chompsalot Posted February 28, 2014 Share #1 Posted February 28, 2014 Hi all! So I have just completed the hardest part on my build. Which was waiting for Fedex to show up with my package. Now I have a basic question already. I have Gorilla glue and Elmer's wood glue. Are these ok to use or should i get something else? Well off to finish unboxing and inspecting parts. More to come soon. p_balag 1 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted February 28, 2014 Share #2 Posted February 28, 2014 I always use Elmer's yellow carpenter's glue. The Elmer's wood glue will be fine. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Jane Posted February 28, 2014 Share #3 Posted February 28, 2014 I also think that you will find instant and gap filling CA glue will be very handy !!! Quote Completed - HMS Bounty - Billings - 1x50http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3567-hms-bounty-by-don-jane-billings-scale-150/#entry100237 Next project - Bluenose - Billings - 1:65 - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4351-bluenose-by-don-jane-billings-scale-1-65/?hl=%2Bdon+%2Bjane# Also Underway - Gorch Fuch - OcRee - 1:95 -http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4360-gorch-fuch-by-don-jane-occre-scale-1-95/?hl=%2Bdon+%2Bjane# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted February 28, 2014 Share #4 Posted February 28, 2014 Elmers is the glue to use., David B Quote Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock.http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003 Completed Blockade runner Teazer http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967 Completed The Monitor Lehigh http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680 Completed Kingston Class MCVD http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopJack Posted March 1, 2014 Share #5 Posted March 1, 2014 I've used yellow wood glue (Titebond 2) and Weldbond along with CCA. The only issue with yellow wood glue I had was.... wait for it... it's yellow. Sometimes on a messy application it shows. The Weldbond dries clear. I've never used Gorilla Glue except for the original messy foaming formula, so I can't comment tasmanian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share #6 Posted March 1, 2014 Great, thank you. So far I'm building this piece of garbage Fair-A-Frame with 3 versions of revised instructions. Which is really wonderful since none of the measurements are correct anyway. I've read here that there are better options to use, so i think i'm just building it because it's here. Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 1, 2014 Share #7 Posted March 1, 2014 The Fair a Frame is indeed a waste of time. But, if you are having fun with it.... Seriously, there are plenty better ways to get your frames in straight and true. I use a steel machinist's square made for model work. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share #8 Posted March 1, 2014 So I'm not really sure why they made this false keel four pieces. The two identical pieces for the front, then the same for the back sandwiched together, then join the front and back. However there it is and it's drying. Reading through the instructions for the next step, it says to cut the rabbet and the bearding line. I am curious if that it a good idea or not. I've seen a few posts that talk about adding a piece of scrap because they cut to much? Any advise would be great. Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopJack Posted March 1, 2014 Share #9 Posted March 1, 2014 My 2 cents: Cutting the rabbit is a bit tedious, but if you are careful not too hard to do. I built two models without cutting one (instructions didn't call for one and I didn't know how hard or easy it would be) and one with. It is easy to "over-cut" so you need to be careful. When you do over cut you may have to remove and replace some wood with scrap. I over cut a bit on one and it worked out fine without doing anything. When you don't cut the rabbit you can make a joint that looks good, but it is more difficult. When you cut the rabbit the joint nearly makes itself. My advice: Cut the rabbit. Duanelaker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 1, 2014 Share #10 Posted March 1, 2014 I have never seen a model with that sort of profile former. Are you sure that they meant for you to sandwich the pieces together like that? I would have thought that you would have two pieces, front and back. It almost sounds like you got two profile formers in your kit. I do not know why they would have done that. However, if the instructions specifically mention the sandwiched pieces, then it must be so. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share #11 Posted March 1, 2014 Yeah, I thought it was kinda weird. The bulkheads are the same size as the keel sandwich. Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timo4352 Posted March 1, 2014 Share #12 Posted March 1, 2014 Hope you don't mind if I follow along. Good luck with the build. Quote Tim "That's a fine looking pair of oars you got there, Sir"" 'em aint 'ores --- that's me wife and me daughter! " Current build: Glad Tidings Pinky Schooner Past builds: 1:1 Stick-Up Sharpie Build Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by Timo4352 - Midwest Products - SMALL - First time builder Gunning Dory sail & oar boat 1:1 Future Build: Scratch built Mower Dory - scale undetermined yet another future build: Martha - Chesapeake draketail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elia Posted March 1, 2014 Share #13 Posted March 1, 2014 Brian, I've just caught up with your Ben Latham build. Looks like a good start you got going. I look forward to seeing the hull develop. Cheers, Elia Quote Elia Rose Valley, PA Arethusa: 1907 Gloucester Knockabout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopJack Posted March 1, 2014 Share #14 Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Curiosity killed the PopJack. I couldn't help myself, I checked the parts list for you on this ship. It reads (in part): "The center keel, keel, stem, sternpost, and rudder each are supplied in two 1/8” thick pieces. Glue these together to form the required 1/4” thickness." So, I guess you are good! (But now that I've done that, I realize how easy it is for anyone to check and see that I don't always follow directions!) Can't wait to watch the build. The ship is a great one to model. Edited March 1, 2014 by PopJack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonedudeak Posted March 2, 2014 Share #15 Posted March 2, 2014 Brian- Welcome to the newly forming fleet of Benjamin Latham builds! Looking good so far! I am also building the B.L. and am only a few steps ahead of you, hopefully starting planking the hull tonight. Yes the false keel is in four pieces, the only thing that I came up with for a reason to do it this way is that this way it is easer to get a straight hull by clamping it to a flat surface while gluing. But I may be way off, who knows Check out my build thread in my signature and I will check here often as well and we can