making sweeps

[hamilton]

Hi there:

 

I'm nearing the end of a kit-bash of Corel's Greyhound, which I've built as HMS Blandford (or near-ish, with respect to those on this forum who really know what they're doing!). Inspired by images of a period model re-printed in Peter Goodwin's Anatomy of the Ship HMS Blandford and to be seen in colour on the NMM website here, I've decided to add 36 sweeps.

 

I've made sweeps at larger scale (1:25) for the Corel Brittany Sloop and the Corel Flattie (2 for each!), but at 1:25, they were pretty straightforward. Faced with making 36 at 1:100 scale, I'm a little puzzled as to technique.

 

Originally I had thought of making the blade and the shaft separately (blade out of 1mm x 4mm stock which I would thin down; shaft out of 2mm x 2mm stock which I would reduce to 1mm round). My idea was to file a thin slot in the 2mm x 2mm shaft and glue the blade in, then once the glue had cured whittle and sand the thing into shape. Now I wonder if trying to carve them out of a single piece would be easier.....

 

Anyway - I thought I would post something here to canvas for techniques for producing these things. And while I'm at it I might as well also ask for suggestions for finishing them - the NMM model shows them in red with the end of the blade finished what might once have been white....or yellow? Very hard to tell.....does anyone know what might have been the early 18th century practice?

 

Thanks to all in advance for the help! 

hamilton

[hamilton]

Thanks Brian - I may have my terminology wrong.....I'm talking about the oars themselves

hamilton

[jud]

Haven't made any sweeps myself but you have made me wonder if 36  sweeps could be shaped by using the technique some are use to make multiple sides for cannons.  They use blocks of wood  trimmed to the outside dimensions, then using a milling machine cut the needed steps and axle slots across the whole block., when it looks right they saw slices from that shaped block the width they need for their cannon carriages. Sweeps should be simpler to do that way, could use a saw, files and sand paper if you don't have the mill.  They would be delicate after slicing them from the block and doing the final shaping but that would also be true if  you  fabricated each sweep individually.

jud

Edited March 23, 2014 by jud

[hamilton]

Thanks Jud - I'm tending towards carving them out of single strips, as you suggest, though a few experiments will be necessary....the dimensions of these things will make them quite fragile - a 1mm diameter shaft, e.g. I'm bound to break a few through this process......I'm assuming it will be better to use a harder wood to make them, since this may prevent splintering and breaking. I'll try a couple from basswood (which will be easier to work with hand tools - no power tools here) and a couple from walnut and compare the results....

hamilton

[russ]

Sweep is the correct terminology. I have made model boat oars using both methods. I found it easier to make the paddle separately and notch the end of the handle to receive it. Others prefer to make them in one piece. You might experiment to see what works best fro you.

 

Russ

[Chuck Seiler]

    If the shafts are going to be 1MM in diameter, and you are adding the blade to the shaft, I would recommend using bamboo for the shaft.  I use it for 'functional trunnls' where I want to attach something (deck furniture) with something more than glue.  At 1MM it is still strong, however I do not go for any lengths greater than about 1/4 inch. 

 

    I use bamboo BBQ skewers,  Split them to almost the desired diameter, chuck them in a Dremel and sand to the desired diameter.

[russ]

Chuck:

Good call. I like that idea for such small diameters. I have used bamboo for very small stanchions and wheel spokes, drawing them down with a drawplate.

 

Russ

[hamilton]

Thanks Russ and Chuck:

 

Chuck - I'll try your method - I have an ample supply of bamboo skewers (getting ready for bbq season!) but the sweeps are roughly 3 1/2 inches in length - I'm assuming your 1/4" length is only a reference to the trunnels you describe......anyway, in thinking about the two methods I have thought about, the first one started to seem very unrealistic, considering the depth of the notch I would have to carve - your method puts me in mind of a strategy that might work....

 

Thanks once again! Much appreciated - don't know what I'd do without this forum

hamilton

[druxey]

Your query about the ends of the sweep blades: these were bound in thin metal strapping for protection. The metal may or may not have been painted.

[hamilton]

Thanks Druxey!

hamilton