more broom handles but ended up with a more proper termination of the shear plank. I will solve this one later Ap-44 here we see the first of three rings of styrene 30x30 to form the extreme curved water way. This is a short cut for this type model where everything is painted out. I would other wise have cut out the waterway from wider strips. I hope I am forgiven. Ap-45 I glue a little bit then bend a little more and work around the waterway. The first outer one is hard, and the inner ones are easier. At the same time, we have the wet future monkey rail stanchion bending to conform to the stern. Ap-46 here we are on the focsle deck. There is a sharp bend at the bow. We also have the monkey rail stanchion waiting for the stern to take shape. Ap-47 Here we continue by cutting to rough length, presoaking the bow section of the monkey rail stanchion, and bending them to conform. Ap-48 Just for fun, I have some progress on the deck houses, and it is fun to see how were coming along. Ap 49 Here we are gluing the first aft section of the monkey rail stanchion. I am using scrap shims to hold it to the center of the main rail, the bow or stern water way. We are away for a while and spring is coming, I just want to get the bulwarks and main houses done before the slow down for summer. I am still working on the other projects with summer dead lines. this model is for next summer Cheers Jon
  2. Keith It is such a joy to sit down with a cup of coffee and read the next few pages of your build. I just learned all about options to finish wood at this scale , to turn portholes and to punch acrylic so they look real. This last image showing the hull should make the team rooting for paint pause.....if only briefly. It is gorgeous. I can't wait to find out what you decide to do. Jon
  3. Mark Thankyou for the tip. I typed in U S Constitution in dry dock and got dozens of photos. They show several variations. What is interesting is they are the opposite of my results. The inside curve near the stern had large areas where the copper color stayed. Perhaps movement of water. On the other hand, the U S Constitution does not move very much so what that might mean is out there. The process of seeing them makes me feel better. To the real modeler I may have strayed into folk-art, but I am ok with that. Cheers Jon
  4. Kieth there are two types ...one is two part and very hard etc and the second that I love, is one part and forgiving. It is called Glazing Putty Bondo...Glazing & spot putty it is red cheers
  5. Post 6 Copper Hull experiment…the patina part 2 I think I ‘m going to proceed. I can always come back and change. Here is my rationalization. Ap-33 I turned her around and tried the other side. This image shows we are on side two with coat two ready for treatment. Ap-34 here we have the same issue as the other side. I only did two coats so three coats as an issue is eliminated. I was very careful on application, and the bare spots still came up. They are consistent on the roundest part. Before removing the masking tape, I did a second application. There is improvement but some green is getting too green. Ap-35 another issue is which black to use. I started with this coat as an experiment. It needs another cycle of filler sanding and another coat anyway. This trial is the ink black that is so perfect for flat iron work. It is flat, I mean really flat. The debate is ..was paint in 1853 ink black or oil and other pigment. Should one use flat or satin. I just don’t know the evolution of paint. If tar it is a bit shinny and I like to use ebony stain for that of ratline slats and things. All the books say is black. I will do each side different and then decide. As to the look …….I mean when the model will be displayed how does this patina and paint look… Ap36…This image fairly shows it will be low and not under bright light on the lower hull. As to the message…. I am trying to depict what things were, how they worked and focus more on that. I am not the fine workmen to focus on the beauty of the wood or the skill in finish and carving and the like. Ap37 a glance of the hull at eye level as one walks by… I want one to look at the model and sure like what they see, but also understand from the glance what things are made of. That bottom says I AM MADE OF COPPER AND I TURNED MOSTLY GREEN. The green paint did not. Ap 38… I have read the copper plates under water did not change to all the same green. The copper near the water line that saw air was the greenest, some boats saw more time in dry dock, Some areas where fast water kept the copper hue longer[ maybe??]