HMS Victory by Glenn-UK - Caldercraft - 1/72

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

What ship have you bought?

[Jerry]

Viking Ship Drakkar by Amati..

 

Also will you please explain how one lists previous models built at the end of a post so that they appear every time you make a post

 

Thanks,

 

Jerry. 

Edited April 23, 2015 by Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Work continues with Hammock Cranes.

 

Pictures of first completed hammock crane assembly

 

Fitted the poop deck hammock cranes both  port and starboard

 

Added the rigging thread to starboard side

 

Starting to attach the netting

attachment=232102:007 Hammock Netting Poop.jpg]

Edited April 23, 2015 by Glennard

[robert22564]

Marvelous job, well done Glenn

[Jerry]

Love it, Glenn...Way to go

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

New toy arrived on Friday, needed to rearrange the shipyard which I did tonight.

 

Prottox DB250 Mini Lathe

 

Used the lathe to taper the bow spirit, it was a easy task only took about 10 minutes to reduced for 12.7mm to 9.5mm at the cap end just using sand paper. Also made the 4.3mm square end for the cap. Not totally happy with how that turned out. I may keep it but I may make another one. I will decide after I have completed the work on the bow cap, as it may be OK with a bit of wood filler to fill any unsightly gaps.

 

Still working on the hammock crane and netting which I can continue in slow time

 

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Glenn

I want one!! Am I correct in saying 10mm or slightly smaller dowel can be fed through the Collet. Looks like the masts will be a doddle. Now loads of enjoyment and sawdust. Well done Glenn. DAVID

[Jerry]

Best of luck and good wishes, Glenn, with your new gimmick.  Now you can go back to being precise.  Looks like it's meant for a hobby like ours. Your hammock cranes look good and you're really coming along.  Hope you have many happy hours with what David wants. (He wants one of those....)

Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

You are correct sized for 10mm, but I was able to feed the 12.7mm dowel through which I had already reduced to about 12.5mm in order to fit in the hull bow spirit slot.

 

Limited to about 220mm length if using the collets or face plates

 

I cant see a need to buy the 3 jaw chuck for working mast and yards.

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Jerry

I love my new toy.

 

Good luck with your new build when the kit arrives

[Glenn-UK]

I wasn't planning on posting until I completed some more work on the bowsprit then I thought I would show a picture of my new lathe in action, which I used to taper the jibboom. Starting with a 6mm dowel reducing down to 5mm for a distance of 73mm and then tapered from 5mm down to 3.7mm. Didn't take too long to do. I'm just loving this new toy of mine, but now need to clean up all the saw dust as can be seen in the picture below.

 

I also made the necessary cut outs in the bowsprit cap and also tapered the top and bottom edge. Pictures below show the bowsprit, cap and jibboom dry fitted. The jibboom will run parallel with the bowsprit w hen it properly installed.

 

According to the manual both ends of the jibboom requires octagonal shaping. I'm wondering if this is really necessary and would welcome any thoughts on this matter.

[Jerry]

Nice going, Glenn.  Looks like your new "toy" will come in very handy for a long time to come

 

I did shape both ends of the jibboom to octagonal profiles.  I found it handy for the jibboom to sit on it's little cradle mounted on the bowsprit, and at the other end it helped to mate the jibboom and flying jibboom.  It gives one more surface to glue as opposed to gluing two cylindrical surfaces.  I also flattened the aft end of the flying jibboom to mate it with the octagonical shape at the fore end of the jibboom.  I hope this makes sense.

Jerry 

 

P.S.  My Viking Ship kit has arrived.....now for more Italian interpreting....

Edited April 29, 2015 by Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks for that Jerry, I will follow suit.

 

Enjoy your new build.

[Shipyard sid]

Hello Glenn

Excellent stuff. Yes enjoyment galore from now on in. I still want one !!! and that's no prob at all BUT !!! I am informed that the carpet goes and wooden floor must be installed. Lots of my octagons are hexagons, especially on the thinner dowel. Regards DAVID

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks David

The carpet will stay as it soft under foot and warm plus it stops the stuff I drop bouncing away and difficult to find.

[Jerry]

If you wear a shop apron all the little things you drop will land in your lap.

[Glenn-UK]

Work continues on the Bowsprit.

 

First task was to make the Gammoning Saddles. My initial idea was to follow Gil's excellent method to cut a dowel in half and then use a dremmel sanding tool to hollow out. After some different attempts, I was not happy with the finished product.

Picture of Gil's  Method

 

I then reverted to using 3mm strips which I was able to cut and bend as necessary and I think will looks ok after some more sanding and a coat or two of yellow paint.

Picture of the Gammoning Saddles fitted

 

I then completed the work on the bow cap, sheaves and bees.

Pictures of bow cap, sheaves and bees

 

I have also add the banding strips and shaped the 15 off stop cleats which I plan to install to tomorrow, after which I can add a coat of two of paint. Its not 100% clear from plan sheet 11 if the banding continues and is used between the stop cleats. More research is need .

