Vasa by Nautilus - Corel - 1628, scale 1:75

[CptNautilus]

Hello!

 

I've been reading this site for six months now, reading tips and tricks and looking at all the great pictures. Why? Simply because I received the Vasa kit (Corel) for Christmas and as I had never built any ship before, I really had to learn everything from scratch.

 

So, I have started building the Vasa since the middle of January 2014. I can only work on it about one hour every day, so the progress is slow, in particular as I have to learn along the way and I find myself scratching my head and scouting the Internet whenever I hit a new construction phase.

 

Anyway, I have been documenting the process dutifully by means of pictures from day one. So far, I only shared those pictures with my family and interested friends. I am now opening it to this forum. The pictures are stored on my Google+ account and should be visible from everybody by clicking on this link:

 

Vasa picture album

 

 

Usually, I add a few pictures everyday, if I have been able to make any progress. Feel free to add me to your Google+ circles and I'll make sure to add you to my Vasa circle. Also, you may leave comments here or directly on the album. When you add me, please make sure to tell me that's the Vasa you're interested in.

 

I have not written any comment so far. Only pictures. But they are very detailed. I have found that pictures were the most valuable asset when looking for a solution.

 

As I said, I am a beginner, and thus I made many mistakes along the way. Still, I am happy with what I have managed to do so far and I feel that my pictures might help those who will come after me.

 

Chapter 1: the frames

Chapter 2: Planking the hull, first layer

Chapter 3: Planking the stern

Chapter 4: Planking the hull, second layer

Chapter 5: Covering the door frames

Chapter 6: Planking the decks

Chapter 7: Stern galleries

Chapter 8: The support

Chapter 9: The beakhead and the keel

Chapter 10: The rudder

Chapter 11: The heads and the beakhead

Chapter 12: The handrails

Chapter 13: The davits

Chapter 14: Deck fittings (belaying pins, bits, doors and chains)

Chapter 15: Deck guns

Chapter 16: The boat

Chapter 17: Varnishing

Chapter 18: Port hole doors and false canons

Chapter 19: The decorations

Edited December 15, 2014 by Nautilus

[schnu]

Welcome on MSW, you started big, the Vasa is a real beauty, and no easy task (at least from what I can tell).

You have some real nice pictures, the GIFs are quite neat, it shows the progress in a unique way. The Planking looks well done at least to my eyes. I do have one question tho, do you know why some Vasa ships models are blue and others red? I didn`t find out an answer on google.

[CptNautilus]

 I do have one question tho, do you know why some Vasa ships models are blue and others red? I didn`t find out an answer on google.

 

 

Thanks for the welcome and the kind words.

 

As for your question, here is what I have found: The Vasa kit from Corel was made shortly after the Vasa was extirpated from the muddy bottom of Stockholm harbour. By then, little was known about its colours. They therefore based themselves on artist renditions of the ship, who painted her in various patterns of blue.

 

Later, archaeologists were able to find pigments in the wood of the Vasa and from them were able to deduce her true colours. It appeared that she was actually mainly red, along with a luxuriance of very vivid colours. The best vision of what the Vasa looked like is shown in the Vasa museum (which I was lucky to visit a few years ago) on a large scale model they built.

 

So, when I received this model, I immediately saw that the colours were not right.Still, I chose to keep the original blue colours, for two reasons:

 

1. I don't see myself painting all these tiny figures

2. I find the real colours too vivid to my taste. The model itself is not totally accurate either. So, what the hell... this ship is going to decorate our dining room for years and I prefer to have a nice-looking (for my 21th century tastes) model than an accurate but offensive-coloured one.

 

Here is a picture of this model

Edited October 27, 2014 by CptNautilus

[schnu]

Ah that explains it, thank you for the information. Surely the model will be more unique in blue, I find it an interesting colour scheme. After all a model must not only be historical accurate, it must also please the owner.

Edited July 10, 2014 by schnu

[CptNautilus]

Yesterday evening was a big psychological step as I put the sides of the beak on. It drastically changed the whole ship silhouette, something that does not happen so often. I expect that the next time such a change will happen is when I'll put the masts in, something that should not happen before a few months have passed...

 

 

Look at the pictures.

Edited November 7, 2014 by CptNautilus

[CptNautilus]

To make it more practical, I have partitioned the pictures into several "chapters", each describing one phase of the construction:

 

Chapter 1: the frames

Chapter 2: Planking the hull, first layer

Chapter 3: Planking the stern

Chapter 4: Planking the hull, second layer

Chapter 5: Covering the door frames

 

I'll post more chapters later. I'm currently working on the deck bits.