. All these things are perceptions. And we have no copper in our lifetime to look at. Ap-39 I went ahead and painted the opposite side with the satin finish black. In the write ups on 1850 paint, Crothers discusses the mix of ink black with red lead and “paint Oil” [ other reference said linseed oil]. If they were painting yards black, they added turpentine to the brew as it... "gave a gloss". [ Therefore, without adding turpentine it may have been flat. I have a different issue. This hull is caved spruce. Despite three treatments of putty and sanding the satin finish highlights every little defect and takes the eye the wrong way as to scale. The spruce grain that I have filled and sanded three times is still there and ruins the concept that one inch of model is eight feet in life. On the flat iron side, there are defects that I can eliminate with another round of fill sand and paint to the result of the back ground is non discernible. That is the look I need for this repair. Once I replace the plank sheer and the channels, I want them to be what is seen not the grain that despite my effort lives on. Conclusion…that is better said my conclusion What I have may be out of scale and to some will be awful. Perhaps I should do copper plate and then acid etc. This test shows my attempt to clearly explain the bottom is copper patina. I spent only $40 on material and having used just 10% of it means that supply could do many more models. I feel it is better to use on the larger hulls meant for RC sailing and someday I shall treat my large 1853 Pilot schooner, I showed in the last posting, that is currently just green paint. I have a friend building a 6-foot Flying Cloud and maybe he will like it. I believe the results are better than green spray paint. ..The option to install thin Copper plates to this hull would have been easily $100++. The market plates are meant, I believe, for larger scale 3/16" and up, so I am not sure what to do. Then I still would have the issue of how to treat to get patina. As to scale with the tape option…..would one punch the nail holes at 1:96? I think not……and unpunched tape just is not worth the effort to prepare the hull. Regardless there is always so much to learn. Years from now, I may laugh at this conclusion. This model is not a fine piece to have any great value. It is chance to salvage an old model and end up with a decent replication of a ship built at the time, so people can see what was built in our harbor. With that logic or at least opinion, it is time for me to move forward. I will do more touch up on the Dixie Bell copper, as handling will cause some damage and I need to address the “too green” spots. I also need to do the rudder. I tried sanding with 400 grit, and it improved the look by removing the roughness and blending colors some. That helped reduce the scale issue. I will use the Ink Black super flat paint for the hull and then a satin when I get to the painted yards. I will re address this when we are really done with the hull. on to the bulk head Cheers
  6. Posting 5 Copper hull experiment I always like to try something new. It does not always work. I am setting myself up for big oops, so let’s follow the bouncing ball, as I attempt a craft approach to copper patina paint. Ap-25 the secret supplies arrive. On the net I found many choices but was most intrigued with the Dixie Bell paint procedures. Here I have chosen the copper patina paint [ in the jar] and the green [ vs optional blue] patina spray. They show applications to vary from the spray to sponge. The sample on the left I did not like. It was too much liquid which over treated the paint and retained a chartreuse green. On the right we have the second sample. One paints a copper layer and lets it dry. One then applys a second coat and added the liquid to the wet paint so like blackening agent for copper and brass fittings, the metal particles suspended in the still wet paint can turn color. Ap-26 here the second sample looks ok Ap-27 the test. Setting the second sample over the green hull I decide to go for it. Ap-28 first coat per instructions….let it dry Ap 29 I was not satisfied with the cover of one coat over the green so I added a second coat….maybe oops. Ap-30 Here as the third wet coat gets sponged, I am optimistic! Ap 31 hours later I am perplexed. Why so different than the flat surface. This may be great results for life size plaster bust that I want to look like old brass but for the scale it may be wrong. Ap-32 here if you compare closely I have put dabs on where the copper showed the most and added more treatment. It’s better but the green if hit twice seems to get too green. What to do. Stand by I am trying side two Jon