Picture of Stop Cleats

 

I have continued to work on the hammock cranes as well.

Picture of Current Status

 

 

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn..

No sense telling you how good your work is because it always is.  Just wanted to mention that I used some balsa wood which i shaped for he gammoning saddles.  That worked out ok.  As for the bands. I ran them all the way just pass where the spiritsail yard mounts under the bowsprit.  I hope I'm not misleading you.  Good to see your nice job.

Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Bowsprit, jibboom and flying jibboom completed. I have just tied these parts together for the time being as I will not glue the assembly together until after I have added the blocks which will be done once I have completed making all the masts and yards. I will remove the bowsprit from the build for the time being to avoid breaking the pointy thing, which I think according to Jerry and David is a right of passage for this build!

 

Here is a couple pictures

 

Yard rings will be painted once the assembly is installed and they are correctly positioned

 

 

Also progressing with hammock crane assemblies

Edited May 5, 2015 by Glennard

[Jerry]

Good moring, Glenn,

Very nice work on the bowsprit.  Now be very careful with the pointy thing.  You know the story and how many times I broke mine off.  All kidding aside, you are really making excellent progress and you will end up with a trophy model.  I particularly like how nicely you made and applied the "stop cleats."  It's not easy to trim strip wood that small.  Have a great day.

Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Jerry

It took three attempts before I was happy with the positioning of the stop cleats, so ended up making quite a few of them.

I found it quite easy to file the end of the 1.5mmx 1.5mm strip strip and then cut to size before repeating the process for the next stop cleat.

The pointy thing is now put to one side to avoid any possible damage.

 

Have a great day working on your Viking build.

[Jerry]

Just thought I'd mention that when I finished Victory I had a lot of material left over.  Tons of strip wood and a lot of 1.5x1.5mm strips.  I probably left something off the model.  All these leftovers have come in handy so far with the succeeding builds.

 

Talk to you soon,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

I have been able to use spare material left over from my Scottish Maid build also, plus I have also bought also sorts of additional material from CMB when correcting errors in my build.

[Glenn-UK]

Started work on the Fore mast.

 

First task was to reduce the 12.7 round dowel to an 8mm square for a length of 73.1mm. This was relatively straight forward using my David plane and file. The first 5mm was then reduced further to a 6mm square.

 

The two sides where the sheeves are fitted where then tapered, again using the David plane and flat file.

 

 

I will continue to work on the foremast assembly before moving on the main the then mizzan masts.

Edited May 9, 2015 by Glennard

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn.

Very nice job on the foremast.  The square areas are very sharp and clean.  I could never use a small plane  (David plane) too wel, l so I did all of my mast squaring with my belt and disc sander.  It worked out okay, I guess, but they don't look as square and sharp as yours do.  Keep up the great work; I'm truthfully enjoying your log .

Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Jerry

Many thanks, with the dowel secured in the vice the David plane I found it quite easy to get the flat edge started, then followed this with plenty of arm work with the flat file. I did experiment with my small disc sander but didn't like the result.

 

enjoy your weekend

[Shipyard sid]

Greetings Glenn

Well done. Cracking work on the sticks, and a nice place to be. St James' Park isn't. It's not look good in Geordie land. Keep enjoying it. DAVID

[Glenn-UK]

Just a quick update, working continues on the foremast.

 

I have completed adding the sheeves, bibbs and banding.

 

I test fitted the boarding pike mast rings, and noted the mast needs to reduced in diameter to accept them which is not stated in the manual, all is good now after some more sanding.

 

Also I have completed adding all the batons to the foremast platform.

Platform is only dry fitted at this stage

 

I think I paint the mast next before moving on to the next Fore Top mast assembly.

 

[Jerry]

Real nice job on the foremast platform.  It looks crisp and very real.  Good work.

Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

I have completed the basic manufacturing of the Fore Mast sub assemblies, this has been a really interesting and rewarding part of the build and I will now repeat this process for the main and mizzen masts.

 

Picture of the Fore Mast and Fore Top mast assemblies dry fitted in position

 

Here are some pictures of the manufacturing process of the Fore Top Gallant Mask

First task was to locate a length of 6mm dowel in the mini lathe

 

Marking the Fore Top Gallant mast prior to the tapering of the mast sections

 

Turning of the Fore Top Gallant mast complete, just need to file the unturned areas square or octagonal as shown on the plan sheet

 

Complete dry fit of fre mast Assembly in place

 

There is just one problem to overcome and that is how to fit the fore top gallant mast block.

The kit part has a 4mm square hole and 4mm round hole

 

The top of the fore top mast is 4mm square and this fits nicely in the 4mm block square hole.

The Top gallant mask has a 4mm square section at the bottom which fits nicely in the 4mm square hole on the fore top mast platform. As it is not possible to feed the 4mm square end of the fore top gallant mast through the 4mm round hole to the position the block as shown on the plan sheet I think I will simply tweek the 4mm round hole to a 4mm square hole such that the fore top gallant mast passes through. Once everything is finally assembled I will then use my good friend Mr Wood Filler to hide the gaps.