bounce ideas and questions off one another. I think this is going to be a fun ship to build. Quote -Justin Current Build: Benjamin W Latham - Model Shipways "Even a mistake may turn out to be the one thing necessary to a worthwhile achievement." -Henry Ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share #16 Posted March 2, 2014 A bit more progress today. I did the rabbet and bearding line, not sure if it's correct really but I think it's pretty close. I did some shaping on the keel stem and rudder. Then installed the stem. After it dried I noticed my line was a bit off. Once the glue cures I'll shape it a bit more. Well, back to sanding on the bulkheads.... p_balag 1 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share #17 Posted March 3, 2014 It's starting to take shape! There is a slight warp in one of the middle bulkheads that I couldn't straighten out. I'm not sure if it will be an issue or not? All the rest of them are square so I think it will be ok. My next step is checking the fairness. However, I was wondering if I should install the transom first? Or am i thinking to hard? Aussie048, Elia, tasmanian and 2 others 5 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 3, 2014 Share #18 Posted March 3, 2014 The framework looks pretty good so far. I could not see the warp in the bulk you mention. So long as the center profile former is not warped, you should be okay. A slight warp across one bulkhead will probably not be a big deal. Any difference should be taken care of during the fairing process when you prep the hull for planking. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonedudeak Posted March 3, 2014 Share #19 Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) looking good so far! I found that the transom just got in the way while forming the bulkheads ( well it kinda broke off so I left it ) and installed it when I put the plank sheers in place. One other thing to look at is on the bulkheads where the plank sheer will be placed, I cant tell in your pictures if you already prepped them yet but you have to sand the bulkhead stanchions down a bit so that the plank sheer will fit over the stanchions flush with the outside of the bulkhead. I was surprised at how much they have to go down and found it a lot easer to prep these as I was fairing out the rest of the ship. Edited March 3, 2014 by SaltyAK Quote -Justin Current Build: Benjamin W Latham - Model Shipways "Even a mistake may turn out to be the one thing necessary to a worthwhile achievement." -Henry Ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share #20 Posted March 3, 2014 Haha, I was just looking at that. I did prep the stanchions some but I was afraid of taken them down to much. I can see now that it wasn't even close. Tanks for the tip. Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonedudeak Posted March 3, 2014 Share #21 Posted March 3, 2014 No problem I found the same thing last week on mine, Lessons learned Quote -Justin Current Build: Benjamin W Latham - Model Shipways "Even a mistake may turn out to be the one thing necessary to a worthwhile achievement." -Henry Ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share #22 Posted March 3, 2014 So, I'm a bit confused about the transom framing piece. I have to bevel it on top and bottom, and then bend it. I guess the bottom dotted line is the underside bevel, and the solid line above it is the top bevel? And then the plans show to bend it to the curve shown. That's where I'm really confused. At what points is that measured? Elia 1 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 3, 2014 Share #23 Posted March 3, 2014 The dotted line is the outside bevel at the bottom. The second line down from the top is the inboard bevel for the top. You can make up a bending jig based on that curved line they show you. Match the centerline on the plan with the centerline of the actual transom and then use heat and/or moisture to bend the pieces slightly to match that curve. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share #24 Posted March 3, 2014 I have the bevels cut. But I'm still not sure the way it should be bent. Is it towards the center line from each side? or top to bottom? Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 3, 2014 Share #25 Posted March 3, 2014 Yes, it is side to side bending. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share #26 Posted March 4, 2014 I think I have the correct bend in the transom plate now. It looks about right. I also installed the plank sheers. However, I'm finding that the bulkheads are very brittle. While fairing the frame and shaping the stanchions, I broke several of them. Instead of carving, they seem to kinda just split or that brake right off. I've glued them back in place but think I might have gotten a defective kit. tarbrush, Elia, tasmanian and 1 other 4 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ Posted March 4, 2014 Share #27 Posted March 4, 2014 If the bulkheads are solid basswood, breakage of the stanchions is quite common. No real defect here except that basswood is prone to break in these situations. I even had a few break on my current scratch built project. I could have used plywood, but it is harder to work. Russ Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phonedudeak Posted March 4, 2014 Share #28 Posted March 4, 2014 Brian, your not alone with the bulkheads breaking off, the kits use a lower quality plywood for those and the center ply is very soft and almost crumbles. I'm going to replace a few of mine that broke off too and depending how they look they all might get replaced, I still don't know Your hull is looking nice and straight! Quote -Justin Current Build: Benjamin W Latham - Model Shipways "Even a mistake may turn out to be the one thing necessary to a worthwhile achievement." -Henry Ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chompsalot Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share #29 Posted March 4, 2014 Thanks guys, that's good to know. Hopefully they will stay put until i get some planks around them. If not maybe I'll cut them flush with the deck and make my own...lol vincent lombardi 1 Quote Brian Parsons Current Build: Rattlesnake Side/Next Build: Benjamin Latham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PopJack Posted March 4, 2014 Share #30 Posted March 4, 2014 On my bluenose, I broke several stanchions and chipped others while trying to shape them. I glued them back on as best I could and left them on until the bulwark planks were attached. AFTER all the planks were all installed and everything was nice and solid, I installed the fake stanchions (I'm assuming your kit will have some) gluing them to the deck and the bulwark. After those had dried, I carefully cut off the damaged stanchions (breaking the glue joint to the bulwark) and replaced them with fake ones that match. I'm not familiar with your build to know for sure this will work, but it might. can send you some photos if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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