  7. Thank you Keith Now I am ready for some real comments on my next two posts.
  8. Post 4 Hull part 2 Ok it is time to move under water line. This carved hull of spruce had large grain, two knots etc. That is fine if I strip it and varnish it as a novelty. I am trying however to depict what a ship was like that was indeed build here, and not what the model is made o. Therefore a crisper cleaner look is needed in this area. The process is routine, the issue becomes do we do three times through or keep going. How are we going to depict the copper? Ap-018 this view is after the first full cycle of bondo, sand 220 grit, putty, sand prime and sand 400. Ap-019 second time we delete bondo and go with smoother glazing putty. Then gray auto filler primer. Sand that 400 grit and spray the green finish. Now we add more glazing putty and sand…yes a mess but we all know it well. Ap-020 the transom. Here is the discussion on different transoms at the time. Alna was the bottom one, Lightly rounded as per this scan from Crothers book. Well our model is defiantly a semi-circle. Looking back to the photo ap-015 we see that if I cut the transom to the right shape shown as pencil on masking tape, I would uncover the rudder. The other alternative would be to cut out a block and set a larger one in its place. Then I would need to carve the transom to extend cheeks and create the correct “lightly curved” profile. I decided to leave as it is and simply record the finding. Ap-021 in this photo one sees the first sailing schooner I built. It is large scale and meant more to sail than to replicate any details. I used rattle can soft green paint to replicate the copper bottom. This is my starting point Ap-022 well here we are as we stand if this level is good enough. This is the third green paint cycle of paint and patch and repaint. As a sign, the can ran dry, so perhaps it’s a signal that we reached enough. Stand by because I am going to try an experiment before leaving the process as is [ loose interpretation of patina] material is on its way. In between coats and other jobs I found a need to rebuilt the standing rigging channels. Ap-023 Here I use the mini saw to try to make them the same length. I found some scrap hard wood similar in color to maple. I find bass wood to"frayey" if there is such a word for this type work. I have a big block of pear someone gave me to mill down but that is a winter project in itself. Ap-024 here I sliced out the groves, again to make them look a like. After this step, they were filed with triangle to get to a groove. I chose to make the lengths and slices based on the Crothers plan which was a little different that the old model. i will be doing the standing rigging on this plan so the groove count will match up. Cheers Jon
  9. Post 3 How about those channels I studied the drawings for building the bulkheads and pin rails. First up I decided was to cut and place the stanchions. Because of the tight scale, I decided to cut them short [3/16”] to come under the pin rail. I then added a 1/16” x 1/16” strip to increase the height properly to the main rail. I want the main rail to end and tied to the waterway on both the focsle deck and half poop deck to follow the Crothers drawing. I have some compromises here. As I said before the focsle is a good 1/16"+ low and I chose not to raise it. I am trying to replicate 4’6” total rail as per Alna but I won’t quite get there. We’ll see. Ap-011 here we are holding down the main rails for the shear. Ap-011a I scanned this page for Crothers book just to show the slippery slope of models ships. This is the pin layout and there are 198 pins…….OK maybe on the next one. Ap-012 I cut it out and looked to see how the existing channels are located. Surprisingly after finding he masts correct, I was surprised to see how poorly they are located. Ap-013 Here is the foremast. I have light pencil lines where the pins go, and the channel location is way off. Ap-014 Here on the main mast we see they are off and awful looking I am happy I get to replace them as it will make fixing up the hull much easier than to try to work around them. Ap-015 here is the mizzen. I also found I need to raise the half poop deck to meet the main rail 1/16". I like this as there was small damage to the first applied deck sheet. The tape and pencil line on the transom I will discuss in the next posting; they represent the proper shape of the stern. Ap-016 So for fun here I have stuck the old masts in to take a look. I have started the hull rebuilding above the water line. About three times through the filler, sand and cleaning process. I want to get this done before working below the water line, but also before the more delicate monkey rails. I need to think about how much rigging so I can plan on pins. I assume at this small scale they are about 5/32”… I guess I set up and cut a bunch of coper wire with black coating to contrast with the ivory [ off white] color scheme of the bulkheads. Ap-017 I love to play with side and back lighting when planning a display. All for now Cheers
