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Posted

Finished the hawse holes and the bitt. The ends of the bitt are projecting through the planking. Also glued the stanchions to the inside of the bulwark.

 

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Posted

Achieved a small progress. The capping rails from 1x5 mm pear are shaped onsite using the iron and glued to their places.

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Posted

For the deck of the after castle I have enclosed the area with 2x5 pear strips, then put the deck from 1 mm ply inside this area and planked with 1x5mm maple strips.  Caulking, nails and joggling are made  same as the main deck.

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Posted

I’ve bent the frames of the windows of the after castle same as I’ve done before and cut them in 1 mm thicknesses and glued to their places.
At this stage as long as I can still work upside down I’ve taken the advantage and finished the stand using brass tubes sliding into each other and 2 mm steel rod.

 

Posted

I’ve bent the frames of the windows of the after castle same as I’ve done before and cut them in 1 mm thicknesses and glued to their places.
At this stage as long as I can still work upside down I’ve taken the advantage and finished the stand using brass tubes sliding into each other and 2 mm steel rod.

 

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Posted

I’ve made the masts and spars from limewood dowel. Tapered them on a “V” shaped jig.
I’ve left the mastheads untapered, filed this portion square and glued thick strips on it. Then I formed these blocks and simulated sheaves by drilling holes.
Main yard and mizzen yard are from two parts lashed together. I slightly flattened the coincident area of the two parts. Other yards are tapered at both ends.

Next task will be to fit the rudder still having the opportunity to work upside down. I formed the rudder from three parts.

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Posted

Continuing with the rudder, next step will be the metal parts. I’ve cut the stripes from 0,5 mm brass sheet holding the sheet between two ply plates. Then in order to get uniform 2 mm wide bands I clamped again the stripes between two sheets upright and filed carefully both edges. Gudgeon and pintle are from 2 mm brass tube and 1,2 mm brass rod. I’ve silver soldered them to the stripes.
Then bend the parts on a wooden plug using a flat faced needle nose plier to have sharp edges. 
Also drilled the holes on the plug.I trial fitted everything and drilled also the rudder and stern. Put the parts aside to be blackened later.
 

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Posted

I’m making the deck of the forecastle.
Base is from 1 mm ply. The sides are 3x5 mm pear strip, edges grooved 1 mm  to accept the ply. To form the camber of the deck I made a plug. Planked the underside of the ply with 1 mm maple strips, two of them layed cross and the rest longitudinal. Right away I clamped the deck on the plug and left the glue to dry a couple of days.  Fortunately it kept its shape very well. Next I glued the frame of pear strips and , planked the upper side. Joggling, caulking and nails are made in the same way as before.
 

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Posted
Posted

Finished the top. To build a symmetrical, proper top first I’ve built a guide and constructed the part on this guide. The first ring has been bent from 2x2 strip. The second ring has been cut from sheet. The perpendiculars are from 2x3 strip. I do not go into detail here too much as the photos show the steps clearly. 

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Posted
Posted

Finished the ladders on the deck using ready parts from stock. As the scale of these ladders are ok, with little modification and adjustment they fitted to their places.

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Posted

Little progress again. Finished the capstan, hatch and the pump. The capstan and pump are from lime wood. For the pump I drilled dowels through and finished with round files.

 

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Posted (edited)

Finished the channels from 3mm pear sheet and pinned/glued (white glue) to the hull side. 
 

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Edited by Ilhan Gokcay
Posted
Posted

For the triangular deadeyes, I have modified circular deadeyes in several stages as seen on the photos.
These are used at mizen mast and foremast.

 

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Posted

Finished the knights and their blocks from pear strip. And belaying pins from 1,5mm dowel.

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Posted

Finished the eyebolts and chain plates. The main links of the chain plates are chain. For all the joining I used silver soldering. At this stage, I left the chain plates slightly spaced as I will put the deadeyes later after blackening.

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Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for reposting this build-log Ilhan, it is a very good build, an interesting ship, and I very much enjoy following your work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Posted

Hi Pat, thanks.

I like MSW. I've uploaded also my two old build logs. I hope to see MSW as it was before.

 

Ilhan

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