Endeavour J-Class by jdbradford - Amati - 1/80

[jdbradford]

!!!Correction to the scale  1:80 is what it should have been.  Sorry for the confusion.!!!

 

Well, I am finally starting my build log.  After much help from Richard, Dave, Floyd and others, I have my planking started.  I won't post the pictures of the materials as others have already done that, and I am past that point anyway.

 

I did build the boom and mast to start as per the instructions.  As we have seen in the other logs, they are not used at this time in the project anyway.  I also have one coat of flat white paint on them.  I must say again, the hinge that is nailed to the mast end of the boom was a pain for me.

 

In the mast drawing, it appears that the measurement listed to the first ring of 188mm is wrong.  It is no more than about 20 mm above where the boom hinge is attached.  I just used the drawing to lay it out.  I also did not get the holes as I would have liked.  I need a small drill press and a jig to hold the item in the correct position.

[jdbradford]

I followed this part up about a week later with the planking.

 

I could not tell from the directions where to start, it appears in the middle, but I did as Dave and started at the deck line, and then worked my way down as you can see from the pictures.

 

If you have any suggestions, let me know please.

[jdbradford]

I finished the first layer of planking on the bow section, except for sanding and cleanup.

[schnu]

looks good, Its interesting how the planking isn t done in whole strips, as with other models, is it a double planking or single planking kit?

[jdbradford]

It is double planked.  There are 2 other logs I have found on this model.

[Desert_Sailor]

Built this several years back

 

I used double planking with the supplied mahogany veneer for the second layer.

Used a 3 plank overlap pattern with the main plank 10ft  long ( in scale).

 

then some urethane to finish the surface..  

 

 

[jdbradford]

Very nice Sailor!

How hard were the sails to make and hang?

Edited August 9, 2014 by jdbradford

[jdbradford]

I finished the 1st planking and cut excess to the keel.  Then I removed the pins holding the planking.  Here are a few shots of the boat.

[jdbradford]

After a good finish sanding on the 1st planking, I have started the 2nd planking of the hull.

 

Any tips or suggestions?

[dgbot]

If possible find some pictures that show the planking on this type of hull.  Other than following the basic rules of planking I would advice laying out some battens so you can visualize the way you want it to look.

David B

[jdbradford]

I was not expecting the thin mahogany planks to twist and try to pull away from the hull like it did.  I should have tried bending them some.

 

I am not sure how to use a bender, I have the ones shaped like pliers.

[dgbot]

What you have sounds like a crimper.  It crimps the wood with little breaks.  For the veneer you are working with you can soak them in a container of hot water for a few minutes then tack them to the hull until they dry.  I have also made a fixture with the curve I want and clamped the plank to the fixture. If your wife has an iron take a wet towel and put the wood in it cover and run the iron at the highest setting over the towel.  This will steam the plank making it pliable.  Then tack it to the hull until dry.  On the full sized vessels they used a steam box to do the same thing.

David B

[vintagesailordave]

Looking good Jeff. 

 

The recommendation to soak the plank and apply it to the hull to dry in a compliant curve is a good one. The plank will comply nicely without putting a lot of stress into the hull.

 

Another approach is to get a piece of 1/ 2 or 3/4 inch copper pipe, clamp it in your vise and insert a propane torch. When the pipe gets hot you can bend a wet plank by working it over the hot pipe. Takes a little practice, but it's an effective way to steam planks.

 

Dave Querin

[jdbradford]

That is a great idea.  I have my mother and wife looking for an old steam iron.  More bad news, the mahogany strips are .5mm x 3mm so after some sanding, they begin to get so thin it started to flake off.  I had to place some patches of strip in.  I may end up painting the entire hull.  I have finished gluing the decking and will post those pictures tomorrow.

[dgbot]

That is one of the drawbacks to using mahogony.  Could you use something else?

David B

[jdbradford]

I most likely will use something else on my next project.

[jdbradford]

I finished the decking and at the suggestion of my mentor from NRG, Dave Querin, I built a stand to better hold the model.  My Panavise was deforming the wood some.

[jdbradford]

I do not like how the 2nd planking turned out.  The plans discuss painting the entire hull and I am hoping for a few suggestions.  It says to use a spray on filler, I wonder if it means a primer.  But, the plans are not clear as to what to use.  I need a better finish on the hull before I do anything else.

 

Thanks

[schnu]

If you aren`t happy with the second planking, you could rip it off and start again, although that would be a lot of work. If you have some holes in the planking where you see the first layer you could sand of spare planks, put a drop of glue (careful though which you use, test it first on some scrap pieces, if you stain the wood the glue might cause problems) and put the sawdust in the hole. Another way would be to take planks rests and slip them in between planks that have some distance and carefully sanding off the inserted plank to the level of the hull.

[dgbot]

If you plan on painting.  Use a primer first and this will also highlight any errors. Sand everything smooth. Then paint the color you want.

David B

[jdbradford]

I primed, sanded, primed yesterday and started the blue paint today, with a light sanding and 2nd coat.  I am not displeased with the way it looks.  Pics later this week.  Thanks all

[vintagesailordave]

Hi Jeff

looking forward to seeing your progress photos.

 

If you aren't totally satisfied with the results of your paint job you can try what I do for paint prep on my RC sailboats. After the first coat of paint, if I still have bad spots I re-sand until I'm almost back to bare wood. Then I go back and re-fill any low spots with red body filler from the automotive parts store. Once it cures I sand it back and re- prime to seal the new filler. Then go back to paint. A bit tedious but usually get a very nice finish.

[jdbradford]

My camera was acting up so I had to wait until today to get more pics uploaded.

 

I have painted the hull and finished the deck furniture.  I had to learn how to strop the rigging blocks, but got them done as well.  A few construction accidents at the shipyard and I will have to touch up the boat some.

 

I am finishing painting of the mast and boom today and will start rigging later.

 

Jeff

[jdbradford]

The rest of the pictures with stropping blocks attached.

[dgbot]

You are really getting there.

David B

[jdbradford]

David,

Did you paint your Binnacle?  It is way small. LOL  What about the brass ring at the bottom?

Jeff

[LMDAVE]

For the center stripe I used left over walnut and double stacked it, I saw you write about have bleed through from staining, that would have prevented the need for staining.

[jdbradford]

That would have worked.  I wish I thought of it. LOL

 

Man, I hate painting the cleats.  If they are supposed to be wood cleats, then that is what should be in the kit, not this crappy lead blob, with flashing all over and misshapen.

 

The brass handles on the pump are a pain as well.

 

Maybe I will have lots of spare parts when I get older.

[dgbot]

Unfortunately some companies will use either plastic or pot metal for many of their fittings.  This is to cut down on costs.  The bad thing about it is the casting are poorly made so you cannot even get the dimensions.

David B