  10. Post 2 The hull part 1 I am feeling my way here so I am not sure how far we may go. There is a lot this hull needs but if I go crazy one might ask….as Roger already did ask…..why am I using this old hull, it seems more work than carving a new one........I can attest Roger is right. So let’s try better to stay with the basics Easy ones The red paint must go! Then the decision to add either yellow metal / copper plate as was in vogue according to Crothers on most ships / freighters of the time. He also said that some yards sent them out painted and the owner then added plating and other items in dry dock before her first outing. We shall try to do more research on whether copper was part of the Boothbay Scope, but for now I have no reason not to include it. So for the choices, we will first clean up the rough spruce log look and paint a simple light green to simulate patina copper/ yellow metal [ contained more tin I read] I will share a fun experiment that I thought I might try when it comes. The teaser! lets look a a little progress on the hull Ap-006 So the first thing I did was to cap off the hull with a simple sheet stock decking. I hemmed and hawed about stain colors and ended up with gunstock. A bit too red for some but with sheet stock the grain comes through and blows the scale, so I went dark. I then after one coat of poly added pencil lines on the joints and cut all planks to be 12 feet on three alternating rows. I say all this hoping someone says right or wrong. Please note the added 1/2 poop deck that matched up with e focsle deck on height. The block cut outs are for cladding the deck houses again as per the Alna deck layout plan Ap-007 The second thing is to get the masts laid out and drilled. I want to try to reuse the old ones and their methods was a minor countersink [ 1/16”] at full diameter and a pin. Here I laid out the rake per Crothers on the yellow graph paper and aligned/ shimmed the drill and hull to be square for the pin hole. Ap-008 Here is the first bulkhead. It is ¼[ 2 feet] with waterway inboard. That is 1/16 too low but here I am compromising to fit the preordained low focsle deck. More on that later Ap-009 I had to use lead weights to bend the bulkhead to the existing shear. i wanted to get it in place before fixing the hull...that has several problems Ap-010 just as an import glance I want to share the existing spars that we need to study. I want to rescue them but there are a few dimensional issues. The good news is when I took Crothers dimensions to locate them, the fore and Main mast feel in the same hole almost perfectly. The mizzen was a bit aft but that makes perfect sense as there was no poop deck on the original model, and the rake of the mizzen mast moves the opening on the poop deck right back to the right place. this is good news. All for now Jon
  11. Thank you guys for putting a great perspective on this build....the broom handle I mean. It is going slow right now as i just have a few too many things going and yes I just ordered copper paint patina kits to experiment with......oh my cheers . jon
  12. Thanks Tim Bertha Downs is incredible . Please consider buying the very complete book on the anatomy of that wonderful schooner One might note that more than 10 days to reply shows I have too many irons in the fire. here I am trying to keep a pace of slats per day. i will get there but 15 a day is tough as there are to many o days. I am also fixing up two schooners, and completing the Bowdoin diorama all for may. then I started another ship! i must be nuts...spring clean up is around the corner and we need to get so much done cheers jon
  13. Thanks for the comments. first to Roger.........Thanks for the question because to answer it helps me form my rationalizations and think ahead. This old model was being thrown out by the Maine Maritime Museum. I am trying to give it new life and along with other builds refocusing all to replicate what was built here in Boothbay. I agree that there are several issues with this hull like: the shape of the stern. It should be a "round counter stern' per Crothers. I did some minor sanding to reshape to simulate but not yet achieve even a symmetric curve . I am considering using my oscillating belt to also bring in the end to achieve the counter, but it will not be perfect. The rest of the hull however looked good to me other than two bulges at the bow that I knocked down. the height of the focsle deck is definitely too low. It is only a few feet up and I believe it should be a bit more. the data says the top of the combined bulkhead should be 4'-6".. I will be pushing the monkey rail to get to 4 feet. I want the main rail to tie into the water way for the upper decks as that seems to be the way in the Crothers drawings. the monkey rail then just flows all around. I chose to build up the half poop to match the low focsle, so it comes together in the rails. The cabin I built is therefor also low on the main deck. the correction might have been to carve main deck down, but I felt I am recusing a model and need to relax a bit. my intent is to openly declare what I determine is wrong. I plan to try to breath new life into he model and help a friend who owns it. I also have much to learn from the build and that is big for me. I will spend a few months learning how to work at a new scale for me 1:96 and to do square rigging. I am truly a schooner guy but a little ship learning could help. thanks for following and please help me when you see stuff i miss Kieth i appreciate the help i have gotten following you builds and the few exchanges on upper sails. I have a pair of Canadian 5 foot schooner models in my shop for repairs for our little museum store opening in May. One is Bluenose and the other the Zwicker [ formerly of Boothbay ], both built in Lunenburg. I will post some views , likely on the Bluenose log, for fun and it's a place for me to record them. Like this model they are "Folk art like" cheers jon