[GuntherMT]

Looking very nice.  I like the stitching together of the pictures to form a progress 'movie'. 

[JanV]

Hello,

 

I noticed your log today for the first time

good to see that another Corel Vasa builder started.

first impression of the pictures is very good.

[CptNautilus]

Hello,

 

I noticed your log today for the first time

good to see that another Corel Vasa builder started.

first impression of the pictures is very good.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm following on your steps, learning from your great pictures how to do things and anticipate future problems. As this is my first attempt at modelling, I'm learning on the way.

[CptNautilus]

Chapter 6: Planking the decks

Chapter 7: Stern galleries

Chapter 8: The support

Chapter 9: The beakhead and the keel

Chapter 10: The rudder

[CptNautilus]

Chapter 11: The heads and the beakhead

Chapter 12: The handrails

Chapter 13: The davits

 

I am currently working on the fittings of the main deck. More pictures soon.

[CptNautilus]

I am done with the fittings of the main deck and I am know working on its guns.

 

Chapter 14: Deck fittings (belaying pins, bits, doors and chains)

 

Edited November 7, 2014 by CptNautilus

[CptNautilus]

I have completed the deck gun carriages and portholes. Working on the tender now.

 

Chapter 15: Deck guns

 

Edited November 7, 2014 by CptNautilus

[CptNautilus]

I have now finished the tender. It was probably the last time I had to curve planks with steam.

 

Chapter 16: Tender

 

 

I have started working on the portholes. 48 of those tiny pieces to make and my first contact with rope.

 

At some point in the process, when I can work with open windows, I'm going to varnish the hull.

Edited November 7, 2014 by CptNautilus

[schnu]

I like the colour of the boat, what wood is it made of?

[CptNautilus]

I like the colour of the boat, what wood is it made of?

 

The planking is made of walnut. The inside, I'm not sure but probably limetree.

[schnu]

The boat looks great. Is it planmed to give him rams or a rudder?

[CptNautilus]

The boat looks great. Is it planmed to give him rams or a rudder?

I don't think so. The boat is meant to be stored on the main deck and I don't think they let the oars and rudder on when not it use. Also, I might already have some difficulty to fit it between the main mast and the capstan and a rudder would only make it harder.

[CptNautilus]

Chapter 17: Varnishing

Edited November 10, 2014 by CptNautilus

[CptNautilus]

Chapter 18: Port hole doors and false canon

 

The larboard side is complete, all hands to starboard!

 

[CptNautilus]

  Starboard portholes completed too (photos on the same link as above). I have no begun with the ornaments.

 

 

  About those, I have a question. I have found that the hardest part was separating the little figures from their base. What is the best method to do it without breaking their legs?

Edited December 12, 2014 by Nautilus

[Salty Sea Dog]

A cut-off wheel in a Dremel might work well.

[md1400cs]

Best idea I have found after breaking several

 

Please excuse the photo of my example on your build log, but it was only intended as a quick way of explaning

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Edited November 18, 2014 by md1400cs

[CptNautilus]

Best idea I have found after breaking several

 

Please excuse the photo of my example on your build log, but it was only intended as a quick way of explaning

 

Regards,

 

Michael

 

You mean that you are sawing them off the base, correct?

[CptNautilus]

A cut-off wheel in a Dremel might work well.

I have tried with good success so far. I did not cut all the way through the base but about half of it. Then, using flat pliers I have twisted it. The base was now weakened in the right spot and broke just under the feet of the figures. I then removed the last bit with cutting pliers.

[md1400cs]

Yes using that type of saw. Be prepared to use many blades (:-( they get dull very quickly.

[edmay]

Hello Capt, Welcome to this great informative site,thank you for your most detailed log in pictures,it will surely be most appreciated, Edwin

[CptNautilus]

Hello Capt, Welcome to this great informative site,thank you for your most detailed log in pictures,it will surely be most appreciated, Edwin

 

Thank you for your kind comments.

 

Indeed, I'm posting much more pictures than words. That's in part because what I have found mostly useful in other's logs are the pictures, looking for details that are not so well presented in the plans or in the building book.

[CptNautilus]

Some details about how I cut the figures from their base:

 

First I use my Dremel with that circular saw to cut to about half the width of the metal.

 

 

Then I break it with pliers.

 

 

I remove the last protruding chips with cutting pliers.

[Salty Sea Dog]

Wow - I haven't seen a cut-off wheel like that one before. The ones I've used are the wafer-thin reddish brown ceramic ones. You get great control with them because of the very thin kerf.