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About fmodajr

  • Birthday 03/26/1961

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  1. I agree. Beautiful model Michael! I look forward to following your new build. congrats! Frank
  2. Very nice! do agree with the others. Syren rope is the best that I’ve found! frank
  3. Michael and Mark (Hubac's Historian), Thank you both for visiting and your kind words. Appreciated. Metal working is not my strong point. Much prefer working with wood! Glad I tackled this section now. Frank
  4. Hello, Moving on from the bow area for a while, I decided to tackle the placement of the chain plates for the main mast shrouds. First step was to take the brass etched pieces for the plates and bend them to the contour of the lower section of the hull. Next, I blackened or antiqued the brass chain plates, the ring on top, the chain, and the toggles. The chain plates are nailed to the hull. A larger ring is attached to the top of the formed chain plate and the chain links are attached to this ring. Then the chain passes thru the deck slots made earlier and finally fastened to the toggles. So, note to myself! Next time I cutout slots for chain links to pass thru, it would be a good idea to make sure the slots are wide enough for the chain links! LOL! I can't believe I never checked. Luckily, the slots were just wide enough. There are six shroud lines on each side that are rigged to the mainmast. There are 8 slots and toggles. The 4th slot from the left is rigged much longer and goes up to other areas of the mainmast yard. The last slot to the right is the same length as the rest, but is for other rigging lines. View of Chain plates under deck. I noticed from this photo that I have some touch up blue and red painting to do. See green arrows. View of finished assembly Now, I will be moving back to installing the 5 cannon and finishing the upper deck above the cannon. Thanks again for the "Likes" and for stopping by. Frank
  5. Hi Clark, Thanks for stopping by. Yes, in my opinion, if I installed the canon before the bow planking, I would probably have knocked them off while sanding, staining, and adding the fittings of my latest post. That is why I waited. I am now free to install the cannon, before finishing the upper platform above the canon. I will be installing them soon. Thanks, Frank
  6. Hello, I continued on with some more work in the bow area. First I installed the long curved trim piece on each side of the bow planking. It was a pain trying to get the curves right from the tip of the bow all the way back to the cannon face. I was able to soak the wood and then heat it up with a curling iron for help on the bends. On both sides of the bow stem, where I installed the photo etch pieces, I had to add 2 strips of 1mm by 1mm wood to continue forward the trim pieces I had added earlier in the build. Next was adding the iron bands to the deck and adding the nails. I antiqued the bands and nails, which were supplied in the kit as brass photo etched pieces. Small railings are added to each side. First the slots were milled then the pieces were soaked and heated to create a slight curve, in order to follow the curve of the deck Railings attached to the deck A small 1 mm by 2 mm trim strip added to the back edge Followed by 2 knee pieces, cut and painted Finally, 2 catheads are made, along with the sheaves, and added to the deck with metal bands. Now to move on to other parts of the ship model! Thanks for visiting, Frank
  7. Only one side left to do! Lol! From the first photo, it looks like you got the curve of the supports perfectly. Nice job Clark! Frank
  8. Hi Michael, Thanks for stopping by! The Corel plan bow patterns were very accurate. So cutting the planks to the patterns had me doing very little tweaking. The hard part was gluing tiny strips of black construction paper to the edges of the different shapes! Glad that section is over! Frank
  9. The next step will be to add the edge trim pieces to the deck sides and begin to add the deck fittings. Thanks for stopping by, Frank
  10. Starting work on the bow area. I worked on the dry brushing, following the suggestions of grandpa Phil, (thank you!!) and I was able to remove some of the shine from the etchings. It went pretty well, with only a couple of tiny areas of the gold getting on the colored background. The first etching attached to the front face The etchings attached to both sides of the bow stem Here is a photo of the completed bow area deck planking (stained, but not sealed yet). After this photo, I will show how I ended up here. I cutout the forms from the plans and glued them to strips of the Eastern White Pine (the same wood I have been using for the other decks). I ground the strips to 1 MM thick. After cutting and shaping each piece, I had to individually glue thin strips of black paper to simulate the caulking. Center piece ready to attach to deck I worked from the center towards the edges
  11. Nice fixture for the most critical part of the build!! Frank
  12. Andre, excellent attention to detail! very nice! Frank
  13. Thanks for the kind words! Very helpful people in this forum. So, you have your next project picked out? Is it the Viking model? Frank
  14. Grandpa Phil, Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. Appreciated! I will give this a try using the “Imperial Gold” I have. My goal is to remove the shinyness of the brass. I will post my results soon. Thanks again. This is all new to me! Frank

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