drtrap Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share #31 Posted March 12, 2013 Your Snake is looking very good. The coppering is coming along nicely as well. Have you considered using a dremel with a high speed metal cutting disk to cut the extra copper off? Many times I look to grasp my Dremel but always I'm affraid to use it on such delicate structures... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share #32 Posted March 12, 2013 (edited) I'm very happy to see that at least two other Snake builds are already "ahead" of me... Though I started my Snake many months ago, my professional obligations do not enable me to work every day. The good thing of that is to learn better and avoid building mismatches watching my mates relative progress.. PS: Norman, can you help me to find again your Snake build? Edited March 13, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share #33 Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) A couple of pics just as a debate on how to close/terminate the hull coppering... The matt varnish application how you can see is remarkable in contast to the former glossy black paint. Starboard featuring the "as a step" overlaping process against the portside "in level" tiles. Edited March 13, 2013 by Stergios JayCub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 13, 2013 Share #34 Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) my professional obligations do not enable me to work every day. I wish I was different!! I'm limited to maybe 1hr per evening, and that seems to be 45mins staring at things! Seriously, the coppering looks very nice, looks like you are getting very close to the end now. Edited March 13, 2013 by Beef Wellington Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #35 Posted April 1, 2013 Coppering in progress... Have you realized any signs of copper corrosion or oxidation as time goes by? I keep in mind that you have'nt used any kind of varnish to protect it, so I wonder about the general appearance of the tiles with time! Thank you, all. Stergios Jobbie, JayCub and tuciship 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted April 1, 2013 Share #36 Posted April 1, 2013 Hi Stergios, nice to see an update, looking very nice. I smiled looking at your picture at all the copper plate cuts offs on your work mat, I'm still finding these on the floor! Yes, the plates will oxidize/tarnish over time. I think acid in skin oils speed up this process which was why I did a final clean to make finish consistent as fingerprints had become quite noticeable in places. I quite like the look of the tarnished metal as it lends a sense of age, but as always its down to personal preference. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted April 1, 2013 Share #37 Posted April 1, 2013 I am affraid my Snake build has go into cyberspace it was deleted when the site crashed unfortuneately, I am not sure I have all of ther pics in a handy place but I do intendten trying to post them all again when I have time - applies to all of my builds. Try using a sharp pair of sisscors to cut the plates rather than a Dremel that seems a real heavy weight tool and it wont be as accurate! Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #38 Posted April 1, 2013 Hi Stergios, nice to see an update, looking very nice. I smiled looking at your picture at all the copper plate cuts offs on your work mat, I'm still finding these on the floor! Yes, the plates will oxidize/tarnish over time. I think acid in skin oils speed up this process which was why I did a final clean to make finish consistent as fingerprints had become quite noticeable in places. I quite like the look of the tarnished metal as it lends a sense of age, but as always its down to personal preference. Hi Jason and thanks. I don;t remember quite well...Have you used anything else except the polishing liquid/paste (Noxon, I think...)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted April 1, 2013 Share #39 Posted April 1, 2013 Nothing else, just the Noxon to clean. Worked well for me but I'm sure there are lots of similar products. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted April 1, 2013 Share #40 Posted April 1, 2013 I just cleaned the plates with some fine wire wool and a little solvent, polish of any kind will leave unsightly residues in the plate gaps. If you lacquer the copper after a time it will tarnish in any small area where the lacquer is not perfect seen it so many times in brass fittings etc. I prefer to see the copper discolour naturally but in doing this you must remove all traces of an fingerprints as these will tarnish must faster and really leave unsightly marks - I know this all too very well from my days in the printed circuit industry as a quality manager. drtrap 1 Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #41 Posted April 1, 2013 I just cleaned the plates with some fine wire wool and a little solvent, polish of any kind will leave unsightly residues in the plate gaps. If you lacquer the copper after a time it will tarnish in any small area where the lacquer is not perfect seen it so many times in brass fittings etc. I prefer to see the copper discolour naturally but in doing this you must remove all traces of an fingerprints as these will tarnish must faster and really leave unsightly marks - I know this all too very well from my days in the printed circuit industry as a quality manager. Hi Norman and many thanks. Which kind o fsolvent did you use? I can suppose that I must be very careful with all those chemical-good standing with the copper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #42 Posted April 1, 2013 I just cleaned the plates with some fine wire wool and a little solvent, polish of any kind will leave unsightly residues in the plate gaps. If you lacquer the copper after a time it will tarnish in any small area where the lacquer is not perfect seen it so many times in brass fittings etc. I prefer to see the copper discolour naturally but in doing this you must remove all traces of an fingerprints as these will tarnish must faster and really leave unsightly marks - I know this all too very well from my days in the printed circuit industry as a quality manager. Norman, theoritically I was considering wool wire as a dangerous tool, because of possible scratches on the cooper tiles after use the finish with it... On the other hand polishing with paste leaves such unsightly debris as you say between (and on) the tiles. I'll test the wool wire in practice, trying to make clear first the nature of the solvent you have used. Waiting the brand or type of it, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted April 1, 2013 Share #43 Posted April 1, 2013 On the other hand polishing with paste leaves such unsightly debris as you say between (and on) the tiles. An old toothbrush and water very easily gets rid of any cleaner left between tiles. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted April 1, 2013 Share #44 Posted April 1, 2013 I used acetone - nail polish remover, wire wool used carefully wont scratch the copper that you would notice, just be carefull about leaving the odd strands caught in the copper. If you are worried about wirewool try a small piece of a scotchbrite pad, these are used commerically to clean circuitboards in processing. I still wouldnt use polish even using a tooth brush to remove the residues as you will be adding water which will be trapped behind the plates and you will stand a chain of getting water stains if it drips out. Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #45 Posted April 1, 2013 I used acetone - nail polish remover, wire wool used carefully wont scratch the copper that you would notice, just be carefull about leaving the odd strands caught in the copper. If you are worried about wirewool try a small piece of a scotchbrite pad, these are used commerically to clean circuitboards in processing. I still wouldnt use polish even using a tooth brush to remove the residues as you will be adding water which will be trapped behind the plates and you will stand a chain of getting water stains if it drips out. Thanks again Norman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #46 Posted April 1, 2013 Could you please help me with the pintles and gudgeons of the rudder ? I'm trying to locate these parts in the kit but is'nt easy as I can't find their reference number in the list... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share #47 Posted April 1, 2013 Could you please help me with the pintles and gudgeons of the rudder ? I'm trying to locate these parts in the kit but is'nt easy as I can't find their reference number in the list... Ok, got them!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share #48 Posted April 9, 2013 Mmmmm, two days since the last application of the polish cream and some corrosion tiles- spots make me feel at least uncomfortable. There is a noticeable difference by looking the copper's surface between those spots and the other, "healthy" coppering... I was ready to apply a metal varnish to "seal" the tiles but now I don't know what to do... Any advise, from anyone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted April 9, 2013 Share #49 Posted April 9, 2013 Do you have any photos Stergios so we can see what you are seeing? Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share #50 Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Jason, I'm still in work now, I'll do it asap. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanh Posted April 9, 2013 Share #51 Posted April 9, 2013 The fittings to mount the rudder consist of two white metal castings , ones an "L" casting and the second is another white metal boss thats held in place by a pinned brass P/E strap. It can be a bit fiddly to mount the rudder but from memory the parts are pretty clear in the model booklet. Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share #52 Posted April 10, 2013 Jason and friends this is what I mean... I'm fully disappointed for the moment, thinking to appy another layer of polish cream and in the same day to seal & protect the copper with two layers of varnish for metals. I do appreciate so much any help/suggestion, thanks again. Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted April 10, 2013 Share #53 Posted April 10, 2013 Did you use the polish on all the tiles? Whatever you do it's probably best to do across all the surface as that will get rid on inconsistencies. I know I used the cleaner even on areas that didn't really need it just ensure the fish was consistent. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share #54 Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Did you use the polish on all the tiles? Whatever you do it's probably best to do across all the surface as that will get rid on inconsistencies. I know I used the cleaner even on areas that didn't really need it just ensure the fish was consistent. Yes, I've applied the cream on all the surface just to create a unique and acceptable appearance. The point of concern is that (and why..?) there are two-speed corrosive tiles... Thanks Edited April 10, 2013 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share #55 Posted April 19, 2013 After all, one way or another, coppering marathon is finished... I've used as a final polish product a layer of brasso plus two additional coatings of metal varnish to protect it. I'm curious to see the short to mid term results... tuciship 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share #56 Posted May 2, 2013 Hello again! A lot of professional obligations during the last two months. Was like working in NHS ten years ago...... JayCub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share #57 Posted May 2, 2013 So many days later.... After a lot of reflection I was lost in about the black painted hull and the relative varnish coverage.... As I was'nt happy using the somewhat "glossy" touch of caldercraft's black colors (dull & metallic), now I can say that using the matt varnish of vallejo following the acrylic matt black of the same company, is the best combination in my opinion. tuciship and JayCub 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share #58 Posted May 2, 2013 Black pins... I always have them in stock. Pics before any kind of touch up... JayCub and tasmanian 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garward Posted May 2, 2013 Share #59 Posted May 2, 2013 If you use a varnish the varnish is more preferable to a covering of different parts of model, matt as you correctly speak. Quote Best regards, Garward Is under construction Montanes Ready models Golden Star Corsair San Francisco II Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron (second version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted May 2, 2013 Share #60 Posted May 2, 2013 Thats a nice looking rudder Stergios, glad you're back in the shipyard. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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