  14. Boothbay Maine 1853 ship Aphrodite 1:96 Post 1 The beginning A friend has been rebuilding his Bluenose schooner in my shop for three years. The other day he came over with a broken-down old ship model given away by the Maine Maritime Museum. So it stayed on a shelf since last fall. Now that we are on a quest to build up models of the schooners and ships built in Boothbay, I got an idea. Do some research and come up with a Boothbay ship or bark that in a known scale would be the same size as this model. There is a wonderful book called Shipping days of Old Boothbay. It is available at the Boothbay Region Historical Society. Not only does is follow families that sailed out of the harbor it lists in several sections much about interesting ships, barks and schooners built here. On the chapter about barks there was one candidate that at 800 tons could have worked. It was however not typical. Of the 6 barks built in the main period of the 1850’s listed in the book 5 were all 400 tons or less. The Charles Lewis was 745 tons and built in 1875. She had a long life too…maybe next time On the chapter about ships, again there are about 6. The first one, built in 1853 was the Aphrodite. She was 680 tons and 147 long, 31 wide and 15 deeps. She was built by a well-known builder Stephen Sargent. She sailed far a way and then was lost off the Azores. Perfect size as we took the measurements and found a match with our derelict hull at 1:96 Next up is to find some design. I was very impressed years ago buying a book by William Crothers on Clipper ships. After a little search I found he published a book…American Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850’s How perfect!! Oops it was pricey, but the hull was free so why not. I am so glad I got it…wow what would you like to know. In the index they identify Alna a ship of the same size built in Maine in the same year. So why not that is my data base. So off we go. This will not be a long build but a fun learning experience. We shall reuse what we can, but I suspect most above the deck will be new. Unfortunately, we forgot to take a picture of as is. Trust me it was ugly. The hull is a carved soft wood with minor applications. The cabins were just blocking and the rails 1/8th thick, so as the queen said, off with their heads. Here you see the dead eyes wire loops were wrapped with like No 17 brads. The figure head was a large clown…yes a clown… goneso. The record of Alna only listed the carved and gilded Billethead. so I will thicken the stem to form a billet and add some stick on tape with gold filligree The stern was sort of round. Looking through Crother's book, there is a rounded stern that was typical of the era and listed to be on Alna. Also there was no poop deck. So after days of reading and thinking, we are adding a ½ poop deck based on Crothers findings. Here we have removed most everything and are cleaning up an under-deck. You can see the crudeness of the remaining bow and taft rails removed after this photo Here a little of the glazing putty to try to smooth out an under deck. there are at least 40 toothpick tips glued into old large brad holes to be sanded as well. When I laid out Alna masts, two matched perfectly an the mizzen within a 1/16. adding the half poop pushes the hole aft so we match there too. the fore deck extends aft and that is good because we gain an overhang All for now jon
  15. It's time to bring Charlie out again. I plan to record this as the final chapter in Charlies build and use. Maybe then I will say...completely finished This summer I plan to give a few lectures on the four masted schooners of Boothbay. Although Charlie was built in Bath in 1894 she is right there as to the size of the last several large schooners built here. The boom years were 1919-1921. During that spell, 10 Schooners were built right here. Next fall and winter I plan for trying to organize a diorama showing one of the yards and two of the schooners. We shall be celebrating 100 years since the launching. That yard has been a great lobster wharf for many years. i will start that as a new post later this year and hope to get other folks to build buildings and the lay out. Here I will update the repairs and completion activities to get Charles Notman ready to show off, and some of the highlights of the history of these schooners here in the harbor. If you go back to the first few posts in this log, i built Charlie to be a prototype. I had hoped to build two sailing versions and get them to sail in the harbor. The problem is they really do not sail well as RC. Therefore I will move on and try to get some normal two masted schooners to sail as there are many examples of the success they have in RC. Boothbay had many pinky schooners and a large sardine and off shore fishing fleet to chose from My punch list consists of the need to: complete the starboard side shrouds.here i am splicing the first two of six to go. complete starboard ratlines..ugh lots of them repair yawl boat and its broken support clean and clean.. wow the dust try to coil and hang lines. add a few missing windows and cabin details repair several lose lines and broken chains figure out transport. complete some graphics for the display complete power point lecture In conclusion I will include a few visuals of a few schooners i am fixing up for the new museum store. I believe just a little each day and it will be OK . I need to complete all by May cheers jon

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