Help Rigging Santa Maria

[mkmossop]

So I need help with the rigging of the ropes circled in red (don't know what these are called). What sort of technique do I use to tie on the sections which pass horizontally across these? Also in the pictures I've seen the horizontal rope seems to be thinner than the vertical rope, but I'm not sure. Should I be using thinner rope for this section?

 

Thanks for any help!

Edited January 13, 2014 by mkmossop

[DSiemens]

I'm kind of surprised no ones answered this yet.  That section of rope is called shrouds or ratlines.  A clove hitch is used to tie them.  Check out this thread.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1096-rigging-ratlines/  The lines are smaller then the stay lines but I'm not sure by how much.  

Edited January 14, 2014 by DSiemens

[russ]

The shrouds are the vertical lines and the ratlines are the horizontal lines across the shrouds. The ratlines are thinner, typically about 1/2 inch scale diameter. As Daniel said, they are tied to each shroud with a clove hitch.

 

Russ

[mkmossop]

Cool thanks so much for the replies that helps a lot!

 

I don't think I got the correct rope in my kit to do the ratlines so I'm going to have to buy some. I've bought some before though and it's frustrating because it's not the exact same rope (different colour/texture) and I don't know where to get the same stuff from.

Edited January 15, 2014 by mkmossop

[DSiemens]

Russ thanks for the correction as to which is shroud and which is ratlines.  I hadn't realized the difference.  

[mkmossop]

I'm having trouble deciding whether I should place a piece of wood across the shrouds. Anyone have any opinion based on the pics below? I just taped one on to see how it would look.

 

I'm leaning towards yes because it would help me space the shrouds slightly further apart, and it would also help me to twist all the deadeyes so they're at the same angle. I'm not sure I like how it looks though.

 

 

 

 

[amateur]

I would say: no. Those spacers weren't introduced till long after 1800.

 

Second remark (but that implies redoing all....): your dead eyes are way too far from each other. The distance between thme shoul be around 2-2.5 times their diameter. The upper deadeyes should be below the railing, so that sailors standing on the railing could step upon the ratlines between the shrouds.

 

Jan

[mkmossop]

I'm not too concerned about historical accuracy... I'm going more for just aesthetic appeal.

 

And ya I know they're really far apart and I wish I had made them a bit closer, but they took me a long time to do and I really don't want to redo them. Also on the cover on the box they're the same distance apart (pic below is box cover).

 

Edited June 24, 2014 by mkmossop

[DSiemens]

Jan's comment is well educated and a good point to follow in your future models.  The model is yours though build it how you like and to the best of your knowledge and pleasure. If it's what you like leave it.  Aesthetically I'd leave the spacer off.  Just my own opinion.  I've never seen one on a caravel myself.  It's very good that your thinking outside the box and including parts that aren't part of the original kit.  It makes it yours and that much more fun.        

[mkmossop]

Ok thanks for your help .

 

Would there be any way to space the shrouds slightly further apart and twist the deadeyes so they're all facing the same direction without using a spacer?

[amateur]

No there isns'nt: the turning of the dead-eyes is the result of the tension in the lanyards connecting the dead-eayes.

It becomes less when you hve a lower tension, but then your shrouds will not be straight....

It happens almost Always, and in your case it is quite pronounced, as the distance between the deadeyese is large enough tot have almost a halve turn between them. It will become slightly less when you start your ratlines: have the spacer in place when you start doing your ratlines, and make sure the dead-eyses are facing front. The combined ratlines will make it less easier for the shouds/dedeyse to twist.

 

Jan

[marktime]

However, whilst it may not be historically accurate, if you add the spacer then I'm sure you'll feel that the dead eyes look better and that seems to be what is important for you.

 

And let me add, the real Santa Maria is lying on the sea-bed off the coast of Haiti and no one really knows what she looked like so your version is as accurate as any other.   

 

Your model looks very clean and nicely built so well done. Let's have a picture of her in the gallery when you have finished.

[mkmossop]

have the spacer in place when you start doing your ratlines, and make sure the dead-eyses are facing front. The combined ratlines will make it less easier for the shouds/dedeyse to twist.

 

Jan

 

Thanks good idea. I'll try this and hopefully I can get them fairly even. I actually asked this question a while ago in another thread and someone mentioned putting some glue on the rope above the deadeye and twisting it... not sure how it would work but I'll do a test.

 

Your model looks very clean and nicely built so well done. Let's have a picture of her in the gallery when you have finished.

 

Thanks . I worked very hard on trying to keep it clean.

 

[mkmossop]

Need a bit more help...

 

How do I attach the smaller rope in this picture to the wooden deadeye (where it's circled in red)? Do I thread it below the thicker rope and then tie a rope around it to secure it as I've done to attach the thicker rope to the deadeye? The instruction manual for this ship is very undetailed.

 

Second pic shows what I'm talking about.

 

 

[marktime]

I drilled additional holes through the block,following the replica design

[marktime]

A sketch

[mkmossop]

Cool thanks both for your help... not sure which method I'll use.

 

I tried something else myself based on how it looks in the other model pictures I've seen. I threaded the thinner rope beneath the thicker one and then fastened it. Is this an actual technique for this or just something I made up?

 

Edited July 8, 2014 by mkmossop

[amateur]

Nope, this is pretty much how it was done 'in real'.

(apart from the fact that in reality, the block was stropped in a separate strop, with two eys (one on top, one on the bottom).

Too small to reproduce at this scale.

 

Jan

[mkmossop]

Cool thanks! I'll do them as I did above then.

[mkmossop]

Another question... what type of knot do I use to fasten this rope to the side of the ship (not sure what that piece is called)?

Edited July 30, 2014 by mkmossop

[amateur]

NOt an answer but a question in return:

Do you have belaying pins in your kit?

 

Jan

[amateur]

1. 
2. ON your model one turn will be enough.

Jan

[mkmossop]

I don't have belaying pins no. The pins are for fastening the loose end of the rope though aren't they? From what I can see on my model I need to tie the rope on to the horizontal piece, then loop it through the dead eye, and then reattach it to the horizontal piece.

 

So when I initially attach it I assume I need to knot it on... is there a specific kind of technique for this?

 

The instructions aren't very clear for this part. For the rest of the model the rope is fastened to a ring on the ground as shown in this picture. I'm 90% sure though that for this dead eye I don't use one of those rings and I'm supposed to fasten it to the horizontal piece... does that seem right?

Edited July 30, 2014 by mkmossop

[mkmossop]

Anyone know what the purpose of the ropes circled in red are? I'm considering omitting them because I don't want to take the chance of messing up my masts when I drill a hole in them.

 

Also in the front it looks like the rope is tied to the spar... does this make sense? Wouldn't that turn the sail? Or is that the purpose?

[popeye2sea]

Those lines look to be halyards.  Their purpose is to raise or lower the yards into position.  Lines number 11, 13, 14 and 15 are all halyards.  Lines number 12 are lifts.  They control the horizontal angle of the yards (one end higher or lower than the other).

[mkmossop]

Interesting... thanks for the help!